In this video, the job is complete. I wanted to include the rest of the installatiion to finish this project up. In this video, an electrical wiring diagram is shown with an explanation of…
Suzuki Forenza Head Installation – Part 17 (We’re Done!)
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Okay my good sir, first off thank you for your videos and also to your
wife who demonstrates love and patience for her husband. I have kind of a
multi-part question/comment. Now first off I have a 2004 Forenza AT and I
have had this oily problem since i purchased it and even put a new gasket
and still did it. Before I replace it here are some facts for you. 1) my
engine was shaky (and even hiccuped strongly during cold starts) 2) my
spark plugs were almost filled with oil, I soaked up all the oil with shop
towels and then removed the spark plugs. They were all oily at the threads
but bone dry at the gaps themselves. I looked down into the engine and in
spark plug 1, 2, and 3 they were dry. Down in spark plug 4 section I can
see it oily and greasy. 3) I seem to be losing antifreeze from the
reservoir but i checked for leaks and can find none. When I start my car it
seems like my tailpipe fogs or sputters water, not drip but liiiight
sprinkle. 4) Radiator is brand new……… I’m wondering if I could have
a cracked head or gasket. I’m wondering if the engine specifications
regarding adding the two washers to the valve cover will fit my 2004
engine. ALSO, I have no idea where of how I check my transmission fluid. It
shifts fine but I’m the type that likes to check and know how my cars
doing. THANK YOU.
#1) Hi hartsell61. I just went back to the video and watched it. At 7:24, I
say 7.9 but didn’t say the unit of measure. Big duh on me. Then at 7:24 an
annotation comes up that says 7.9 gallons. This annotation that came from
me when I rendered the video. To remove that, I will have to reload the
video. So, instead I added an annotation from YouTube that says 7.9 Quarts
and NOT 7.9 Gallons. This is the annotation that may not show up in other
devices as I mentioned. For this reason, I would
#2) watch the videos on a computer instead. All annotations from YouTube
won’t show up and you could be missing points that I forgot to mention, or
as you see with the coolant capacity, an obvious mistake. And thanks for
the comment on how it helped you on changing the head gasket. Sounds like I
put enough detail in the videos to help folks out. Glad to hear that you
liked that.
I watched it on the iPhone and there was an annotation that said gallons
also. Maybe just the wrong one is showing up. At any rate thank you so much
for doing this video. It has helped me so many times throughout the process
of changing my head gasket. I only have to replace my motor mounts and
replace fluids then to test and I am sure there would be times I would have
been completely lost if not for your videos.
Yes, that is correct. There is an annotation in the video showing 7.9
quarts. If you watch the video on a computer, you will see this. But if you
watch it on an iPhone, Blu Ray player, etc. the annotations never show up.
Don’t know why YouTube doesn’t display the annotations.
Surely you mean 7.9 quarts not gallons on the coolant capacity.
Excellent work charger and I’m glad to hear that everything turned out with
the head. I’m glad that I could help you out.
Completed: No additional damage to the heads was found at the machine shop.
All together and running great. Thanks for all the help!!!
first minute of that video of where I show close-up views of the timing
marks on the sprockets. This will help you pick out the right mark by
looking at the sprockets. Hope that helps you out charger and it sounds
like you got lucky with the head. Let me know how it goes charger and I’m
sure you’ve got it now. If you do have a question, holler out.
Glad you got it figured out charger. Yes, I noticed that when I was
removing the sprockets and made special attention to it. If you need to
refer to what you’re saying, review Head Removal Part #4 from timeline 7:43
to 10:18. I show all of what you’re saying in this span. Also, at 10:18,
take a look at where the pins on the camshaft are located. This will also
help you get an idea of where to place the cams back into their bores.
Finally on the cylinder leak down test video, review the cont)…
Update: Just dropped the heads off at the machine shop. No noticeable
damage but they will double check. My mistake was that the exhaust sprocket
not only has two notches for the pin (could be used as either exhaust or
intake) but two timing marks. The sprocket had paint on the intake timing
mark (previous work…not me) and that is what I used even though I
properly used the exhaust pin. This caused the timing problem.
Leakdown and compression testing confirmed my worst fears. Not sure what i
did incorrect yet. #4 has no compression, other 3 between 150-160lbs. TDC
on #2 shows 40% leak yet 158 compression. Timing is most likely the issue
as you suggested. Taking apart again. Too much fun.
