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1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace rusted, corroded, or stuck spark plugs. This video is applicable to the 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 Subaru Forester
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver http://1aau.to/oaha/1AXAA00013
• Complete Metric Wrench Set http://1aau.to/opq/1AXAA00010
• Complete Metric Socket Set http://1aau.to/ork/1AXAA00043
• 5/16 Inch Spark Plug Socket
• Torque Wrench http://1aau.to/ou4/1AXAA00044
• Rust Penetrant
• Flashlight http://1aau.to/oa8/1AXAA00210
• Telescope magnet
For More Info visit us at http://1aau.to/h/bem/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Best auto repair video I've seen. I very much appreciate the detailed instructions on removing parts in the way, advice on using multiple length extensions, and just the overall detailed step by step. Kudos!
They have magnetized spark plug sockets. Would that be better or worse than the foamed one
Thanks for the video. I found it not that difficult although I don't have huge hands. Took about an hour. I didn't even bother to remove anything on the passenger side. I used a regular 14 mm deep socket, 3" extension with the retaining ball ground down with an angle grinder as well as the retaining ball on the ratchet handle ground down. This made taking the pieces out one by one so much easier. I also used a flexible magnet tool to retrieve the spark plugs and socket once unthreaded.
What about anti-seize on the plug threads?
Really, really well-made tutorial. Thanks!
Changed the sparkplugs yesterday on 2016 Forester @ 62k miles. Difficulties: (1) I'm a senior citizen…it took me awhile to figure out where to press on the electrical connections to coils to release them. You have to squeeze near the wire end and simulatanously push towards back to release electrical connections to coils. Hard. That took finger strength and dexerity some folks may have trouble with. (2) the rear driver's plug was hard to remove. I ended up using a flex + 1" socket extension to R&R it. And I use very light amount of antiseize on sparkplugs. I found 2 plugs gapped more than .044". Had to regap those 2. The other 2 sparkplugs were at .044". The lubed plugs are easier to install using only fingers….then once bottomed I tightened about 1/8 turn until seated. I found I didn't have the correct sparkplug socket. Used deep socket. Good luck!
Good step by step video. Doing 2016 Forester today. These cars have so little room that you have to torque plugs by feel.
I cannot get the coil pac wire to lock…no matter how hard I try. Is there a secret?
Thanks for the video. There is a difference between knowing the path and walking the path. The difficult part for me is to get the spark plug socket and the little extension bar out. It can not be taken out together for the rear driver side, and it is also difficult to break extension bar and socket apart due to its awkward position. It is at least 5 times more difficult than a regular I4 engine. There are people jacking up the engine a little higher so the side-wall is not in the way, maybe that is a good idea. May try that after another 60k miles.
I love your how-to videos 1A Auto! I just did the driver side tonight and that one at 9:11 has such a tight clearance it was a pain in the butt with my 1/4" torque wrench (ignition coil bolt) and 3/8" torque wrench (spark plug). I want to say you almost need a extension that is 1 or 2 inches (I know 3" is common), or either a really long (so you don't need an extension), or really short (so a 3" would work) 14 mm spark plug 6-point socket. You also need a very small 10 mm 6-point socket that matches your torque wrench (you can't use a 1/4 to 3/8" adapter) for that ignition coil bolt if you want to use a torque wrench.
To be honestly I was planning to find a video to learn to replace spark on 2016 forester xt, however after I saw your video I want to sell it and replace to a toyota now.
This detailed video inspired me to tackle this job myself, thus saving money. Mine is a 2016 Forester Touring 2.5 liter non-turbo. Here's a brief synopsis of my experience:
I purchased the brand and model number spark plugs specified in my owners manual. Then I assembled the right tools.
I used the ARES 11000-14mm thin wall magnetic swivel 3/8" drive spark plug socket. https://www.amazon.com/ARES-11000-14mm-Magnetic-Swivel-Socket/dp/B07RR84RXB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ARES+11000-14mm+Thin+Wall+Magnetic+Swivel+Spark+Plug+Socket+-+3%2F8-Inch+Drive+12-Point+Spark+Plug+Socket+-+Walls+2mm+Thinner+Than+Standard+Spark+Plug+Sockets&qid=1610656140&sr=8-1
l also used a 1 1/2" 3/8 drive extension https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-43537-1-1-Extension-Drive/dp/B007C6KHH6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Craftsman+Tools+Extension+Bar+%281-1%2F2%22+Long+3%2F8%22+Drive%29&qid=1610655381&sr=8-5
and a TEKTON 3/8" low profile 8" ratchet https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-8-Inch-Drive-Ratchet-SRH01108/dp/B07GHX35X8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=TEKTON+3%2F8+Inch+Drive+x+8+Inch+Ratchet%7CSRH01108&qid=1610654656&sr=8-1.
I already owned a 3" extension which I put to good use.
A commenter here suggested starting on the passenger side because it is the easier side. I followed this good advice, allowing me to familiarize myself with the sockets, extensions, etc. I had to remove the air cleaner box, which is fairly easy.
The driver's side is tougher, especially the rearmost plug. (Cylinder #4) The clearance here is tight, requiring you to work in the blind. BEFORE you insert the socket into the spark plug hole, attach the 3" extension and socket and insert them as a whole. Why? Because the socket goes in deep enough where you can't get it out or attach the extension. If you lack clearance for the 3" extension, use the 1 1/2". But insert them as a whole. Another commenter here remarked on this difficulty.
I was able to avoid removing the battery. Nor did I have to remove the connectors on any coils.
After 60,000 miles the old plugs looked fine and still had the correct gap. I only use top tier gasoline (www.toptier.org) which keeps engines running cleaner. As the owner of this video said, patience is key here. The job took me about 2 hours. This video made it easier than I thought it would be. Thank you 1A Auto.
Good thorough video that demonstrates a key mechanical trait – "feel" for proper torque. I've seldom used torque wrench for sparkplugs simply because today's cars are so tight you don't have room.
3 suggestions some DITYers will argue on. 1) I recommend a light touch of Dialectic Grease on sparkplug boots to facilitate next Sparkplug replacement at 120k miles. 2) with aluminum heads + steel sparkplugs you get corrosion. Suggest using Antiseize with old toothbrush and very thinly (like painting) brush on plug threads except last 2 threads closest to pistons 3) I don't trust factory….check Sparkplug gap to be .044". And take your time. No rush.
Not difficult? What a nightmare. Obviously whoever engineered this car never had to work on it..
Thank you. This looked like the turbo motor but it was almost identical on the 2.5 naturally aspirated. Worked great for my 2015 forester!
Thank you so much for video step by step.
What's the correct gap for these spark plugs for FB engines
Spark plug sockets with built in universal joints make this job a bunch easier.
Not easy boxer but i did GMC yukon easily
Thank you for this video–this made what would have been an impossible job for this shade-tree mechanic possible–ended by buying some slim-line ratchets and that did the trick!