How to remove and Install a distributor from the 20R 22R 22RE Toyota engine series. You will still need to use a timing light after you are done to set and f…
How to Remove and Install a Toyota 20R 22R 22RE Distributor
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Great video. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you for your good explanation for the concepts,
keep it up
Well, put a new distributor on and she started up. My timing still a little
off but ill get that corrected. Agh that timing guide going to be a big
project.
Okay, yeah, the pin is not in the dist. drive gear. It’s basically fallen
down to the end of the distributor. Don’t worry about it if the pin is in
the pan, there’s a good screen on the oil pickup tube so it won’t get
sucked up. The broken passenger side guide really should be replaced as the
oil pressure chain tensioner can only take up so much slack in the system.
Go to Toyota and have them pull the schematic on the dist. I bet they can
get a pin. either that or go to a machine shop.
Thanks again Wheelie!
Go to my profile and watch the video, I only have one. It is of the
distributor drive gear missing the teeth on the distributor gear.
Wow, sounds like the pin got out and the distributor drive gear migrated up
the distributor shaft. I’ve never had one do that. Maybe someone tried to
rebuild the distributor and forgot to pin the drive gear down on the end of
the distributor? I’m not sure where you would get a replacement pin…may
have to go to Toyota to get that… If the pin fell out it may be in that
puddle of oil right below the distributor drive gear, or it might have
fallen down to the pan?
The distributor rotor fails to rotate when the engine is turned over. So I
suspected a broken timing chain. However, upon removing the valve cover the
timing chain is intact. By manually turning the crankshaft I can see the
timing chain turn, the camshaft functioning, and the distributor drive gear
rotating. I can see that the gear on the distributor is not engaged with
the rotating distributor drive gear. I can see a hole for a
“cotter/dowel/pin” to go, but no trace of the actual “pin.”
But, my distributor looks fine other than that (no mashed gears), so I was
hoping to be able re-install a new cotter/dowel/pin into my distributor and
save some cash. Think I could do that? Know how to ask for that part?
Thanks for your help!
Addition Information: My left, when facing the engine, timing chain stay is
snapped (also in the oil pan most likely). I thought that usually the right
side (which mine has an aftermarket metal stay) broke because that is the
side that carries the tension? How important is the slack side chain stay?
But like i said – the timing chain is rotating and at good tension so I
dont think that is the root problem of the distributor rotor failing to
rotate.
If your distributor isn’t spinning when the engine is cranked either: #1
your timing chain is broken or not connected to the crankshaft (does the
camshaft turn when you turn the crank? If not, the chain is broken) #2 The
cam timing gear or the distributor drive gear is broken or stripped. #3
there is something broken inside the distributor head. (Pull the
distributor and spin the drive gear and verify the rotor is spinning.)
In the video at 5:45 I’m demonstrating that you can have the distributor
installed, but the timing be 180 degree’s out of time and the way to see
that is the #1 cylinder valves are being actuated by the cam. At zero
degrees TDC, the valves should be fully closed (Rocker arms loose). I
really didn’t need to pull it, but I did to demonstrate if you had the
dist. out and rolled the engine how to check before putting the dist. back
in.
Great Vid! My truck wont start. I’m trying to diagnose a distributor rotor
that doesn’t spin when the engine is cranked.The timing belt is in good
condition. Why did you remove the distributor first before turning the
crankshaft pulley over by hand at about 5:45? If left in position, the
rotor on the distributor should just spin in ratio – correct?
Yeah, you can pull off all the EGR stuff with a stock carb. You just have
to make sure you seal any vacuum ports so you don’t have any leaks.
can you pull the egr crap with a stock carb? im pretty sure my timings off
my truck takes a lot of gas to start n then sounds like a v8 once started
@BigManlyMan4 Must be a slight casting issue. But yeah, if it runs fine…
Can you remove the distributor without pulling the cam gear on the new
head? What I would worry about is that things are too tight between the cam
and the dist gears and creating a bunch of wear.
Hey thanks, going to be doing this tomorrow, & even though I did it it
years ago, this was a very nice refresher course. Nicely done-
naw its not bent. I do have the cover off. It rolls over just fine, I think
there may be a small burr. But I pulled the plugs, and turned it over by
hand and its not whining or anything. I also did the cam break in without
issues. Its just weird. And everything slides into the old head fine.
Distributor goes right in. But on the new head its tight. Im using an
engnbldr head and he says its the first time hes ever heard of it. I think
its the casting. He said run it. So I am. I just dont like it.
I don’t have exact specs on the 21r motor, that was a japan only motor that
ended up getting shipped to other countries as a replacement motor. They
have slightly different specs than the 20R or 22R series engines.
@nico27004 You’ll have to see what the spec is for your year/engine. It
varies quite a bit between the years.
@ndchevy Yeah, I’m with you. It’s an internal COMBUSTION engine. For all
intents and purposes it’s an explosion in a confined space that expands
(piston moves down). I don’t lose sleep over the definition of
explosion…lol… All you have to remember on a 4 cycle engine is
“Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow” (Intake, Compression, Combustion, Exhaust) If you
can remember that you are well on your way to understading how an engine
works… 🙂
With the crank at 0 degrees (TDC on compression stroke) the first two
rocker arms near the front of the engine should be loose (meaning the both
the intake and exhaust valves are closed and the #1 piston is at the top of
the compression stroke). You *might* be off a tooth on the timing, but this
is kind of hard to diagnose on the net. The big give-away on “off a tooth”
is that the engine will run, but you will never be able to get the timing
adjusted right, you run out of adj. slot in the dist
hey is your engine for sale?
VERY HELPFUL. THANK YOU… I’m thinking I might be A tooth off … Dang it!!
Thanks so much for the video pete!
AWESOME VIDEO. You are a pro.Thank you, and Im used to just fixing things
myself. I think Im a tooth off, and you pointed out to put the rotor
straight up.It should work. My real problem is that someone installed a
header which blocked the air ports, which clogged up the entire EGR circut.
When installing a new weber 32/36 carb the other day I noticed when I
removed the egr that the hole was blocked by carbon.All ports plugged, is
that ok? do i have to dissassemble engine now?
thanks pete.. this a good video…..
@drfitnessnow If I had a running truck with a 22R series engine in it I
would…lol… I’ve got a project coming up that I’ll be doing lots of
videos as I work on it.
what should i set the timing to when its time to set it?
Hi i also have a 21r engine in Toyota Cressida do u know wats the timing
value or BTDC value recommended for these engines when timing ??
Great video this helped me a bunch THANKS, Dan
Hi, I have a 22re in my 84 corona, and the alternator belt snapped, could
you please tell me the easiest way to replace it, I don’t have Ac (removed)
so theres only the P/s belt now, thanks for you help