Here’s Why I Don’t Buy Toyota Branded Parts!! This Is The Aftermarket Brand I Buy For My Toyota!! #toyota #4Runner #mechanic
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Here’s the Moog Hub Assembly I used in this video: https://amzn.to/3O5yxeL
Here’s the Moog Lower Ball Joint I used in this video: https://amzn.to/4etD4Td
Here’s the video for the upper ball joint on the driver side: https://youtu.be/2Ioaaa19rEM?si=GD2FM71uGLSZfD5S
Here’s the video for the lower ball joint on the driver side: https://youtu.be/cNP9bH9BBd0?si=X6cy7E77wP87uM-3
Here’s the video for the knuckle and hub assembly on the driver side: https://youtu.be/sfHfEpvWRVU?si=-R2b539ZfUDGPVwQ
Here’s the video for the driver side CV Axle: https://youtu.be/XCgz1uS5MIo?si=OKJkW3b9iKiP-BUA
In this video I finish up the front passenger side HUB assembly and ball joints to match the driver side. I recently replaced, on the driver side, the cv axle, steering knuckle, hub assembly as well as upper and lower ball joints and some seals and new bolts for the lower ball joint bracket. After all that I couldn’t just leave the passenger side the way it was. I’m the type of person that needs both sides to be the same. This way I know exactly which part was installed, by whom and when. So, if there was ever an issue later on down the road I’ll certainly have a much better understanding of anything going on.
For parts, I chose Moog. This brand has been around for a while now and is trusted by many. Sure, I would’ve loved to stay with official Toyota branded parts but the price difference was just out of this world. Just not possible. So, I’m hoping the parts I chose will treat this 2005 4Runner well.
Enjoy.
***This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!***
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.
00:00 Introduction
00:36 Remove Old HUB
05:25 Install New HUB
07:40 Remove Lower Ball Joint
13:53 Install New Lower Ball Joint
15:15 Install New CV Axle Seal
16:10 Conclusion
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Logged in to down vote. Moog is trash, and the OEM lasted 20 years. These are wearable parts and every project you have makes it seem like the end of the world.
If you think Toyota parts are expensive, try sourcing any of the European car makers' parts. This video is horsesh!t.
Why the heck would you put that GARBAGE on a reliable Japanese vehicle when you can buy NSK on rock auto who’s supplies Toyota and it’s made in Japan!!! You make zero sense dude
I understand about using some aftermarket parts. I just replaced front lower control arms, struts, rear shocks and converted rear air suspension ti spring on my GX470 (basically a fancy 4th gen 4Runner) using OEM parts would have been thousands as well, especially if I would've kept air spring and adjustable shocks. I used KYB and the rear adjustable also stamped KYB and I spent less than $100 for both rear shocks.
As a former mechanic and a Toyota owner, I would disagree – Toyota parts are legendary for quality, and there is value to keeping everything OEM. I buy my parts from Toyota dealers online to save costs. That said, Moog parts are exceptional quality for aftermarket parts and I used them as replacements on my Chevy truck with great results.
That ball joint is too tall for that installation. There is too much gap between the spring clip and ball joint. These are the wrong ball joints.
I own Toyotas and the parts I buy depends. The OEM rear shocks failed at 60,000 miles on my RAV4. Nothing special there. So I replaced with made in Japan KYB shocks from Amazon for half the OEM price. Same car, I replaced the front brakes with OEM shoes and rotors. The original brakes ran well and lasted a good long time. On the other hand, I have two Accords. Both are over 12 years old but still run well. The Detroit Axle complete struts from Amazon have worked very well for an excellent price. The oldest Accord has run on the DTA struts since 2016, with no issues.
15:17 Is it just me or does that seal in your hands look awfully similar in size, shape & construction to the “unknown” seal – @ TimeMarker 5:58 – that came w/ the MOOG Hub Assembly.
I know you mentioned something along the lines of that seal not fitting on the CV side so if it really wasn’t identical to the “National Seal (Part#: 710573)” then I would be dumbstruck unable to think what MOOG wants users to do with it.
Moog used to be okay but now they've moved onto cheaper manufacturers. Better off with Sankei 555.
5:26 I found the problem, you're installing a Mazda part in a Toyota vehicle… noob!
I make bearings for a living and my company is an OEM supplier of hub bearings for Toyota, Honda, Ford, and Tesla. And is an OEM supplier of transmission and differential bearings for Ford and Honda.
In the description of this channel you will find that it says this channel is for entertainment purposes only and not to do what is done in these videos. As an ASE certified Master technician, I completely agree with that.
For information you should put a drop of oil on the dry antiseize what will activate it for final torque.
screw you. You said you would reveal the price difference at the end. I watched all your pontificating and at the end you did not reveal the prices but tried to "hook" us into watching your next video.
You lost a viewer because of all this leading the viewers to "tell me what you think" just to increase your algorithm and then try to get more viewership for your next video by a cheesy means.
Yes, you got a comment out of me but it is the last time. Was it worth it?
Aftermarket is cheaper??!?!
The information value is high with that one
Turn the wheel to expose the caliper bolts and its a piece of cake you have all the room in the world.
I bought a Harbor Freight impact wrench for these types of jobs.
The axle nut comes off easy with an impact gun, I have taken both of mine off this way to replace the wheel hubs. I can also use my steel wheel and remove the nut while the tire is down on the ground giving resistance to turning. I have a DeWalt electric impact and with it's 330 ft/lbs of removal torque is more than sufficient to remove any axle nut.