Every Toyota 22R series engine with the single row timing chain and plastic timing guides (1983~ish – 1995) that I have ever purchased with over 100000 mile…
Every Toyota 22R series engine with the single row timing chain and plastic timing guides (1983~ish – 1995) that I have ever purchased with over 100000 mile…
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Good information and steady camera work. Nice job. I shared this on
Yotatech forum in a timing chain discussion.
You’re comparing apples to oranges. Complete R&R on a 22R or RE valve cover
is a 10 minute job, tops. Most smart people who buy used cars (and aren’t
mechanics themselves) take them to a mechanic to have them checked out,
compression tested, etc. If you’re having a mechanic look at a 22R series
Toyota it’s no problem for them to pull the valve cover and look at the
guides. Not to mention, the condition of the valve train will speak VOLUMES
about the engine condition.
Just saying a of people would never consider taking part of the engine off
just to check a timing guide for a “potential” buyer. Its like asking can I
drop your oil pan and check your crank? I’d say never mind, its not for sale
You hear that come out of a seller’s mouth you might as well walk away
because they probably have something to hide. You buy one of these with
bad/broken guides you just bought an expensive grenade with a loose pin.
Yeah, “can I take your valve cover off and check your timing chain?” No,
the price is the price, take it or leave it
The mechanical gauge is directly into the intake. I tried to put the
mechanical one in the hole where the stock one is, but the copper end is to
big to fit in the hole. I will check the wiring, I have put 3 different
temperature sensors in to make sure it wasn’t that. Same reading between
all three, hot. Check the wiring, I get back wit ya ! Thanx
Is the mechanical gauge actually plugged directly into the coolant? It’s
not tapped off an existing Toyota sensor is it? If you’re mechanical gauge
is plugged directly into the coolant I would go by what it says and think
maybe the Toyota gauge is faulty. If the resistance on wire to the factory
gauge was being messed with it would give a false reading (bad connection,
grounding out, had a surge…?)
Well I’m at a lose, a month ago the truck was leaking oil out of the timing
cover. So I decided it was time to fix it and hey while I there a new
chain. Ever since then been having problems with this heat deal. The port
that was leading to the back of the cover on passenger side was clouged (
intake). So I cleaned the cover and put everything back together and it
runs hot. The stock temperature sensor runs at the 3/4 position, and my
mechanical gauge by the thermostat runs perfect at 180.
Thanx ! I give it a try
With the engine cold, put the heater control to the hot side, take the
radiator cap off, squeeze the lower radiator hose a few time to see if the
system burps. start the engine and let it warm up with the radiator cap
off. That coolant is flowing and once the engine is warm verify that you
are getting heat through the vents. If it persists in being hot, try
putting a backflush “T” into one of the heater core hoses at the high point
and then fill coolant until it comes out the top of the “T”
OK, got the timing set right without having to pull the cover. Runs a
little cooler but still gets hot. How can I get the air out. Just replaced
thermostat and all the heater hose. Thanx !
With the distributor set where it was when I started, the timing was
advanced about 25 degree s. I was able to retard the timing about 15 until
I ran out of adjustment on the base of the distributor. It still advanced
10 or so degrees. So it means that the cam is advanced 1 tooth. That would
most likely be the cause and solution. Thanx !
s/b *Lower the cam gear out of the chain” (Don’t drop the chain down into
the timing cover…)
If you’re distributor isn’t off a tooth in the engagement with the Cam
gear, then your chain is off one tooth most likely. You can fix that by
CAREFULLY removing the timing gear from the cam, then lower the cam in the
chain and rotate it one tooth in the direction you need and then rotate the
engine a little at the crank and put the gear and chain back on the
camshaft. It’s a pain in the ass, but can be done. Goes better if you get a
second pair of hands in there.
The hot running could be because you have a air bubble locking the coolant
circulation. Did you verify that the coolant is flowing through the
radiator once the engine is warm? As for the 20 degrees advanced, is that
with the distributor pushed all the way to the end of the adjustment slot?
Is it where you can’t get it to proper time no matter where you push it?