Man, I hate that for you charger. One thing about it is that you’re pretty
familiar with the engine now. You’ve probably got the torque specs
memorized, procedures to do, etc. So, it should go pretty quick when you
tear it down. Keep me informed of what you find out.
to one of the injector control wires. You should see the light flashing as
the engine is being turned over. Or you can place a screwdriver near the
base of the injector and listen through the handle. A stethoscope works
great also. But since the engine was running before the belt broke, I would
look closely at the timing marks on the belt to see how they look and I
pray for you that the valves didn’t get bent again. Holler out if you need
more advice.
Thank you very much for the great posting on the frenza head installation.
I do have one question. After finishing putting the engine back together I
could not get the engine to start. I have great fuel pressure to the fuel
rail and spark at all cylinders. I had no problem with the engine running
prior to the timing belt breaking. Do you have any idea what may be the
problem? Could the injectors be bad or not getting an electrical pulse? How
do I test?
I laid the injectors on the bench while getting the head work completed.
Could the injector hole rusted closed? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I guess anything is possible, but I would say it’s not likely. You could do
a test with a small 9V battery. Hook the injector up and pour a little
gasoline through the top while you pulse it on and off. Don’t leave the
battery hooked up or you could allow to much current to pass through the
injector winding. As you may know, all injectors are not designed to be
turned on fully. Just touch one of the wires off and on about every 1/2
second and you’ll be okay. Hope that helps you out.
Hi charger. Of course as you know with these engines that when a timing
belt breaks the valves get bent. And it sounds like you had the head work
done and got her back together. Since you have fuel pressure and spark, the
only thing that’s left is the timing of the engine. Are you sure that your
timing marks are aligned? And if not, it’s very possible that the valves
may have got bent again. If you’re sure of that, you can connect a test
light to B+ and the probe tip cont…)
Thanks Roman! I appreciate it and I’m glad that you like the video series.
As you know, if it wasn’t for the shooting of the video and talking so
much, I would have it this done long ago.
Hi wtfhellas. Thanks for the compliment on the spark plug replacement. As
far as the struts, mine were okay as I did check that out. I checked with
Monroe and they have all the struts, front and rear, but not as a quick
strut. It appears that you’ll have to disassemble the strut for part
replacement. And it looks like the bearing mount comes from the dealership.
You can get the boots and bumpers from RockAuto though along with struts.
In any event, this would be a baby job. Hope that helps!
stuzman52, thanks for the videos on the Forenza!! Very Helpful! Any updates
on the valve cover gasket (washer fix), how is it holding up? My gasket has
always leaked, never could figure it out. Just discovered my spark plugs
have taken on oil… that’s how I got here, a little research on the
subject.
Thank you very much and glad to help out.
like for you
thanks for the help i replaced the timing belt and tensioner on my
daughters 2005 forenza just by looking at your videos. thanks again
Hi J diaz. I’m glad that you liked the video and you’re quite welcomed.
Congratulations on the completion of your project. I’d probably want you to
work on my car more than some of these “professionals” out there. You are
very thorough and accurate. Thank you for making these videos; they are
very helpful when I have to work on that car.
what kindand size socket did you use on the valve cover bolts? I bought the
flat washers already and used 9 mm socket to take them off,It doesn’t feel
snug enough on the bolt head so I stopped for fear of stripping the
heads.those leaky VCG don’t look good .
Hi 350z. The wife has been driving the car to work everyday since March
which is a round trip of about 45 miles. I checked the valve cover
externally for leaks a couple of days ago, and it’s completely dry. I
didn’t pull the inspection cover off to check around the spark plug wells,
but I’m pretty sure they’re okay too. I’ll do an inspection on that
hopefully this weekend and get back with you. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Dave! I’m glad you liked the video. I wanted to see how the timing
belt was going to track and how the pointer moved on the tensioner before I
buttoned it up. I thought about running the engine with the cover off, but
felt like it would be okay since this test did alright.
Thank you very much!!!
That’s a cool view of the starter turning the cams, at 5:31. Watching the
starter motor turn the engine, and using some back of the envelope
calculations, it looks like the starter turns the crank over at about 160
RPM. The way you tested it, with everything open while using the starter,
seems better compared to just spinning the crank by hand.