Rack & Pinion steering gears look like they are really hard to replace. Sure, some are more difficult than others. But many are not that bad. The Ford Escape…
Rack & Pinion R&R
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pinion, Rack
- Categories: Oldsmobile
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Behind the steering wheel is a part called a “Clock Spring” if the steering
wheel is turned too many times in either direction it will break and is
expensive/difficult to replace. This means that BEFORE you disconnect any
tie rod ends loosen the steering knuckle bolt leaving it in just a few
threads so that it can be removed completely later with fingers easily.
Then center the front wheels for driving straight level and lock the
steering wheel, I use the seat belt twisted for fine tune. Then crack free
the nut on the inner tie rod threaded bar, then remove the outer tie rod to
spindle nut.(he did it with an air gun) Use a brass/copper hammer instead
of steel one or a tool called a “pickle fork” (I have an air hammer adapter
set) to separate the outer tie rod from the spindle arm if difficult.(boot
damage can occur) Remove the steering knuckle bolt and I use angled pry
bars to separate. (not always easy) Count the rotations when removing both
outer tie rod ends and note nut positions for reassembly accuracy. (of
course you still need an alignment to set the tow with precision) The rest
is up to your specific vehicle to disconnect/reconnect the lines and
remove/reinstall the rack. Just as important as rethreading the outer tie
rod ends back onto the inner tie rods threaded bar with 99.9+% accuracy is
before installing the rack in the vehicle is to turn the steering shaft
from end to end counting the amount of rotations. (3 1/2 ?) Divide this
value in half taking that number starting from one end of the rotation stop
and “center the rack” (this would be the position if the rack was installed
and the vehicle is going straight) It is real important to get this
steering shaft position 99.9+% perfect and not let it rotate during
installation until you have the steering knuckle attached to the shaft with
bolt inserted. In case you were wondering I have been preforming automotive
repair since 1976, 1990 professionally and am ASE Certified. (not that it
matters…stupid idiot tests where they try to trick you instead of test
your knowledge)
Is it much different on a 2006 Buick Rendezvous?
In this tech’s defense:
am aware of the various ways to separate tie rod ends on my escape, a tie
rod end puller will work, however a knock with a mallet may do more to save
the(super important) threads on the rod end and give more resistance to the
cotter pin secured “jesus” castle nut. While I am a locksmith not an ase
cert mechanic I have the pullers and adapters, I mostly work with soft
brass parts and not steel stuff as my experiences go with threaded thru
shafts that its a whole lot better to free the shaft by lateral
manipulation than it is to pound/press the the threads through a bind in
shaft situation.
What tools can you to remove the steering nuckle.
The guys who do the work to put these videos together are princes among men
as far as I am concerned. And when your mechanic explains to you that you
will have to leave the vehicle with them for a couple of days in order to
get to it and get the job done that’s all part of the sales gimmick. Do you
really want to know that they will be done in a few hours when they are
charging you $700? But exercise caution if you don’t have the right
equipment on hand, or leave it to professionals.
@jeepers. I know what you mean. I do all my work on the ground, with logs
as my axle stands and big river rocks for my tire stops. Really. I dont
recommend but safer then an axle stand. Just looked up the hrs for the job
6.1hrs@ $80hr. Cheaper then going and getting it done by someone else.
@irishgod84 Sounds like BS to me-as far as I know, you immediately get an
alignment, not wait a week-that makes no sense to me. It’s a car, not a
house…I don’t see why it would need to “settle” before the alignment.
From 1:58 to 2:05-That’s what she said!
your suppose to remove the bolt connecting the high pressure line with a
wrench not a pry bar
2005 and it needs a rack and pinion, what a piece of garbage. i have 2 1991
chevy cavaliers and a 1987 pontiac bonneville all of them are as old as
“dirt” and they all have over 100K miles on them and none of them have ever
had the rack and pinon replaced. i guess stuff was just made better 20+
years ago. my 1 1991 chevy cavalier is my baby. 1991 cavalier convertable
3.1 RS has never seen a winter and probably never will. needs a new top
though
I wish I would have seen this vid about a year ago! I never thought to drop
the sub frame. Exelent vid as always guys!
