Today we are replacin’ th’ water pump on th’ DF140 Suzuki. Most outboards today have a similar setup, so this applies to other brands also. Do it yourself an…
Today we are replacin’ th’ water pump on th’ DF140 Suzuki. Most outboards today have a similar setup, so this applies to other brands also. Do it yourself an…
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I try to service my Suzuki outboard 55, 1995 mod. I have turned out all the main bolts and the last one that is hidden at the back. The house is not moving at all. Is it more screws left? Can it be the gear axle that is stuck? Can I hammer to get it loosen?
I am i Norway and my local marina was not able to help me.
You might want to take a look at your zinc anodes, they may be dissolved.
On some outboards, the hose and ear muffs wont seal off well enough to make the pump pull a steady stream of water, I have a plastic tub that I sometimes place under the lower unit and fill with water up to the cavatation plate. Then you should get a good stream of water. Let me know if that works!
Great videos! Learnt a lot and saved even more! I have a 2 year old 115 Suzuki which I use for commercial fishing. Just ended the season and she has 2045 hrs on her. I noticed this white, hard debris, kinda looks like lime build up possibly, coming out of the pee hole. When I turn the engine off and open the hose fitting on the side, lots of debris comes out.. Any ideas??
I have changed my water pump. Pulled the lower unit several times to ensure proper impellor installment. It will only go on one way due to the key on the shaft. Problem is I am still not getting any thing more than a trickle form the pee hole. I have removed the peehole cap??? and still just a dribble with ears on hose. If I screw in water hose and force water it comes out fine. last impellor came apart and I found a couple piesces in the waterhose attachment port. Any suggestions?
I have only serviced a few large Suzuki outboards, mostly smaller ones, but I have a friend who has had a Suzuki 140 for over 4 years and has had no problems. I think they are great outboards. Thanks for watchin’!
After watching this video I’m pumped up to buy a boat already and do some maintenance on it, hey buddy I’m considering buying a boat with twin 225 suzuki outboards but since I havent seen many of them in the water can you tell me how good or bad this suzys are? I know mostly everyone has yamahas, everrudes, mercurys, etc… and before buying this one I wanna have a feedback from someone might know these engines, keep the good vids….. from Florida
Sounds like your shifter shaft is not engaged either at the top or bottom. it is splined to only go on one way, make sure you have the shift lever and the shifter shaft on the lower unit in the neutral position when you install the lower unit.
Hi D-Ray, Just re-installed the lower unit on my DF140 and now it won’t go in gear. Is there a trick to getting the shifter rod to line up when you put the lower unit back together? Also I still have the lower case and top cover off, does that have anything to do with it? Seemed to go together fine, didn’t bind or anything, help. Pat.
Let me know how it turns out.
Figured it out D-Ray. Lots of heat and sledge hammer. Use many screw drivers on both sides to creep an opening. Some PB to losen. Tilt the motor up use wood and hit the back of the unit not the fins. Should give eventually.
Have you ever snapped the bolt under the trim tab? If so what can I do?
G’Day D-Ray;
I’m in Australia…have aquired a 15ft aluminium boat that has a 50hp and a 9.9hp suzuki 1980 jobs. She’s been sitting a long time locked up in a shed….26yrs to be exact. Took covers off both motors, they look brand new. Decided to go ahead and replace impellers in both but am having trouble locating service manuals. Stumbled across your vid and am just wondering if you’ve worked on these. I can see the bolts to undo but what about any linkages etc.Is it similar to yr 140?
Thanks for watchin’!
D-Ray — YOU ARE AWESOME!!! you inspired me to do the whole spring service myself…
Plugs – Thermostat – oil change – Anodes/Block Zincs (not sure when they were done last – but WOW they were in rough shape) – impeller – friction plate – lower unit oil… Now to warm it up and check for leaks!! $200 for parts instead of $600 for the service – I’m a HAPPY man!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!
Great how to vid thanks
(continued) In one forum, several people said that they had decided not to replace it — one after talking to a Suzuki mechanic who confirmed that it is really unnecessary. There were follow up posts indicating that they had no problems after 100 hour’s of use. That’s what I’ve decided to do as well. Thanks again.
Thanks for getting back to me. I may have identified the wrong part on the diagram. The collar I am talking about is definitely above the lower unit. I diGoogled and found out more. Apparently there is a collar about midway down the drive shaft that is mainly put there to stablize the shaft. There are a number of reports of it crumbling and coming off with the shaft when pulling the lower unit. It’s a major hassle to replace. (continued)
Thanks for getting back to me. I may have identified the wrong part on the diagram. The collar I am talking about is definitely above the lower unit. I diGoogled and found out more. Apparently there is a collar about midway down the drive shaft that is mainly put there to stablize the shaft. There are a number of reports of it crumbling and coming off with the shaft when pulling the lower unit. It’s a major hassle to replace. (continued)
Sorry for takin’ so long to reply to your question, After lookin’ st the parts diagram, th’ collar you point out is actually below th’ water pump in th’ lower unit. It appears th’ driveshaft on th’ top end splines directly into th’ crankshaft. If there is a collar up there, it doesnt appear to be available seperately. I would consult with your local dealer and see if they can shed any light on that part for you. Let me know what you find out.
Great video. I’m in the middle of replacing the impeller on my DF140. BUT, when I pulled the lower unit, a collar around the drive shaft came off with it. This collar is cracked and clearly needs to be replaced. The service manual doesn’t cover this at all. Looking at Part Diag. 45 (transmission), I’m guessing it is part no. 57133-90J01. Any tricks for replacing this? Should I replace the drive shaft bearing, too? Can I just stick a replacement collar up there and reinstall the shaft? Tx.
Tracey, there are 4 anodes on th’ top end, 2 on th’ head and 2 on th’ regulator / rectifier. they are easy to find as they will be a small round cover with 1 or 2 6mm bolts on either side. just remove th’ small covers and th’ anodes are attached to them. Hope this is of some help.
Have a goodun’
D-Ray
Do you have any info on changing those zincs up on the head?
Youre right, I guess I was a little dislexic…….LOL!
Thanks for watchin’.
Nice vids D-Ray well done mate on the outboard services.
I think the motor is a DF140 not a FD140 unless they have made a new motor i dont know about .
Still awsome vid though 5 stars mate.
Thanks, Dont ya just love th’ feelin’ of bein’ able to fix stuff yourself? Glad th’ vid was helpful.
D-Ray , just changed out my impellor after watching the video, you rock!
Thanks for watchin’
Thanks mate!
Thanks, Man!
ya come back now ya hear.
Thanks, Jack. I enjoy makin’ these kinda videos. I explain some things too much, some of these vids started out about 30 min. long! LOL!
Thanks.
Thanks, Andy. Catch ya next time.
Thanks, Frank!
Cool, D-Ray! You explain everything well! You make it look easy! 🙂 Jack
great video
nice as always dray