Why is the reason to remove that bolt aside from being rusted? What was it
doing? My car is moving side to side when driving, doing some research and
this came up. Any thoughts anyone?
I love air chisels. They have a very limited use IMO, but when I use it to
hammer or chisel something, I feel like a bad, bad mofo, my friend. It’s
like I have a machine gun in my hand, so watch out!
I got to the inner sleeve by drilling a bunch of holes in the outer sleeve
and removing the leftover metal and rubber bits with pliers. Local gm
dealer has bolt for $12 ( canadian). Will try air hammer maybe next time,
but from my experience will need to hammer bolt even in sleeve a distance.
Just had the problem on my old accord. I’m pretty sure they were grade 10
bolts. I’d recommend a sawzall with a bimetal cutting blade to cut the
bolts. I mistakenly hammered the crap outta them and ruined my subframe.
So, if they’re seized, just cut em out and replace the bushing/control arm.
The sawzall/reciprocating saw method took 2 minutes.
Bolt is 12mmx1.75x 80mmlong. Grade 10.9 . I have had to remove 2 of these
recently with great difficulty from a ’01 and ’02 sl1. Mine unthreaded a
little and then seized up in rusted sleeve of control arm. I ended up in
each case holding inner sleeve with vise grips so as to finish removal of
bolts. How did i get to the inner sleeve? The ’02 sl that i have owned
since new i have no trouble removing either lower control arm bolt as i
reassemble each time with liberal amounts of grease .
Everybody says they don’t have an air chisel. They are less than ten bucks
from Harbor Freight. Maybe what you don’t have is an air compressor. One of
those little portable air tanks will drive a chisel enough to loosen a
bolt. Fill it up at a gas station. Air chisels are great, they tear up
bricks in a hurry, and if you pull up a post with concrete on the bottom a
chisel will remove it. Think of it as an air hammer.
Yes the sawzall is you best friend sometimes. Important Update: Jan 1 2013
there will be a new richpin channel for all future videos.Richpin06a
channel will be solely for all the Saturn lovers out there.Should be a lot
of fun so stay tuned.
Thanks! I’ll give it a shot. I want to thank you for all your posts,
especially for stuff with the SL1. You’ve saved me a lot of trial and
error. Much appreciated!
Happen to have the specs for that bolt handy? I hear it is a “grade 10.9,
flanged bolt head and nut, probably 12mm diameter, 14 or 15 tpi, about 3
1/4″ of thread with an un-threaded nipple” sounds like that could be hard
to find if i need to resort to a hacksaw.
Sometimes you’re probably going to ruin one of those control arm bolts no
matter how careful you are. What if it’s an older vehicle and the bolts
have been discontinued and the aftermarket suppliers don’t have them
either? What do you look for at the local hardware store besides the
correct size and shape? Do they have to be a certain grade of steel?
the best way is to mod a pointed air chisel so it gives you the best aim
and control,and also hold it up right tight to the end of the bolt so it
has very little travel in the chisel. on a 95 monte for example you will
have to make the chisel short to the point of only 1/2 inch past the spring
in the air hammer and be prepared for a long day on the particular car if
the botls are frozen.
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I spent 5 days removing only 1 lca bolt out on my mustang gt. Used torch,
pb blaster, breaker bar and sledgehammer. Driver side tomorrow. Ugh!
nice video! thanks.
can you tell me the part number for that bolt and nut?
im having a really hard time finding one.
that was a really bad example of a frozen bolt. when in doubt, heat the
shit out of it.
In order to remove the control arm this bolt has to be removed.
Why is the reason to remove that bolt aside from being rusted? What was it
doing? My car is moving side to side when driving, doing some research and
this came up. Any thoughts anyone?
That pipe is from the strut internals of a 71-72 vw super beetle.
I love air chisels. They have a very limited use IMO, but when I use it to
hammer or chisel something, I feel like a bad, bad mofo, my friend. It’s
like I have a machine gun in my hand, so watch out!
I got to the inner sleeve by drilling a bunch of holes in the outer sleeve
and removing the leftover metal and rubber bits with pliers. Local gm
dealer has bolt for $12 ( canadian). Will try air hammer maybe next time,
but from my experience will need to hammer bolt even in sleeve a distance.
