**PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION**
In this video we show you the steps to replace the steering rack on your 3rd Generation 4runner. While this video is done on a Toyota 4runner, the steps and procedures we use could also help you with your particular vehicle.
**The whole process we did to get the outer tie rods more evenly adjusted was only because the last mechanic who installed the steering rack didn’t do it right. We wanted to have enough outer tie rod adjustment so the alignment shop would have more to work with to get the toe correct. If your tie rods have fairly equal adjustment (threads showing) on both side, all you have to do is make match marks and then get the tie rods onto the new steering rack in the same position.
**When we were disconnecting the power steering lines from the rack, we show using plugs to stop the flow of ATF out of lines. I don’t think this is a necessary step because it’s probably best to get as much of the old fluid out and replace it with new fluid.
** 10/20/17 – For the final adjustment of the steering wheel at the end of the video, i just learned of an easier way to accomplish this. Instead of disconnecting the rag joint, just loosen the upper and lower pinch bolts and slide the entire rag joint up the steering shaft until the lower rag joint clears the steering rack splined gear. Now have someone turn the steering wheel straight and set it back down onto the steering rack gear. When we made this video, I wasn’t sure you could slide the whole rag joint up high enough on the steering shaft to clear the splines on the steering rack. I thought I would need some manipulation of the steering shaft pushing it out of the way so I could slide the lower half of the rag joint up and off of the steering rack splines. Using this technique will save you some time.
**PARTS**
*Toyota Steering Rack #44250-35042
https://amzn.to/36qvdmT
*Toyota Steering Rack Grommet #45517-35010
https://amzn.to/2L5h2ex
*Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic ATF (I now use this in my auto trans and power steering system)
https://amzn.to/2Oaco0F
**HELPFUL TOOLS**
PLEASE SEE THE COMMENT WE PINNED WITH LINKS TO ALL THE TOOLS WE USED FOR THIS JOB.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
**Torque Specs
Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing Bracket Nut and Bolt – 19 ft-lbf
Front Stabilizer Bar End Link Top Nut – 14 ft-lbf
Tie Rod Castle Nut – 67 ft-lbf
Steering Rack Passenger Side Bushing Bracket Bolt and Nut – 123 ft-lbf
Steering Rack Middle Perpendicular Bolt – 123 ft-lbf
Steering Rack Driver Side Long Bolt – 141 ft-lbf
Intermediate Shaft #2 Pinch Bolts – 26 ft-lbf
Pressure Feed Tube – 26 ft-lbf (requires special flare nut wrench that connects to torque wrench that we don’t have)
Return Tube – 29 ft-lbf (requires special flare nut wrench that connects to torque wrench that we don’t have)
Wheel Lug Nuts – 85 ft-lbf
**Note – Can’t find torque specs for the rag joint bolts or intermediate shaft #2 bolts that connect the two halves of the joint together.
){kind=link}
TOOLS WE USED FOR THIS JOB
*6 Ton Jack Stands – (strong stands to support vehicle while you're working underneath it)
https://amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks – (nice heavy chocks that don't slip)
https://amzn.to/2mttRWp
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun – (strong gun that's great for removing wheel lug nuts and a host of other fasteners)
https://amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt Batteries
https://amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger
https://amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set – (nice set for removal of different size lug nuts)
https://amzn.to/33uatZt
*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) https://amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) https://amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) https://amzn.to/2m6kQ5y
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet – (great for speeding up the removal and reinstallation of fasteners)
https://amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)
https://amzn.to/2uoQlZs
*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
https://amzn.to/2HEFTpu
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
https://amzn.to/2uo2o9x
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
https://amzn.to/2OehCao
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
https://amzn.to/32WIh0M
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set – (very handy for multiple applications)
https://amzn.to/31x8BOo
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set – (awesome ratchets that will make your wrenching life easier)
https://amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
https://amzn.to/37iQjVt
*1/2" Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
https://amzn.to/2WfSTGD
*1/2” Drive Impact Swivel
https://amzn.to/2Kv2dBE
*Small Digital Caliper – (if you found your tie rods were also way off and needed to figure out how to get them in better alignment side to side)
https://amzn.to/2OfIgB4
*White Paint Pen – (for making match-marks for the outer tie rods)
https://amzn.to/34T8FLs
*Large Metric Wrench Set – (for disconnecting and tightening the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod)
https://amzn.to/2TCXLmY
*Knipex Diagonal Cutters – (to facilitate the removal of cotter pins and cutting off excess of new cotter pins)
https://amzn.to/300BRRE
*OTC Front End Service Kit – (great puller kit for disconnecting the tie rod and balljoint connections)
https://amzn.to/2LuisQc
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet – (awesome ratchet you'll fall in love with. The flex head capability and 120 click points of engagement make life easier)
