Today we’re replacing the lower control arms, and ball joints,
with basic hand tools. This specific vehicle is a 2010 Impreza with just about 145k miles. We’ll go over each step in detail and point out other maintenance issues, such as the sway bar bushings and stabilizer links. It’s also a good idea to disconnect the battery.
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Tools Used:
Lower Control Arm Right: https://amzn.to/2EAim5s
Lower Control Arm Left: https://amzn.to/2SbgjwG
Safety Glasses
Breaker Bar (1/2″)
Ratchet (3/8 & 1/2″)
Sockets (12, 14, 17 and 19mm)
3-pound hammer
Scrap wood
#youtubelearning
Note:
Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Carsntoys is a member of the Amazon Influencer Program.
Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited.
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Subaru’s are well known to develop front end knocking. Check: Subaru lower control arms, Subaru ball joints, Subaru stabilizer link, Subaru Sway Bar Bushings and Subaru motor mounts. Subaru suspension repair. Subaru suspension help. Subaru loud knocking. Subaru noise over bumps.
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Your videos help immensely. Tomorrow morning I'll be doing both front wheel bearings and both front LCAs. Heavy use of ole wd will be deployed.
Suggestions?
Doing this job on a 2006 Outback, and had to use a torch because (almost) everything was frozen. The stud for the rear bushing came out of the chassis instead of the nut coming loose. I have a new stud on order from Subaru, just wondering if this has ever happened to you, and if you have any warnings or tips about reinstalling it
Why does the whole arm need to be replaced and not just the bushings? Or are the bushings just a part of the control arm that are not seperable? Either way, thank you for the video!
Replaces the link on the driver side had to cut it out. I replaced with a MOOG. It’s doesn’t look right. It’s not vertical, it seems to be on a angle.The link I cut out was vertical. The video you made shows you changing to a MOOG, however, it’s vertical. Any suggestions I would appreciate.Also, excellent video.
Thank you for sharing. I followed the way to diagnose and found out my forester has the same issue.
Well done!! No I can change mine and not pay $800 to have some one else do it
Awesome video, thanks! There are no clear videos showing the front jack point either so you killed 2 birds with one video!
I need to do this job. Is it easier to remove the ball joint from the knuckle or is it easier to remove the control arm from the ball joint? I am assuming the ball joint is still OK. It is the front bushing in my case that is totally shot. I know most people say replace everything since your doing the work now, but I need the quickest, easiest, cheapest solution.
Outstanding
This is one of the clearest videos. Thanks
I had to dremel/die grind my sway bar link off. It was completely frozen and the allen key holes were stripped.
Hey man, any chance you know what special tool you need to fix the long bolt @13:41 can’t seem to find what it’s called, mines moving and making annoying noises when I drive
What's the idea of lowering the car before tightening the front bushing bolt? I've seen others skip this step.
I recently had this done on my 2014 Forester. But now I have an occasional clicking noise when I turn. As if something is binding then releasing.
Awesome video, really helped me with my front control arm install this weekend. I used Subaru OEM parts and they also have the additional bracket shown on your Dorman part (12:29). I used the floor jack to push the ball joint into place, with a piece of wood between the jack and ball joint. My 2009 WRX has a ground effects kit, but laying on the ground I was still able to reach in and tighten the front bushing after the car was lowered to the ground. Didn't really figure out a good way to use the torque wrench on the stabilizer bar end links so I tightened them to what I thought was about 33 ft lbs.
Ball joint bolt: 36.9 ft-lb
Rear plate to body: 110.6 ft-lb
Rear plate to control arm: 81.1 ft-lb
Front bushing: 70.1 ft-lb
Stabilizer links: 33.2 ft-lb
Stabilizer bushings: 18.4 ft-lb
Front crossmember support plate: 44.3 ft-lb
Good trick using the extension for a breaker bar.
Very well done . Great step by step instructions.
nice. Vidio Thank you for sharing this
smacked the hell out of the pinch but it wouldn't let go of the ball joint. no trouble at all removing the pinch bolt itself. but wedged a pry tool into the pinch, hammered on it, hammered on the control arm with some wood, I tried it all sucker won't let go! might have to pay a local shop I guess. only thing I might try is an air hammer but really don't want to do that and risk damaging the brake lines or wheel hub
Could I use car ramps for the tightening of the last control arm bolt? That way I could get under the car as my legacy sits fairly low to the ground. I would assume so but just curious
Very helpful!
I wish you would do a video on replacing the lower control arm on your 1997 Nissan Maxima cause I need do it on my 95 Maxima and there's no good video on it.
this is one of the hardest repairs on cars, due to rust
Buddy, i wants to send you couple used oil filters for your new video. Is it possible?