Replacing the Front Brakes on a 2002 Subaru Forester

Replacing the Front Brakes on a 2002 Subaru Forester

In this episode of The Rat Race Losers, I demonstrate how to replace the front brakes on a 2002 Subaru Forester. Most of the steps you will see in this video…

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chihuahua verde says:

Great in depth video. I agree with you on the rotor resurfacing. On my
Toyota truck I can get about 3 years out of a set of rotors. The last two
times I had them resurfaced, they only last about 3 months before they
begin to lose their flatness. I end up purchasing a new set of rotors
anyway after the trouble.

Bob Fish says:

Ditto ditto! Really terrific video.

mrdeath212 says:

whats the break in procedure?

Randy Allen says:

Awesome tutorial. Lots of good details that others blow right over. I’ll
never pay to have my pads changed again.Thanks very much. Good audio and
video coverage too!

Lumomba Omer says:

Well explained and well filmed, thanks so much man, From now on I should be
able to change the break pads on my Subaru myself and save the money on my
child account :)) thanks so much

Jonathan Dadekian says:

Awesome in depth video man. This is the best that I’ve seen! 

Dean Lerch says:

Thanks, I’m going to look like a bad ass when I change my wives brakes.
Great video

xodrinker says:

thanks for a very informative video – and thanks for not jumping over the
small details that tend to be forgotten – now i dare to try myself

Paul Morales says:

Great video thank you very much

Ratrace Losers says:

The system is designed to have fluid move back and forth through it, so as
long as you compress the pistons slowly, I can’t imagine that it’d harm the
ABS.

03stratusrt says:

the part u was taling bout at 850 the caliper hard ware or housing how do u
know when that part goes bad?

Ratrace Losers says:

You should be fine. Brakes are easy. Just take your time.

beardSALAD says:

why didn’t you resurface the rotors?

MultiBamf69 says:

Thank You. I just had a person ask me to change the pads and its my first
time so i dont want to fuck up somebodys car..but now im confident it will
be an easy job..Thnx so much!!

beardSALAD says:

cool, that makes sense. thanks for the info!

Paul Morales says:

First off your should use the old brake pad against the pistons when you
press them in with the c-clamp

MultiBamf69 says:

Hey, im about to change some. I didnt see you open the bleeder valve so im
going to assume pushing the pistons back in will not harm ABS???

Clinton van Zyl says:

Thanks for a great video bud. I have just started hearing a god awful noise
from my front left wheel, hence I found my way here. Now that I have this
helpful info I’m gonna give it a go myself. I’m wondering though if a
spanner across the 2 pistons and using a clamp or pliers might be easier to
get the pistons down? Thanks

Vintabilly's Nest says:

Great video. Thank you for your effort. I walked through my own brake job
because of it. Turns out I was doing part of it wrong for about 15 years.
😀 Thank you.

Ratrace Losers says:

Brake rotors stop the car by turning rotational energy into heat. The mass
of the rotor plays a large role in how much heat they can absorb before
they are at risk of warping. When you resurface a rotor, you are making the
braking surface thinner. This makes the rotor more prone to warpage. In
general, rotors are cheap. I just replace them when they get “too bad.”

Ratrace Losers says:

I didn’t resurface the rotors because they didn’t need it. If they are
smooth and flat, I will scuff them with a red scotchbrite or some sandpaper
to break the glaze on them. If they are gouged enough to *require*
resurfacing, I don’t bother. I replace them. Here’s why:

gerald cassie says:

thanks for yuor help. jerry

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