**PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION**
This is part 1 of 3 parts for replacing the transmission on a 3rd Gen Toyota 4runner. In Part 1, we show you how to remove the shifters, remove the driveshafts, disconnect the electrical connections on the transfer case and finally unbolt the transfer case from the transmission and pull it out.
If you just wanted to pull the transfer case for whatever reason, this video shows you everything you need to do to remove it. For the reinstallation of the transfer case, you’ll have to consult Part 3 of this series.
**HELPFUL TOOLS**
**If you don’t see a tool you need listed below, here’s a master copy of Timmy’s suggested tools:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1TV08fumiXvyrb6yBMPl0gsp7UlcQEa9lHtqFNiZWOVI/edit?usp=sharing
*1/4″ and 3/8″ Flex Head Ratchet Set
https://amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*3/8″ Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
https://amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
https://amzn.to/2OehCao
*JIS Screwdriver – (better than a phillip screwdriver when working on Japanese motors)
https://amzn.to/31nlP0f
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet
https://amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)
https://amzn.to/2uoQlZs
*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
https://amzn.to/2HEFTpu
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
https://amzn.to/2uo2o9x
*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) https://amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) https://amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) https://amzn.to/2m6kQ5y
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set – (the most functional box end wrenches you’ll ever own)
https://amzn.to/31x8BOo
*Small Pick Tool Set – (nice for jobs like pulling up the shifter boot or helping release small hoses)
https://amzn.to/2MyN4AH
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers – (nice set with multiple uses like removing the shifter snap ring)
https://amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Knipex 4811J3 Snap Ring Pliers – (option to the needle nose pliers)
https://amzn.to/2p0t80G
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
https://amzn.to/35dKQwW
*1/2” Drive Breaker Bar – 18” Long – (lots of leverage for removing things like the transfer case fill and drain plugs) https://amzn.to/2O7HpCo
*Oil Drain Pan – (for draining the transfer case)
https://amzn.to/2QK6kh9
*Dewalt 1/2″ Drive Impact Gun – (powerful gun for removing lug nuts and other fasteners)
https://amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt Batteries
https://amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger
https://amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*1/2″ Drive Wobble Impact Extension Set – (wobble extensions give you a little more wiggle room to get sockets onto a fastener like the driveshaft bolts when you can’t get a straight shot getting the socket onto the bolt or nut) https://amzn.to/2VYERJj
*1/2″ Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
https://amzn.to/2WfSTGD
*Brake Cleaner – (to clean up driveshaft before making match-marks)
https://amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*White Paint Pen – (to make driveshaft match-marks)
https://amzn.to/34T8FLs
*Plastic Mallet – (to break free driveshaft to companion flange connections)
https://amzn.to/2CCOqVP
*6 Ton Jack Stands – (to safely support your rig while you’re working underneath it. For this job, having the rig as high as you can get it so you have plenty of room to work would be smart. So, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear.) https://amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches – (great set that offers you extra leverage) https://amzn.to/2oOhndL
*OTC Long Prybar Set – (Long set that gives you lots of leverage to apply a lot of force like getting the cross member free when the frame rails decide to flex out on you once you have one cross member out and are now removing the second cross member.)
https://amzn.to/2O7pWKZ
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set – (small to medium set for various things like holding the driveshaft yoke still while removing the bolts with a wrench) https://amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*1/2″ Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet – (great functional ratchet for larger size fasteners)
https://amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
https://amzn.to/35dKQwW
*Ratchet Straps – (to strap the transfer case and transmission to the jack so it’s secure)
https://amzn.to/2XoTLsI
*Harbor Freight 2000 lbs Transmission Jack – (really nice jack that’s relatively affordable. I’ve used this jack for many different jobs and not just for supporting a transmission and transfer case. I’ve used this to support aftermarket bumpers so we could have an easier time getting the bumper into position.) https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/transmission-jacks/2000-lbs-low-profile-transmission-jack-60240.html
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
PLEASE READ THIS PINNED COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION
**Instead of removing both cross members at the same time like we did, it would be better to keep the front cross member in place and just remove the rear cross member for the transfer case removal. By doing it this way, you won't have to resort to placing a 6 ton jack under the transmission to support it. Once you got the transfer case out, you can reposition your transmission jack under the transmission pan and then remove the cross member that supports the transmission.
what is the spline count for the torque converter?
Hey guys, will a 2000 4wd 4Runner transmission swap directly into a 2002 4runner?
I know there are differences in the transfer case and wasn’t sure if that was going to be problematic
So let me get this straight, sean purchased a remanufactured trans through Toyota and used his vin to get a exact match ? I called my local toyota for a quote and they said it would have to come from Japan and it would be OEM brand new. The guy didn’t say anything about a remanufactured option. Just curious and to be clear Toyota does the reman themselves and re sells it ? Or ?
Hey hey you only put that it's a third generation 4Runner you didn't mention if it's a two wheel or a four-wheel drive that does make a difference it's not even listed you should at least put that in there buddy because third generation spans between 96 to 2001 and they are a little bit different if it's a 2wd vs 4wd I'm just not seeing it listed anywhere..
Are we able to replace the A350F transmission to a A750F in the 3rd gen 2001?
Very nice tutorial. Well done guys.
I plan to replace my t-case, but is it necessary to get it empty (flush the oil) before ? Because I can't see the point of doing so.
Do you think this will work on a 2002 tacoma v6?
Man, Timmy, You are the MAN. I love your channel, the fact you reply, and you've helped me fix tons of things on my 3rd gen. She's almost to 400k and I love working on her. My girlfriend doesn't agree, but for me, fixing her is worth the time. Thank you so much for taking the time to create these. Merci, et Allons-y! ~Ty
Mannn I wish yall would have installed a Marlin Crawler TacoBox while you where in there!!
This could be an easy question for you. I have a new to me from my mom 00 4runner 2.7. very little highway driven. The driveshaft popped on me on the highway. The slip yoke on the output shaft was unfortunately really stuck. I banged in n out lol. Install new driveshaft. Now when the transfluid warms up it slips and needs constant high rpm to accelerate mildly. Ready to swap or rebuild after various gaskets on the engine. Way harder than my disco 2 lmao. I like the runner tho.
Are you a Toyota tech?
Hey Tim, I have the same problem you described in your video. Is it safe to drive? The transmission changes gear and drives well with no problems. It has a whining noise right now but goes like nothing is wrong. Its my only vehicle.
I love my Supercharger but I can tell my transmission didn't. Any recommendations how I should rebuild my Transmission?
Timmy! I have a couple questions, and I hope you’ll be able to help me. It’s a 1998 4Runner 4wd automatic with 325,000 miles. I’ve got a decent leak coming from the bell housing of my auto trans. I think it’s the input shaft seal…
Is it worth replacing that seal with the high mileage, or should I get a remanufactured unit instead? Or should I just leave it as it is? The fluid level IS stable for a couple months before needing refilling. And the only noise it makes is a VERY quiet whine in reverse…
Please advise, Timmy!