This 2004 Saab 9-3 decided to become a BEACHED WHALE and DRAIN it’s battery in the parking lot.
It won’t even let you turn the Ignition Key from “LOCK”!
Message says “STEERING LOCK MALFUNCTION, Contact SAAB Dealer!”
Well, that’s not an option.
And a good Steering Lock Module is UNOBTANIUM!
Can we BYPASS this stupid Steering Lock Security system, and make the SAAB BETTER THAN FACTORY? Let’s see if there’s a way…
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Enjoy!
Ivan
 SAAB IMMOBILIZED?! Drains Battery! (Steering Lock MALFUNCTION)')){kind=link}
Have you heard the expression (a bull in a china closet) ☺.
I just got the same error week ago, I will be able to lock the vehicle with the key fob after this fix? Currently doesn’t let me lock or unlock with key fob, rear latch doesn’t close either. (2007 Saab aero wagon). Thanks
SAAB-
Seriously Awful And Broken
With all do respect, but you have created a whole new dangerous system;
by inhibiting the ignition key to get Locked, it can fall out of the ISM,
? probably, risking the steering lock to engage -while driving ! ! !
I have repaired many of them, it is an interruption electronically inside the ISM,
failing to release the key -when off.
Thanks for the video: When the cable is drawn, do you have just one cable? Or do you need one more… i don't understand how the start button works after this?
So in there for this to work, the steering lock has to be removed?
Also I love all of your videos. I learn so much. I know I’ll have to go back and like all of your videos. Sorry I work on cars too so you know how crazy a mechanics schedule can be
Trade it for a Vespa lol. Swedes used to make amazing cars. What happened?
The proper solution is to clean the ignition switch carefully!
bro how are you so smart
Thanks for the video, I have a 2008 saab tdi 1.9 that was previously owned by an architect with 170k miles. Well looked after vehicle and drives a dream on the motorway!
I had the same problem on ‘08 9-3, same message. Battery drain was traced to the ISM, replaced it, everything works fine now.
Have you had a problem with misfires? If yes, how did you solve it, please help
My 2006 Volvo S60; similar issue- key won't turn; faulty ignition cylinder solenoid lock pin. Bypassed it with a cotterpin drilled into the lock cylinder holding down the lock pin so it won't engage. The only drawback- can't lock steering. I'm living with it. A new module is $400… a new cotterpin is $0.00004 cents.
why not just change the icm and solve the problem, not make it worse stupid video
Bypass it remove the steering lock and just use a separate push button switch, I have done a lot of this garbage cars for years now, no parts available.
Hello Ivan & ALL other DIY-tubers:
with all my respect :
IMHO you have created your additional problems ;-?
With ALL electronically & computers controlled vehicles, SAABs and others,
one should always first off let the system go to standby or sleep,
and only than disconnect all battery power,
AND ONLY AFTER this start disconnecting or Re-connecting ANY module(s).
Moreover start reading the WiS in depth & understand it.
ISM is merely a key/card reader, +B & +X are control signals,
X is from EPS module to state <5Kmph so standstill so to speak.
and for an Automatic : shifter needs to be in Park.
as is +15 compares to the good 'old' ACC (power after contact).
+30 is straigth constnt Battery power, etc . . .
And wiggeling keys violentelly will not help at all. just more surface scratches ;-?
If there isn't yet damage done, you could try: removing all power of car, wait,
and re-connect AND WAIT a while, so the system can re-initialise, . . .
Lots of DTCs and unrecognised modules should disppear ;-?
Or are yet damaged beyond auto-self repair, RiP.
Sorry, don't wanna insult someone, but I think LOTs of ISMs, CiMs, etc . . .
are often replaced unnecessary, and this by lots of people with lots of fancy tools & readers.
And that's not just on SAABs.
Battery drain is only because your system won't go to sleep.
I don't think modern cars are over complicated, but its DiY-troubleshooters' lack of
electronically software-based insights, . . . I am not blaming U
On the otherhand, I do belief that if one gets better educated in these modern things,
people would safe themselfs A LOT of money and griefs.
Hi, i think you should NEVER swap units or modules in overall electronically controlled vehicles, and than
SAAB and other makes,
without first letting the system go into standby/sleep and only than disconnect battery power.
If you didn't do that first: you create a lot of uncontrolled DTCs, and whatsoever erratic behavior.
Hence lights that sudden remain lit, or other rare random things.
The ISM-unit in our SAABs is merely a key / card reader, hence why it doesn't need re-marrying with the system.
I would strongly disadvice in disabling that solenoid from retaining the key while driving.
Imagine on Highway speeds, your key falls out, perhapse the steering lock engages, . . .
a recepy for disaster to my humble opinion.
I am to confronted with a stuck key-fob.
I am going to install me, a two diode wired OR-config, with an external switch, as to enable me to
activate that soldenoid, as to enable me of getting my key out, when I want it to.
Read WiS, the CiM needs to see a speed below <5Kmph (at standstill so to speak) and tranny in P,
than it signals the ISM thru that X-signal line, that it is OK to release the key.
And B+ or +15 is like the old Acc (after contact) battery voltage feed ;-?
IMHO, those cars are not over engineered, or over complicated,
you just need an electronics degree, for working DiY on them.
As this goes for ALL automakers by know.
I just hope I can remain driving my autogas Saab, until I RiP,
because those EEV's are a whole different ball-game, to DiY on, . . .
Their software makes it rather impossible to read out DTCs for example ;-?
Bypass the ism, i can hear the fuel pump turn on and then when wire up and hit the starter it doesnt start
Could you have wired a piggybacked relay controlled by the ignition switch start position to apply the ground to the starter relay when the key was turned to start? Or would that back feed somehow? Maybe ignition position status during the key turn sequence might be messed up so maybe you'd have to isolate the start circuit past the switch, so the switch would only power that starter relay leg, without back feeding the entire start position circuit? Maybe the start and run circuits at the switch would have to be jumpered in this configuration so the key status stays on run even though you're turning it past run to start to switch on the relay. The button works, I just think it's more ghetto than using the switch, could this have been achieved like I'm thinking?
i wonder that the SCL is not part of the immobilizer system like on Mercedes, BMW, etc…these kind of hacks will not apply on newer cars!