In this video I’ll show you how to replace the upper and lower ball joints, as well as the inner and outer tie rods on any IFS Toyota Truck or 4Runner from 1…
How To Replace Balljoints and Tie Rod Ends: IFS Toyota Trucks and 4Runners
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Thnx gotta have my honda element – those front ball joints replaced
great video man. I have a 95 t100 sr5. Appears to be the same
suspension/front end setup. I have a violent shimmy in my steering wheel
and pulsating brake pedal when braking. Very pronounced at higher speeds.
Warped rotors? And do you have a video on replacing them….IE removing the
hub assembly
The pulsing brake is probably rotors. The shimmy could be the same thing
but it could also be loose suspension parts or unbalanced tires. I do not
have a video showing how to replace the rotors but I would like to make one
when I replace mine.
Really appreciate you sharing this Video, Alexman! Need to do my
ball-joints & idler arm soon. – rad4runner@Yotatech.
50ft-lbs, not 50ft/lbs
Can You Make A Video On Replacing The Control Arm Bushing Both Upper And
Lower Please. I Have An 88 Hilux 22RE 4×4
I wanted peace of mind knowing the front end was all new. The original
parts didn’t have play but the boots were showing age. I have a more recent
video that shows how the Moog parts have held up. They are pretty poor
quality. I would suggest you buy OEM.
not trying to be a show off, but heres a tip. remove the steering arm and
the plate for the brake line, dangle out of the way take out the main nut
for each ball joint you do not need to remove caliper, just a 3/8 ratchet
and extension bust the nut right off. you can use a hammer smacking the
knuckle to release balljoints, or just a pickle fork + hammer.
Alex Man Why did you do this job did you have play in the steering wheel?
do you have any videos, can get a video, or send me any videos of replacing
the cv axles? I have an 86 toyota pickup with IFS and I need a video on how
to do it. Every dime counts these days so I would like to save money by
doing it by myself and learn something along the way. 🙂
The steering system on these trucks allows for a bit of movement under
normal conditions. To check for play, you need to check there there is no
movement between the the ball and socket of each joint.
Steering wheel shake can be caused by a few things. Tire balance, worn
steering/suspension parts, improper alignment, and even warped brake
rotors. Check all these to determine the cause.
Great video! I am going to be doing this myself soon on my 87′ runner soon
after I picked up all the parts. Question: did you completely disconnect
the brakes or just moved them out of the way and suspended them so not to
damage the brake lines? Since I’ll be doing this myself I was wanting to
avoid drafting help with bleeding the brakes. Thanks!
dude look on my channel i replace tie rod ends and i did not need any
pullers?? –
Just replaced my upper and lower ball joints on my 89 yota truck. I
couldn’t get the CV axle back in properly (well thought I did) but after a
short test drive I heard grinding… Any suggestions on how to properly put
it back correctly?
Hey man, your videos are helpful as I’m working on my 87 toyota pickup,
thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video very good couldnt have did it without u
I don’t have any videos of doing this repair. I sometimes make videos of
repairs that I don’t need, but usually only smaller jobs that don’t take
too much time. Unfortunately, replacing CV’s is a bit more labor intensive.
Go to yotatech dot com. They have plenty of info to help you out.
Short answer is your wheels will fall off.
I really appreciate this video – especially since I just replaced an upper
balljoint on my 1994 pickup, and didn’t take off the shock – until the very
end when I was tired of fighting with it – having seen this video first it
would it would have made my life a LOT easier. Thank you for the excellent
tutorial – very much appreciated.
If the tripod joint came apart it will only go back together one way.
Techincally you can twist it and get it back in incorrectly, but the boot
will be twisted severly and I doubt you would overlook that. Does it grind
all the time? When turning? Forward and reverse? With hubs locked or
unlocked? Check for obvious things rubbing from improper assembly.
In my experience on a stock truck, the uppers wear faster than the lowers.
Check each component for play, damage, or torn boots and replace as needed.
It’s best to do things in pairs left and right. Don’t skimp on these parts,
they hold the wheels on.
It’s possible to do it without pullers, but every situation is different. I
fought with one on the left side of the vehicle for about 10 minutes before
I said, “Screw it, I’m getting the puller.” The pullers just make it
easier. And since they don’t cost anything, I can’t see a reason not to use
them.
Dang it looks like your year is easier to work on
You’re correct. I should know better.
take the shock off the control arm and you have plenty of room to the pull
the balljoints out. upper nuts to be be removed and the lower bolts at the
same time so you can rotate the whole knuckle, it helps with another set of
hands. book time is like 2.5 each side, it can be done 1 hour each side 😉
“Bust that nut” lol
Hey man! Where did you get your ball joints from? I cant seem to find the
lower one with the grease nipple..
what will happen if the ball joints let go?
I got them from PartsGeek, Google them. Advance Auto also carries the same
parts for a slightly higher price, but if you ever have an issue, they are
right down the street and you don’t have to mess with shipping or sending
e-mails. I don’t recommend Moog balljoints. Keep an eye out in the coming
weeks for a video explaining why you should buy OEM Toyota parts.
Thank you for uploading this informative video.
with the money you saved by doing it yourself I hope you invested in a pry
bar. stop banging up your screwdrivers.
All I did was unbolt the caliper and hard line from the steering knuckly.
No need to bleed the brakes after you bolt it up. Just make sure you
depress the brake pedal a couple times after it’s all together to bring the
pads back up against the rotor.
at 300k i think I should replace the ball joints on my 4r, banging knock
when stopping hard at times and potholes……is it true the uppers wear
less than the bottoms and so can one just replace the bottom ones?
They upper ball joints had play in them and the boots for the tie rods were
torn. The lower ones were fine but I wanted to make an all-inclusive video.
I got a 1995 4×4 4runner..when Im driving straight the steering wheel
shakes back and forth. but when I take turns it stops..can the be worn Tie
rod ends?? .. BTW. nice 4runner! I also have a 1989 lifted 4runner
Great video! I am going to be diving into this project myself tomorrow, I
was curious to as why you also decided to replace your tie rod ends? Is it
something that you wanted to get around to while you had everything apart?
Just want to see if I should do mine while I am down there. Cheers!
thank’s so much for making this vid ,didnt look to hard to do .. nice
toyota’s you have i like the 4runner i want one now …
I recently changed the break pads..and noticed that when I move the spindle
side to side some of the tie rods move up and down ..could that be the
problem?
thanks for the video it help alot
Unfortunately for you, my control arm bushings are in good shape and not in
need of replacement. If I ever do need to make this repair, I will surely
post a video. In the meantime, I suggest you buy a service manual, read the
instructions that come with the new bushings, and inquire on online message
boards such as YotaTech. This will help you to understand what to do before
you start the job.