1993 Toyota Pickup Truck Starter Motor Repair

1993 Toyota Pickup Truck Starter Motor Repair

http://www.apdty.com/ Click the above link to find the starter motor for your vehicle. In this video we’ll show you how to replace a starter motor in a 1993 …

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suplex11 says:

i take it this is a 4 cylinder cuz i had no room in any direction to pull
out the starter in my 6

jumpinwired says:

+GallowaySackett I have an 85 Toyota pickup which is almost the same setup.
I use just a normal socket and ratchet for the top bolt. Leaning over the
front passenger fender, reach down to the starter under the intake and with
your head slightly tilted to your left, you should be able to see exactly
what you are doing without lifting the truck or pulling up on a curb. I’ve
used this same way numerous times because of starter issues and this seems
to be the best way I found. Just a little bit of a stretch for me. For the
bottom bolt, I think just used the same but with an extension or two.

ns671fr says:

this video actually worked and helped me today, dead on…each step. Thanks
bro.

Jon Ed says:

PART 3: it’s an option. Use your own judgement. Bearings, Bendix, etc.
could have problems as well and you wish you put in a starter. What I was
going to do. But again, holiday & no parts. So I went for it! Amazing
thing is this a Denso with 277,438 miles on it. The bearings and everything
else seem to still work fine. Anyway, sorry for the long story, and good
luck!

8dakota6 says:

Best built starters are DENSO.

zyoma77 says:

thank you very much guys! watching this video made everything so much
easier! i was working on my ’91 Toyota pickup & it’s very similar 🙂

mustardman4632 says:

Nice 2wd 22re ext cab he’s got there…

Jon Ed says:

PART 1: Worked on my 94/V6/MT/4WD today. Tools used are same. Remove tire,
mud flap, rubber under fender, metal fender guard. Top bolt threads toward
grill, bottom towards tailgate. Bottom has wiring harness bracket to deal
with no-one mentions. Starter WILL come out through the fender well
WITHOUT removing the heat shield or anything else. And it WILL go back the
same way. I just did it. I did this on a day when trusted rebuilders &
sellers were closed so I couldn’t get parts. PART 2 BELOW.

Jon Ed says:

PART 4: EDIT-I should have mentioned that you’ll have to move the wiring
harness & attached bracket up and to the left to get the starter out. No
biggie. Make sure to get the bracket on the BACK SIDE of the steel line
(Towards the tailgate) to get it on. You’ll see.

demnlordd666 says:

didn’t help me too much, but then again I wasn’t replacing the starter, I
was putting my transmission back in. I had to remove the starter to do so
and there is some wire set for the mid to rear of the truck w/ a metal
plate brace. trying to figure out which bolt held it where it was supposed
to go. and of course it got dark on me further obscuring my view. any how
nice vid, I like the view points you used so people could actually see what
you are doing! good job

FlavaDave916 says:

thank you thank you thank you

taitai907 says:

I’ve read that the “click only” issue is due to the starter not getting
enough juice from the battery possibly because of a worn out relay. I have
this issue and it’s a pain in the ass but I read from somewhere that
replacing the starter motor did not help. Instead focusing on the
connections between the battery and starter solved the problem.

Jon Ed says:

PART 2: So I got it out, dismantled it, and cleaned it up. The only thing
I could find is 1 contact worn really thin. The other one looked almost
like new??? No parts. 🙁 So I took a piece of “soft” copper and made a
duplicate. 🙂 Pretty easy really. And obviously there is wide
tolerance/wear in starter design. So I put it back together and voila’! It
cranks like a top. Material cost? About $00.10 (10 cents). THIS WON’T
ALWAYS WORK and I can’t recommend it for everyone. But PART 3 BELOW…

lafemmefatalle says:

Failure in automotive engineering. NO engineer should be allowed to design
ANYTHING until he/she has been a line mechanic for at least a year.
Remember when you could swap out a starter in 15 minutes?

Dan Haag says:

I have been trying for the last two days to change out a starter on an 86
toyota pickup and can’t find the bottom bolt much less get at it

TheRantingCabbie says:

Mine needs a biff with a hammer now and then to persuade it. I popped off a
small panel on the inner fender well and I see way more room to access it
than this model. Mine is actually a ’89 4Runner (22RE). Do you suppose it’s
because it’s a 4X4 and the body is mounted higher off the frame giving more
clearance? It looks to me like I have enough room to pull it out through
the side and not have to ferret it out the same way in this video. I hope
it goes this way.

8dakota6 says:

Rip off dealership will charge you $225 for a new starter and another $120
to install it. Fix it yourself for $15. If you’re not mechanically
inclined, well, you’re screwed.

Danny White says:

Thanks. Videos like this really help.

8dakota6 says:

The only thing that goes wrong with starters is the solenoid contacts
become worn and/or the solenoid plunger becomes worn and pitted. Both these
parts can be obtained for less than $15 and the repair is very simple to
do. Starter ball bearings rarely fail and the brushes never go bad. It is
nearly always a problem with the solenoid copper contacts (2). You are
wasting your money buying a starter especially if you get reamed at the
dealership. Do your self a favor and repair your own. Simple

DrMcelroy says:

Is your 86 a 4×4? Ive gotta replace the starter on my 95 4Runner and ive
never seen a starter that is such a bitch to get to. Everyone says the 2wds
are a piece of cake

freebirdfatcatmaddog says:

just wanted to add that if you have and automatic toy p/up you’ll find it
hard to take the starter out from the bottom because of the two trans.
cooler lines in the way, the way i did it was from the top- just take what
looks like a motor stableizer (spell) bar out located mid way on the
starter side of the engine that has two bolts and your golden–i’m no
mechanic but it worked for me

originalusername666 says:

hahaha thanks for the vid man it saved me from having to fish through
nodata.

Randy Morichika says:

good video! after watching this took only 10mins to change the starter on
my toyota. then another 10mins to take the new one out again because it was
defective!

northamericanmonster says:

awesome video. very helpful. taitai907 is correct, though — the fuse,
relay, and, on a lot of toyota trucks, “neutral start switch” can
contribute to the issue, so make sure to check those out before replacing
the starter. as the video says, though, if tapping the starter with a
hammer significantly improves its performance, then the starter needs to be
replaced, anyway.

Jason Hernandez says:

can you show how to replace center/drag link tie rod ends inner and outer
thanks

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

I will let him know you said so! Thanks.

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