(Continued next comment…)
I have changed out the gaskets on my timing cover and checked the double
chain for stretch and it was good. I have got it back together and it s
running hot and the timing is advanced I do believe by 20 degree s. Is
there a way to fix the timing without pulling the cover off. Just by
accessing the valve cover. Just a hope full question.
And don’t forget to take out the hidden bolt in the puddle of oil under the
distributor drive gear that pins the head to the timing cover. I’ve seen
plenty of folks that forgot that one and snapped the timing cover trying to
force it off after they think they’ve removed all the bolts holding the
cover to the engine.
Good video. The secret to changing it without pulling the head is
disassembling your oil pump b4 pulling the timing cover, and reassembling
the oil pump AFTER the timing cover is back in place. Not a bad idea to
replace the whole oil pump but all you have to replace is the semi-round
O-ring on the pump. This allows enough play to disassemble/reassemble the
timing cover without trashing the head gasket. Just wanted to share how I
do it 😉
It can be difficult. Sometimes rolling the crank or the cam around a little
to help get it back on. I’ve had some tight ones before. Sometimes a second
set of hands can really help.
i just replaced the timing chain in bro-in laws Toyota. I was wondering if
you had a hard time getting the cam gear back on? the chain was SUPER
tight…? ( i just put a newer head on it two weeks ago…. and last week
the timing chain broke. anyways Ive got it all together now, but haven’t
started it yet wondering about the tightness of that chain???) (((
1983hacker@gmail.com )))
Most common Weber’s for the Toyota 22R are 32/36 DGV or DGAV and the 38
DGAS. It will be marked on the Weber. The best source on Weber and Toyota
that I’ve found is lcengineering(dot)com Look in their tech pages under
Carburetion. They have install guides specifically for Toyota.
I have some questions about a carb setup. To make it short story form. I
buddy bought a 1984 Plymouth horizon, and in the trunk still in the box
that it was shipped in was a holley based weber carb from what I was told.
I’m not familiar with looking up carbs to check the CFM and to figure out
if it will work on my 81 Yota 4×4. I can send picks if you can explain how
I can do it. Thanks much !
Toyota recommends 90-100K replacement, not because of the chain, but the
plastic guides. Even if the plastic guides are still intact, chain stretch
at 208K will be substantial. As the chain stretches, the teeth of the cam
and crank gears wear to match. I’d pull that thing out pronto and replace.
If the chain breaks while the engine is running it will probably break the
oil slinger casting in the timing cover.The 22R is a non-interference
engine so a broken chain won’t destroy your valve train.
It sounds to me like youve had some very bad luck there WheeliePete. Saying
that every 22re youve purchased with OVER 100k has had this issue. My
experiences are quite the opposite. Yes there is an increased chance of
this problem happening after 100k….or even 150k. Its varies too much
engine to engine even. My 90′ has 208k on it now and never had this problem
and has never been apart. The beauty of regular maintenance goes a long
way!!
I wouldn’t worry about it unless you start hearing something out of the
ordinary. It’s really pretty easy to pop the valve cover off and take a
quick look which tell you for sure. The service interval on the single row
chain is around 90,000 miles.
My 94 Pickup has 72,000 original miles and runs like a champ still. I’ve
known about this problem for awhile. Should I start looking out for it soon?
Yes. Pull the valve cover off and look down in there and see if that guide
is broken or missing (broke all the way off and fell to the oil pan…
Thank you Im buyinga 1988 4×4 with that knock from hell in 88 did they have
platic guides
They never did, they switched from steel to plastic in 1983-84 when the
went away from the dual row chain to the single row chain and then
continued that way until 1995 when the 2RZ and 3RZ replaced the 22R series
engines.
Great video. Do you know when they stopped making these with the plastic
guides?
Thank you for the tutorial, Helped me save time and a terrible experience
at a shop. Kudos to you. Your VIdeo helped with my built not bought 91
Supra 7 M-GTE. After a Drift session DS Timing belt guide broke, I thought
it was a rocker arm lifter or v-stem. Could in the future when able to make
a turbo video? It would bring in a legion of new viewers. Oh yeah why do
some mechanics act like customer service is not in the book? Thanks once
more AK3SUPRA
that’s why i love timing belt on toyota
Whoops, should read “let coolant into the oil”…