Replacing the fork seals on a Suzuki GS500e.
Suzuki GS500 Fork Seal Replacement
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Replacing the fork seals on a Suzuki GS500e.
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Great video guys, is there any way you could elaborate on the threaded bar tool, how to make it? Big thanks
Best video ever. Thank you guys so much for this. Keep the the awesome work.
Excellent video, thank you.
Hello. Do you know if is it possible to change the fork oil of GS500 96′ model without removing the forks from the bike. I saw on that video that there is a bolt on the bottom of the fork, may be it will work only by removing the wheel.
Hello,
I want to know if the head of the piston is 5/8s or 14mm. Can anyone answer that ?
Im not sure how it works beyond that sorry.
Thanks Alex! That makes sense. Is this also a way of adjusting the stiffness in the shocks, by increasing or decreasing the air gap? I’m guessing a smaller air gap would increase the stiffness, correct?
yes the air gap is basically a way of measuring how much fork oil is in the fork. so if there is only 91mm of air space then there is a certain amount of oil in the fork.
Very thorough instructions. I’m new to working on motorcycles, so I’m not 100% sure about certain things. I was curious about “setting the air gap” What exactly is that measurement? Is it the space between the oil and the top of the inner tube?
This was really helpful, i’ve just noticed one of the seals on my GSF650 has started leaking so i’ll be taking that apart at the weekend I guess 😛
Why not loosen the Alan bolt first? That way you won’t need to make a tool for when you take the top off, it should all come out as one
5.37: is that the damper rod seat you are setting in place?
For a 96 Suzuki Banidt 600, a 3/4″-10 thread rod and nuts did the trick.
i just cant get that bottom bolt out. any tips?
its a 1.5 inch Inside Diameter on the PVC pipe and the bolt itself is 5/8ths the nuts are going to be 15/16ths or 7/8ths or whatever size nut fits on a 5/8ths OD threaded rod.
how to remove bolt from the piston??, I’ve got K4 F model
hi BaltimoreGS,
Great video, but i have a couple questions about the “custom” tools. what size threaded rod did you use? you say in the video it’s 5/8″ rob but it looks bigger. Also you said the PVC pipe is 1/2″ and again, it does not look like 1/2″. It may just be an optical illusion but some clarification would be great, thanks.
Does the fork seal spring go up are down
Thanks for the video! It’s very informative.
I’ve tried it on Suzuki Bandit GSF 400 1995. The “special tool” for this model has to have a 28 mm nut at the end (approximately). I used a 30 mm nut (M20) and grinded it to 28 mm.
Is it the same procedure for a 1980 GS1000 with air forks?
Never worked on a GN400 so I don’t know if the tool will work. I also don’t know the air gap but you could measure the fluid instead. Factory fill was 241mL of 15w oil according to a google search.
I’m going to attempt this on a 81 gn400, would the air gap be the same 91mm? And would that homemade tool work as well? Thanks Tom
Nice video!
Thanks for posting this, I’ll attempt to do this as I can’t stand the stock springs anymore >:(.
Spring down on a single spring seal.
No problem, glad it helped you! I can’t take credit for the tool though, that was devised by another gstwin.com forum member.
springs down diz!! if you go spring up you would have a real hard time seating your seal. i know, i tried it!
thanks for making a video that shows how to change your seals like a regular person. seems like most of the other how to videos aren’t clear in the steps, have bad audio, use tools the average person doesn’t have & blahblahblah. and the tool you made for holding the dampening rod in place, i think it may have saved my life! and for only 6 bucks. your tutorial is excellent. thanks!!!!!
When you install the fork oil seals, does the spring side go up or down? Mine are down, so I’m thinking it doesn’t matter?