Having Issues with your 2007-2011 9-3 2.0 Not Starting Right? This Could Be what's wrong!

Having Issues with your 2007-2011 9-3 2.0 Not Starting Right? This Could Be what's wrong!

Welcome to the Channel! In today’s episode I show you how the intake valves on the 2007-2011 Saab 9-3 with 2.0 and 2011 Saab 9-5 can wear making the engine lose compression. I also show you how to compression test the engine and talk about how to fix the issue. This is a common issue with 2007-2009 Saab 9-3 2.0 more than any other years, and there is a TSB from Saab that goes with it that does include the 2010-2011 9-3 as well as the 2011 9-5. The TSB is below.

TSB:
Title: RE-ISSUE: Hard Starting Cold With Engine Misfire and Low Compression, Vehicle Starts and Runs Normally When Hot 2007-11 9-3 B207 & 2011 9-5 A20NFT

Date: 12/17/2013
To: All Saab OSC’s/WSP’s
From: SPNA Technical Assistance
______________________________________________

MODELS:
2007-2008 Saab 9-3 B207R (This PI does not apply to the B284 engine)
UPDATE: This condition could also occur on 2009-11 B207 or 2011 9-5 A20NFT
CONDITION/CONCERN:
A Technician may comment of hard or no starting when cold. They may also find engine misfires with DTC’s P0300, P0301, P0302, p0303 or p0304. The vehicle will start and run normally when hot.
RECOMMENDATIONS/INSTRUCTIONS:
This condition may be caused by a worn intake valve and is typically found on vehicles with 50,000 or more miles. Due to the nature of this issue it can be more frequent in cold climates and could exhibit the condition at a lower mileage; inversely in warmer climates it may occur at a higher mileage.
TAC has found intake valve wear of the valve seat face will cause significant compression loss in cold temperatures that will not be readily apparent when hot.
To properly diagnose this condition perform a cold (after an overnight stay is best) compression and leak down test. As an example, an engine with a 150-175 psi hot cranking compression reading may only show 75 to 90 psi when cold.
Once a Technician has determined he has the above described concern he must initiate a Technical Assistance Center (TAC) case by email at xxxx or by phone at xxxxx prompt #3. TAC will provide the full information on the parts/repair procedure when the case is set.
Parts Required: Inlet valve 2007 to 2011, BioPower 55563529 (8 required)
______________________________________________

To do the compression test you will need:
Spark Plug Socket w/Extension
10mm Socket (to remove coil packs)
T30 Torx (to remove coil pack cover)
Compression Tester (I used a Bosch Unit that I can’t find the PN for — find one similar at your local parts store)
Needle Nose Pliers (to remove Fuse #2 in front of the battery box — Fuel Pump fuse)

I’ve fixed this issue by removing the head from a 2008 9-3 2.0 and replacing it with a 2003 9-3 2.0 (Sedan not Convertible) head that I had completely machined and went through at a local shop. You MUST use the cams from your car, not that come with the replacement head if you go this route.

Looking at just replacing the valves like the TSB says? here’s a link to the recommended valves.
Link: https://www.esaabparts.com/saab/parts/55563529

Looking at doing the job yourself. Use WIS! (and get the right cam locks)
WIS: http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=33310

Thank you for viewing my video! There will be more to come.

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E-Mail: saabdrwi@gmail.com
Website: www.saabdr.com
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This video is to be a guide to help people see how to work on their Saab. If you want to see the exact factory directions please look at the Saab Workshop Information System referenced above (WIS). That will give you the exact factory Saab tech guide to working on your Saab. This method incorporates tricks learned from years of working on Saabs. If you have any questions please let me know. This channel is not liable for any injury or death that may occur from someone working on their car. Thank you!

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Comments

Saab Dr says:

Hey everyone — looks like my audio wasn't fixed how I tried to fix it (software fix). It'll be fixed in the next one (need to get a mono to stereo adaptor). Sorry about that!

Liam says:

hey joe,

you think a compression test is ok? I saw some dude say he tested with a leak down tester. But ive done the comp test and also a shop did it twice.. no compression issues. Im having these symptoms but still wonder… lol

Jose Cuevas says:

Hi,can you change the valve without changing the valve guides on an 07 saab 9-3 2.0t.

BuddhatheBlackDog says:

thank you for this public service!

Z R says:

dock lol i have a 2008 saab 9-3 convertible 2.0t i have that ruffing issue I opened the spark plug now I see old on the end part valve gasket is good just changed it. so I got a 2003 liner heard from lkq its good but I noticed they have this extra hose attach to it. now can I just fit that 2003 2.0t liner head on my 2008 9-3 2.0t really need help and afraid to take the turbo part off. please help. your the man!

Caffina says:

what mileage does this start occuring at?

Scott Moore - Central Peel SS (2522) says:

Diagnosed to the “t”. Great video. I have a 2007, 280k kilometres and I am in Toronto Ontario. I’ve had this issue for the last 4 years along with a broke fuel gauge, broken driver window motor, 4 broken springs, and headlights that need replacing every 6 months. Any of this sound familiar? I just wanted to say, the car owes me nothing, and although it has a rough start, I think of it as a rough starting muscle car that takes a minute to warm up. I’ve flooded the engine a couple times over the years, but I am always able to start it, by flooring the gas pedal, maximize air intake. It’s at that point, with the rust surfacing in a couple of spots, it’s too costly to repair for the life I figure I can get out of it. If I fix this value issue, the fuel sending unit, AC, calipers, sensors and maf will be next. But, I still enjoy driving it! Here’s to another couple years. Fingers crossed.

Kevin Carboni50 says:

Hey I need help Saab dr so I have a 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0t and I changed my whole fuel system and about a couple times a month when I try to start the car sometimes I have to crank it 2 times with my foot on the accelerator all the way for it to start and then sometimes after that it will have a really rough idle and sometimes will blow a lot of white smoke out of the engine and I can’t find the problem the check engjne light comes on and goes every once in a while and the engine at idle has a really really really small misfire I mean you can barely hear it I replaced all spark plugs coil packs and injectors and fuel pressure regulator and man I tell you I’m STUMPED I have no idea what it is and it’s honestly sad man can I give you my phone number or some way to contact you and we can talk about this cause it’s crazy also if you put your ear to the exhaust it was a very small faint pop like a misfire

L ST says:

I don't know if you're still trying to comments on here but could a block heater be used as a band-aid until the problem could get fixed?

Tiddle says:

youre audio sucks

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