Just had the problem on my old accord. I’m pretty sure they were grade 10
bolts. I’d recommend a sawzall with a bimetal cutting blade to cut the
bolts. I mistakenly hammered the crap outta them and ruined my subframe.
So, if they’re seized, just cut em out and replace the bushing/control arm.
The sawzall/reciprocating saw method took 2 minutes.
Yeah but what about the cost of the air gun?
dude that nut and bolt isnt even rusted….just remove it. the penetrating
oil wasnt needed
he knows it wasnt that rusted. these bolts rust badly and cause problems
for removal. hes trying to help people. i came to the video looking for
help.
@Cynyr13 i do not have the specs on that bolt handy
Bolt is 12mmx1.75x 80mmlong. Grade 10.9 . I have had to remove 2 of these
recently with great difficulty from a ’01 and ’02 sl1. Mine unthreaded a
little and then seized up in rusted sleeve of control arm. I ended up in
each case holding inner sleeve with vise grips so as to finish removal of
bolts. How did i get to the inner sleeve? The ’02 sl that i have owned
since new i have no trouble removing either lower control arm bolt as i
reassemble each time with liberal amounts of grease .
@breezebro You tellem my friend……
That’s what I thought too, looks like it would’ve been easy to remove.
It is a craftsman 900.271221
@CoolasIce2 I feel the same way…don’t get in my way when i have my air
chisel.
You shouldn’t use a pipe to get more leverage because you are pushing the
wrench far beyond its limit. The solution would be to get a longer wrench
Excellent use of the air chisel. Wouldn’t it be better to have the nut
screwed out flush with the end of the bolt to prevent “mushrooming it?
Everybody says they don’t have an air chisel. They are less than ten bucks
from Harbor Freight. Maybe what you don’t have is an air compressor. One of
those little portable air tanks will drive a chisel enough to loosen a
bolt. Fill it up at a gas station. Air chisels are great, they tear up
bricks in a hurry, and if you pull up a post with concrete on the bottom a
chisel will remove it. Think of it as an air hammer.
My problem is usually getting the nut to loosen. But I have a Jeep with
170k+ on it.
Sounds like a New England accent. Definitely not NYC or NJ. Great video.
Thanks for the air chisel idea! -D
What kind of reciprocating saw?
If you’re really desperate you can use a bike pump to fill up the tank.
Yes the sawzall is you best friend sometimes. Important Update: Jan 1 2013
there will be a new richpin channel for all future videos.Richpin06a
channel will be solely for all the Saturn lovers out there.Should be a lot
of fun so stay tuned.
You might what to try this penetrating oil called Aerokroil it is supposed
to amazing stuff.
Thanks! I’ll give it a shot. I want to thank you for all your posts,
especially for stuff with the SL1. You’ve saved me a lot of trial and
error. Much appreciated!
@Cynyr13 Order it from your local GM dealer who is assigned to handle
Saturn parts.
Just curious what type of pipe you keep using in these videos for leverage,
and where did you get it.
Happen to have the specs for that bolt handy? I hear it is a “grade 10.9,
flanged bolt head and nut, probably 12mm diameter, 14 or 15 tpi, about 3
1/4″ of thread with an un-threaded nipple” sounds like that could be hard
to find if i need to resort to a hacksaw.
This dude is 110% new englander or lived in Boston lol it’s the haaardest
paaaht
Sometimes you’re probably going to ruin one of those control arm bolts no
matter how careful you are. What if it’s an older vehicle and the bolts
have been discontinued and the aftermarket suppliers don’t have them
either? What do you look for at the local hardware store besides the
correct size and shape? Do they have to be a certain grade of steel?
It would be better but on that bolt the threads do not go to the end of the
bolt.
the best way is to mod a pointed air chisel so it gives you the best aim
and control,and also hold it up right tight to the end of the bolt so it
has very little travel in the chisel. on a 95 monte for example you will
have to make the chisel short to the point of only 1/2 inch past the spring
in the air hammer and be prepared for a long day on the particular car if
the botls are frozen.