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Quick overview to ball joint replacement on a 2002 Outback. May be necessary to remove sway bar end link and disconnect tie rod end to have enough working room.
—–I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.—–
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I wish my pinch bolt wouldn't have strip to the point that I now need to change the entire steering knuckle
Very good video.
I know you are pretty quick to respond. And your advice has saved my ass already. I'm at a loss right now. It sounds like there is a rock in my rotor. Not a constand grinding. But is almost like a tick. I took my wheel off and there is a lot of play in the hub itself. It moves up and down. (Like forwards and backwards when I move it at 12 and 6. When I got serviced before the technician stated that there was some play and it was my ball joint. But personally i cant find any material that is evidence to back up his claim. The noise sure. But a ball joint causing movement in the rotor? Not so sure. It was dark and is dark now so I couldnt get a proper look. The only thing that seemed to move was the cv axle. That moved towards the engine and towards the wheel. But the rotor didnt move with it. What am I missing! I don't have a press so the bearings would be a capital B. Tia!
any tricks to getting the ball joint out if the spindle/knuckle? lots of videos seem to use a block of wood and hammer while you pry it out. mine is stuck right where you started with it just starting to come out but can't get it any further yet. thanks!
Nicer stock sway bar links than what came on my 2005 gt wagon.
Video leaves out the most important part – you must remove the steering stabilizer from its attachment point on the lower control arm. If you fail to do this, the two arms push against each other and you'll never get the ball joint out of either piece.
I just picked up a 2000 Outback 5-speed and this video has helped a lot. Thank you!
Holy cow if only American cars was as easy to do. No wonder japanese cars last longer.
Great video! I hope it goes that easily for me.
what pinch bolt are you using
NIce video. Straight to the point. Very useful.
WOW you made that look so easy 🙂 good job.
I started working on Subaru in the mid 80s. When did you first start working on them?
Mr Subaru where do you get your remanufactured steering racks?
did you remove the tie rod ends to allow the discs to move? When I try this replacement the ball joint gets stuck after removing the pinch bolt
i watched like 3 subaru ball joint videos and was thinking i would have trouble doing this to my 01 legacy but honestly that pry bar technique is SO smart it looks as easy as a tire rotation so glad i found this video all the others were very complicated procedures
I'm prayin this goes as smoothly for me tomorrow.
total bullshit this does not work for all Subaru.
maybe you could add sizes of sockets and wrenchs?
I can't get the ball joint back into the lower control arm .. went into knuckle fine
so you dont have o press the ball joint back in? cause it seems like its not in all the way??
Nice job. You must live in a dry climate. No rust. BL's are notorious on the East Coast. We need special pullers to get them out.
Thank you for all your vids, makes me more confident in doing my own work on my subbie!
Whats the worse case scenario if I can't pry the joint from the knuckle? Id have to remove the whole hub/knuckle assembly and get a shop to pull it out?
You are VERY good Thank you for the great video
that separation at 1:33 came easy – mine is not. how do you get the control arm to pop free and move over? MIne separates but stays aligned – ball joint goes right back into the hole.