Like cars? Check out my new web site! http://nukem384.blogspot.com/ Quick tutorial on how to change your brake pads and rotors on a Subaru WRX. STi is simila…
Like cars? Check out my new web site! http://nukem384.blogspot.com/ Quick tutorial on how to change your brake pads and rotors on a Subaru WRX. STi is simila…
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no did it wrong…your forgetting a very important step before install you
spray brake clean on the rotor and also check for any kicks or
imperfections, when i do brake jobs i always examine the rubber/ hard lines
as well as the caliper seals and the boots on the bracket nuts….its a
subaru so everyone be careful loosing the bolts that hold the caliper and
caliper bracket on too.,,, they can get VERY frozen on, penetrating
solution is your friend in that case
damn, looks like the owner before me messed up the spindle. thanks for the
info
that doesnt sound normal. they should all be the same size.
are the bolts that hold the bracket for the front calipers suppose to be
all the same size?? on my wrx one of the bolts on the driverside is bigger
then the rest (17mm) of the bolts. is that normal??
id better watch that ebay stuff….looks good and cheap but wait till you
get the product. went through 6 pairs of bugeye headlights. ordered sets
for 200 and they came broken every time. cracked lenses, cracked housing,
cracked plastic, just stupid shit. just go with real stuff when it comes to
stuff like thiis
looks really easy until i run into a rusted bolt that doesnt wanna
crack….`..every dam thing in my bugeye
im about to have this full brake kit installed on my 2003 Baja they should
look awesome 🙂 ebay com then this—>
/itm/390652588976?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
a neat little trick… at 1:20 the vid shows a still of the rotor. There
are 2 holes there (one at about 1 o’clock, the other at about o’clock).
There is a bolt that holds your brake line to your strut that you can just
screw in there, and what that does is pushes the rotor right off without
having to hammer it. Its made for that.
Great video as always, but a couple things of note. As with the Pilot brake
video, you didn’t service the caliper bracket, and slide pins. It is very
important to clean the area of the bracket where the pads fit in with a
wire brush, both above and below the clips, so rust doesn’t accumulate and
freeze the pads in place. You also want to lube the ears of the new pads,
and the caliper slide pins. Finally you didn’t mention removing the
cosmoline from the new rotors. Other than that, great job !!
I’m looking this tutorial without sound… I was very shocked when I saw
you working with four hands 😀 Nice tutorial!
Holy shit you have have 3 hands?!
@tbpom1003 this is my buddies car, so not sure where he got the rotors,
sorry! i haven’t had that problem, but usually i dont buy parts from
private sellers, just sounds like the wrong part.
wow replacing the rotor was easier than i thought….
@motorwolrdpl if it makes you feel better, you can crack the bleeder valve
open while you compress the piston, but it doesn’t really matter. bleeding
the brakes is totally separate, you dont have to do pads and brake bleeds
at the same time.
@redlense4 it would be very similar if not exactly the same
how about for a 96 204sx zenki is it pretty much the same?
I need to get my rotor off!
Excuse me?
well I needed new brakes and rotors on my 02 Subaru outback and i’m
unemployed so money is an issue. I didn’t think I wanted to attempt my
first brake job ever just because breaks are so important! But then I found
your video and with some positive thinking ….mission accomplished! Thanks
for posting this video it really helped me! Only two hiccups along the way
(1), parts store sold me the wrong pads! , (2) one of the bracket bolts was
seized and I broke that mo fo trying to get it unscrewed!
@motorwolrdpl they would feel the same as when you didnt change the pads.
if you pedal feels hard and you gotta stomp really hard to stop then your
car is probably off or your brake booster has a problem
Do you know if this is similar for an ’08 Outback? Thanks.
WAT IF YOU DONT HAVE A C CLAMP IS THER ANYTHING ELSE I CAN USE?
How would you go about pumping brake fluid around the system? Isn’t that an
essential process you need to do every time you work on a vehicles braking
system? Once the change is complete, do you open the brake fluid cap from
the engine bay, pump the pedal til you get a firm resistance, and then put
the cap back on? Also how would you know whether to bleed the braking
system? Sorry if I sound like I’m moaning, it’s a very good tutorial. 🙂
Followed the instructions to replace the rear pads (but not rotors) on my
04 WRX. Basically identical. Thanks!
@tnc7 yeah should be the same thing. nope, never bled the fluid after and
have never had problems.
Why compress the piston? Top video by the way, this is just the part that’s
putting me off
might be a wheel bearing. i just changed one
You could use the hood bolts if you wanted. 8×1.25 mm is a very common size
on a Toyota. Just about every bolt you find on a Toyota with a 12mm head
will be the correct thread pitch, with the exception of driveshaft bolts.
Do not use a hammer to remove your rotor!, We’ll unless like he said, you
won’t ever us it again. Use the pinch bolt holes (8×1.25 mm) to “push” the
rotor off. Important: When taking the rear rotors off, the e-brake must be
disengaged because it will be pressing against the inside of the rotors and
they won’t come off. My 2 cents.
you should have used a block of wood to protect the caliper and sale it or
keep it.
How about a 2000 Legacy. Should be somewhat the same huh?
thank you, I was wondering about the pinch bolt holes tyty
Did you put some quiet grease on the back of the pads?
If you’re going through all the trouble of new rotors and pads you should
be relubing the slide pins. Why risk having a pin seize in a few months and
destroy your new pads and rotors.