It’s probably your axle.. Youtube “axle shaft removal” and look for
myturbodieseldotcom video.. He demonstrates the sound that it makes
@Chris07860 There’s 2 seals on the rack and pinion assembly where the tie
rods come out that actually seal the pressurized fluid inside the rack and
pinion. The boots cover up these seals so you can’t see them from the
outside. Those seals are what’s actually leaking which is why the rack and
pinion’s being replaced. There’s supposed to be NO fluid at all inside
those boots. The purpose of the boots is just to keep dirt and dust off
those seals.
Does any one know if you have to drive the vehicle for about a week, and
get a front end allignment for the vehicle to run properly after a rack and
pin job? I was told this by multiple sources but it just does not sound
right to me.
dude, get some gloves before you get skin cancer.
@MrVindog1992 He did. They just didn’t bother to show the actual unscrewing
of the bolt.
Thanks for making this video. I appreciate the way you explained the Whole
process taking the viewer step by step. I feel confident that I attempt it.
Some things are better left to the professionals.
I can’t believe I paid almost a $1000 to the Chrysler dealer to do this and
plus they had my car for 2 days a few years ago. 2 different mechanic
wanted $700+ to do this today and told me i would have to leave the car and
pick it up tomorrow even after i had already brought the new parts. all it
need was installing. well i did it myself, all it cost was $149 in parts
3hrs+ and a nice cold one to drink after the test drive, all i need now is
alignment.& yes cold one was after the test drive.
Great video man. You gave a lot of good, useful advice. Thanks.
very good tip thanks very much for posting, jose’
1 1/2 hours later
Thanks for posting. I did this repair on a 2000 Chevy Venture. What a
beast. I never could get the boot back on and figured that the mileage on
the car would justify skipping the boot. This was a difficult repair in a
home garage without a lift. Lying prone of the floor with the subframe
supported but inches from my chest was scary. I have an Alero with the same
problem, but I think I’ll take it to a pro.
tip that worked for me just when doing outer tie rods, put a quick squirt
of grey primer on the adjusting nut and inner tie rod threads, let it dry
for a few minutes and you have an even more accurate measurement of where
the nut goes
I’ll just pay someone to do this.
@INCC74656I Reman. Racks usually only come with the inner tie rod ends not
the outer ones.
@sbakar as an ase certified technician, you are not permitted to cut
corners. that badge on your arm represents a commitment to customers
(automotive SERVICE excellence) that you will do EVERY job BY THE BOOK to
ensure customer satisfaction. furthermore, this is a “how-to,” video, the
instructor in the video should at least mention that the recommended tool
for the job is a three jaw puller, not a mallet.
Horn blows, what about the driver?
Excelent job. Luv it
@Chris07860 when the rack is replaced, so are the inner tie rods, so a mark
on the old parts wouldn’t help much.
You were very informative
I was replacing the struts and inner tire rods on my Chrysler 300m when i
saw the rack and pinion was worn badly were the tire rods were connected to
it and leaking, on like most cars the rack and pinion is remove from below,
my car was up top in the engine bay, To do so you have remove the wind
shield wipers, air vent shields, entire air filter housing, a few hoses,
and 2 main wire connecters.The hardest thing to do was remove the bolt from
steering shaft .Entire job took 3 hrs.it was fun.
Thanks a lot man 4 share your VIDEO.
5:08 AAHAAH!! I knew you weren’t doing the work
They make it so hard to work on cars all they care about are the looks..
Just jam everything in one little area and who cares if you have to fix it
someday….
The boot are replaceable, but what good is it to replace a boot for a badly
leaking rack seal. rubber and oil done mix too well and will ruin the new
boot. Changing a rack n’ pinion can be a bear sometimes and very messy, but
the satisfaction afterward is like a big O.
Thank you for posting this video. Big help.
how much dose this cost ?
lots of great info..i love your vids.
Now I know why mecanic work ain’t cheap. Lot’s of work has to be done on
vehicles. I have a 2004 chevrolet silverado truck, and when I put it in
drive and turn the wheel all the way to the right or left, I keep hearing a
clunking sound, sounds like its coming from the right front side, or in the
middle. Just had new inner tie rod put in, and this noise is there now. I
wish I knew whats wrong with it. Had rotors turned, new front pad, and
front end alignment, and still doing this. Please help.