https://amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set
https://amzn.to/330QjGh
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
https://amzn.to/35dKQwW
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set – (nice set. you might use a small one for prying the passenger side steering rack grommet bracket away from the cross member)
https://amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*1/2" Drive Breaker Bar – 24” Long – (you'll need one for breaking free that center bolt for the steering rack)
https://amzn.to/343Vcix
*Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set – (these makes disconnecting and retightening the power steering lines much easier)
https://amzn.to/32GoIdy
*Oil Drain Pan
https://amzn.to/2QK6kh9
*Silicone Plug Kit – (in case you also wanted to plug the fluid lines to lose less power steering fluid)
https://amzn.to/34Joap7
*Crowfoot Wrench Set – (to use with a torque wrench in case you wanted to get the power steering fluid lines to the exact torque spec)
https://amzn.to/362U9Bo
*Brake Cleaner – (to clean up parts before reassembly)
https://amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench – (nice affordable torque wrench for larger fasteners)
https://amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench – (nice affordable torque wrench for medium size fasteners)
https://amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*Cotter Pin Set – (for tie rod castle nuts)
https://amzn.to/2OoD38K
*Oil Funnel 2 Pack – (to refill power steering system)
https://amzn.to/37z6sG2
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
Thanks for this guide, which was a great assist to me for the rack replacement on my '04 Tacoma. While my Taco is pretty clean, the job was quite time consuming due to salt belt conditions; a few frozen fasteners led to new sway bar retainers and end-links, new PS pressure and return lines, and the requisite toiling beneath the rig – that was fun! This video helped me overcome those challenges, thanks again!
Hey Timmy, I’ve pretty much replaced everything in the front end besides the steering rack and the Lower control arms/bushings. Where do you recommend I start? Should I replace the lower control arms or just the bushings, or should I start at the steering rack. My 4Runner has 280,000 miles. Thanks for all hard work and videos that you guys put out!!
Can't tell you how helpful your videos are. I have a new rack I'm installing soon – THANK YOU.
Video is over 3 years old so you may or may not read this but if you do I'd want you to know that you're inspirational and deserve nothing but respect. Rare video with 0 profanity and 100% educational demonstration.
Thank you sir 🙂
Time. One last question about the supply and return fluid lines . You show they both have a 17 mm flare nut but the inner threads of the high pressure line seem to be of a different size (smaller diameter on the threaded portion. Can you confirm?
Timmy another great video. Quick question as i prepare for a replacement (original equipment is leaking at both bellows and bushings are shot) i see you installed a toyota rack; i found one by cardone for about $110 less. Do you have any experience with their products?
Thanks for the awesome video. Apparently I need a new steering rack so I needed to educate myself before I head to the repair shop. Now I see why the repair is going to be so expensive! Apparently I need new valve covers too. I love my sweet girl, she's been so good to me but I guess its time to give her some much needed care. Is there a tune up needed at this milestone?
Thanks!
Mary
2000 4runner
175k (just breaking her in)
Hey great video again. I screenshot the book you were looking at in the video and the torq specs for the steering rack long bolt was 96 I believe. But in your description and video you said/put 141. Which is correct?
Is this the same for a 97 tacoma? one of my Tie rods or at least the area is leaking barely through the boot. What should I look into, should I just get a new rack? or is there something I can do to stop the leak, I know I need to replace one of the tie rods
I love how the engineers idiot proof the lines.
California cars are so easy to work on, salt and winter in Michigan have not been kind to my 4Runner
I'm having the rack on my 1995 Tacoma 4×4 (215k) replaced. There were only 3 racks left in the US via my dealer. OEM 44250-35010-84. I was able to get it shipped for $580, but I will get back $150 for the core. My guy is charging me $180 labor to do the work. Seems it never ends….
How much did the steering rack cost from Toyota
If I wanted center the steering wheel would I disconnect the two bolts at the rag joint or the one bolt below the rag joint where it connects to the spline of the steering rack? I seems like it would be the one bolt at the spline and then I would rotate the upper part of the shaft right or left one or more notches to center the steering wheel but, please let me know which one. Thank you.
Good job, I'll do the same just now 🙂
excellent video! at 25:25 my top right 19mm bolt for the passenger side U shaped bushing is completely blocked by those metal power steering lines?! every video have seen everyones are engineered out of the way?? so odd as mine is blocking it, can i remove the metal line from the steering rack without causing an issue to the power steering fluid or pressure?
Found that some plastic wrapped around the rack boot & some clear tubing w/ 1/2" ID (slipped it right over the steering fluid lines at the rack) helped prevent steering fluid all over the rack boot. Looks like I waited too long to do a steering fluid flush. My steering fluid reservoir had a hole in the screen!