DIY : 2015-2019 Subaru Outback FRONT Brake Pad Replacement

DIY : 2015-2019 Subaru Outback FRONT Brake Pad Replacement

A quick video on changing the front brake pads on the car.

The pads I used are here:

But any pads should suffice. Buy the pads you life.

I hope all my viewers are doing well in these uncommon times.



j_k_adventuring says:

How’s it going. Good video. I’m a subscriber and follower on Instagram as well. Just one suggestion for a professional mechanic here. Just use the old brake pad with your channel locks so you don’t damage the brake caliper piston. Good content. Keep it coming.

Rich Talach says:

I like your style, no nonsense. First time I did brakes on my 2015 Outback, you were a great help, thnaks.

Harpoon_Bakery says:

If i installed one of the four pads with the clip up, do I need to take the Wheel back off and flip the pad? By the way, all four of my pads were identical in that two of them didn't have that special thing you said needed to go on the inside only.

Gerald Begin says:

Thanks a lot Bruce 🙂
I just got my new Outback 2020, I hope It will looks like the same when I will change the pad.
What is the best thing to do as a preventive corrosion on brake system. Is it to check twice a year to see if everything is fine and put more grease where it is missing. ?

B.E. Harder says:

Wow, that saved me a bunch of time and $$$! Thank you!!!

Lester Verano says:

your better than me. I've been doing my brakes wrong my whole life. silly me taking off the whole caliper.

Brian Kennedy says:

That is quite odd. Typically it goes two front to one rear. Sounds like maybe your proportioning valve is malfunctioning. The front brakes should do most of the work. Be careful with your channel locks. They can damage the caliper piston. Especially if you have hyperbolic fiber pistons. Can break big chunks out. I usually use a big flat screwdriver before taking caliper off. Stick in thru hole in caliper into vent holes in rotor and pry. Sometimes have to go between rotor and pad. Taking care not to gouge rotor. This helps loosen up slide bolts if needed. As they tend to stick. And subaru and i think every manufacturer quit using the screw type parking brake years ago. They suck. Had many issues. Now they are seperate. There are a set of small shoes that go behind the rotor. They use the inside of the hub portion of rotor as the brake drum.

Rick Bennett says:

I tried to find the brake pads you recommend but Amazon says they are unavailable. The Power Stop website recommends "Power Stop 17-1078, Z17 Front Ceramic Brake Pads with Hardware". Thanks for another good video!

80srockerable says:

Thanks for overview. I'm same situation. Did the rear pads. Bought front too. Now at 99k miles. I brought oem pads and came with l new clips, etc. For the rear Lisle makes a brake piston tool #28600. Which makes it easy to scew in parking brake piston. At first I was trying to push it. Brakes are like 1st side goes slow. 2nd side is fast.

Brad Mangas says:

Thanks for the quick informative video. Will help a bunch since I will need to be doing the same thing to my 2015 Outback. Just a little nitpicky note. Those pliers you sometimes call vise grips but said they are Channel Locks. They aren't Channel Locks either. Channel Lock is a brand and it looked those you had weren't even Channel Lock brand. (Channel Lock brands are blue handled). Those are "technically" Adjustable Pliers. Many tool manufactures make "adjustable pliers" not just Channel Lock. I know, who cares. Thanks again.

AudioAdvisory38 says:

Always helps; burp your boots, check for fluid draining past the piston seal.

Gage W says:

I just buy harbor freight screw drivers and use them like pry bars. They have a lifetime warrenty so whenever I snap them I just take them back and they give a free new set.

Tormod Skoog says:

Thanks for sharing! Nice to know these brakes are still very simple to do. Did many brakes jobs on my old 1998. I just recently bought a 2017 and am loving it.

softroadingthewest says:

"I call them vice grips…" LOL Loved the cameo appearance by the kitty. This video made the brake job look easy enough for even me to tackle.

My independent mechanic I go to for jobs that are beyond my DIY abilities (so, everything) told me they always replace the rotors by default when replacing brake pads…they won't do pads only. As it turned out, I still had plenty of pad left, so I haven't had the brakes done yet. If I replace the pads only while there's still pad left, and there hasn't been any metal-on-metal contact, is there a compelling reason to replace the rotors?

Maybe about 9 months or a year ago, it seemed like EVERYONE on Instagram was replacing their rotors with some kind of fancy aftermarket thing with curvy edges or cutouts or I don't know what. Is there a compelling reason for someone who drives like a…well, like a responsible safety-conscious 50-yr-old…to upgrade the rotors? What benefits are those people getting from those fancy rotors?

Jesse James says:

I changed my rear ones out on my 15 Outback 3.6r with some cross drilled and slotted rotors. I also threw on a strut tie bar and the 20mm rear sway bar from the STi (it’s a direct fit for the 15-17 Outback). I know the sway bar and strut tie bar make off-road handling potentially worse but I spend 99.99999999% of my time on the road so it makes sense for the to concentrate on the “on-road’ handling. The strut tie bar made a noticeable difference in turn in. The STi rear sway bar makes a big difference on the handling in sharp corners at speed and oddly enough it helped over speed bumps (no more rocking back and forth after clearing them).

John Pooley says:

Good video, I used RockAuto and was very happy with the parts and price. The channel locks are the part that the Service Manual doesn't explain well lol, but you did!

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