1993 Subaru Impreza – front CV axle replacement

1993 Subaru Impreza – front CV axle replacement

In this video, I show how to replace the front CV axle in a 1993 Subaru Impreza FWD automatic. Check out my blog: http://mercedesdieselguy.blogspot.com.

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shades2 says:

Hey thanks. I’ll look into the replacements. They’re probably both getting
a bit worn now.

madmat2001 says:

I have a question, do you need to compress the spring on the front strut?
I’m replacing the transmission in mine and can’t get the half-shaft off the
stub axle on the trans so I’m thinking of removing the top carrier to strut
bolts to gain a bit more room.

MercedesDieselGuy says:

In this case, the boot was torn and the axle was starting to click. I
generally replace them as needed, which rarely means in pairs. If they’re
quiet and the boots are intact, they stay on the car. In my experience, the
driver’s side axles outlive the passenger side, as the passenger side axle
boots are close to the hot exhaust, which ages them faster.

shades2 says:

This is the passenger side with the damaged boot. Left side here. Yes our
steering/driver is RHS.

shades2 says:

Hi there, my 2007 WRX just blew a outer CV joint boot, and threw a large
amount of grease. It has been clicking. Can I just replace the boot with a
split boot, or something similar, or do I need to swap out the
driveshaft/s. Car has 90kms on the clock.

BarnyWaterg8 says:

Thinking about buying a 93 impreza hatchback with 175k miles on it. Does
need the cv axle needs to be replace I believe. Any advice from anyone?

MercedesDieselGuy says:

No spring compressors. The strut stays compressed until you remove it from
the car and undo the top nut holding the strut, spring, and strut bearing
together. Until then, you don’t need a spring compressor.

MercedesDieselGuy says:

Not a bad DIY job. I paid $300 to have it done at a shop years ago. So, not
necessarily a deal breaker if you have a shop do the work.

MercedesDieselGuy says:

Best of luck. Provided things aren’t rusted too bad, it’s not a bad job.

MercedesDieselGuy says:

I can’t say for sure if your car has the exact same setup (I think it
does). Given the low cost of replacement axles, I would HIGHLY recommend
replacing the whole CV axle than to try and re-boot the one you have,
especially if it’s already clicking. from what I’ve heard, split boots
rarely work.

MercedesDieselGuy says:

I replaced the transmission (manual) in my old Legacy a few years back. I
didn’t have to unbolt the strut from the shock tower. If anything… I
might unbolt the strut from the steering knuckle and perhaps disconnect the
outer tie rods to gain more clearance to slip the axles off the
transmission.

MrSweetieJayDub says:

If there is noise that is decidedly one of the axles, but both boots look
intact, how can I tell which axle it is?

madmat2001 says:

Great! Thank you very much. I’ve done more than a few trans swaps in my
time but this is my first attempt at a FWD swap. It’s shaping up to be one
of the more frustrating ones I’ve done.

Marcus Nansen says:

I’m replacing the same CV axle on a Legacy. When I remove the two mentioned
bolts, the strut is pushing down on the outer joint, hampering the job. In
this case a spring compressor may be necessary? Thanks for a helpful video
btw.

shades2 says:

Cool, thanks. : )

MercedesDieselGuy says:

I had that situation once. I replaced both axles. I suppose you could
listen carefully and try to guess which side the noise is coming from. Or,
you could replace one and see if the noise goes away. Unless you have a
great ear for this stuff, it’s a bit difficult to tell which is the bad
one.

MercedesDieselGuy says:

Oh, well. Either way, I’d replace the bad axle and see if the car’s OK from
there.

MercedesDieselGuy says:

My recommendation is to replace the one with the torn boot. Let me guess –
driver’s side (I see you’re Australian, and I think the steering wheel
should be on the right for you)? The outer boot passes close to the
exhaust, which I believe ages them prematurely. At that mileage, I would
bet the other side is OK. I’d try replacing the bad one and see what
happens.

madmat2001 says:

I wasn’t going to unbolt the strut from the tower, I am going to unbolt it
from the hub carrier just like you did when you replaced the half-shaft.
Some cars require the springs to be restrained when you do this, some do
not. I don’t know if the Subaru needs spring compression or not so I asked
you since you’ve just done it. I cannot tell in the video if you’ve got
spring compressors on the spring.

BarnyWaterg8 says:

went ahead and bought it, changing the CV axle tomorrow morning and putting
new front brake pads on hah wish me luck

MrSweetieJayDub says:

Are you changing them necessarily, or is there evidence they need to be
changed? I have on that definitely needs changed, but the other seems ok. I
am trying to decide if I should just do them both while I’m doing it in the
first place.

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