http://www.v8tvshow.com – In this chapter, we’re fabricating the hardware and tubing needed to install the Bulleseye Power 75 MM extended tip turbo from Outl…
http://www.v8tvshow.com – In this chapter, we’re fabricating the hardware and tubing needed to install the Bulleseye Power 75 MM extended tip turbo from Outl…
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im the 3333 viewer.
Better of “purging” them tig welds… 😉
More than double that!
I like how you guys made the Y-pipe out of the X-pipe looks pretty trick. Almost reminds me of how the exhaust’s set up on an 80s g-body
Bullseye Power Turbo Video Install Part 3 – S71 Olds Project V8TV
Where is part three?
Looks like a diesel turbo turned to race turbo?
Won’t putting the inter-cooler in front of the radiator affect the efficiency of the radiator so it won’t cool as much as it should? I have no clue about this, so I have to ask 🙂
how much hp u think this car will have when its done like 400???
SWEET DEAL I BEEN A NITROUS GUY BUT THAT LOOKS LIKE A GREAT TURBO DEAL INTRESTED TO SEE HOW FAST CAR GO ?
The engine is also solidly mounted to the chassis.
Are you supporting the turbo on to the chassis? wont this interfere with the engine movement?
You’re on the right track… the Chevelle and Cutlass are both A bodies, but man, are the inner fenders different. We ended up cutting up an old Chevelle inner and making a hybrid piece on the passenger side. You’ll see it in the next chapter!
Why not just use the steel Inner wheel wells for a Chevelle or an f body there should be tons of cheap tin out there !
this is gonna be a sweet car the time it takes to build will def pay off in the long run, one of a kind car
No problem, just wanted to articulate our thought process. Thanks for the kind words, and we hope you like the rest of this build series! Feel free to post any more questions you come up with!
first off thank you for the education 2 i really wasn’t trying to be rude about it and 3 i would like to see a segment on those rear mounted vs the front mount turbo and 4 i am a huge cutlass fan love the car and i am huge fan of you guy’s vids i watch everyone and 5 keep up the good work i think you guys are genious when it comes resto modding better than any foose or coddington god rest his soul
Yep, it’s a big turbo exhaust, which is why we necked it down to a more manageable 3″.
… they are not as efficient as well. To date, there is no “kit” for these cars, we’d end up doing significant fabrication as well. And the rear-mount turbo company is now offering intercoolers as well, illustrating that the long cool side run does not remove the heat from the charge air very well. All power adders have benefits and drawbacks, we wanted to perform a proven install strategy on this car. And we like seeing the turbo up front.
Turbos operate with heat, so the closer you get the turbo to the exhaust source, the more efficiently it works. The Bell intercooler is far more efficient at reducing air charge temperatures than a rear mounted turbo. Plus, the shorter your oiling system can be, the more reliable it will be. Rear mount turbos work, but they are more of a packaging band-aid. They offer pressure loss over the length of the car, place the turbo in the elements, and…
Thanks! We did not grind the welds on the exhaust. Most of it was TIG welded, but the MagnaFlow mods were MIG welded. The turbo flange and mount are mild steel, as we knew we wanted to ceramic coat them black. The exhaust is stainless. The intake tubing is coated mild steel as well, as you’ll see in the next video.
Did you grind welds on exhaust system? What steel did you use to fabricate exhaust and turbo flange? Stainless or not? Looks very, very nice.
i kinda understand but i think id gone with a smaller turbo 5 inch exhaust exit HOLY CRAP!!
looking forward to seeing/hearing it run
what i don’t understand is why did you have to mount the turbo under the hood when they make universal turbo kits that mount at rear bumper area of the car and the cold side of the turbo wouldn’t require a intercooler unless you wanted one because the cold side is long and outside the engine bay and plus the trurbo would run cooler because it too is outside the engine bay just curious to why you wasted time and money doing this other than to line your own pockets
.. that this is a 422 cubic inch stroker V8. Even with the stock manifolds providing less than 100% optimal flow, we have the ability to make far more power than this car will be able to put to the ground. After all, it’s a street driven car, not a race car. So weighing the cost / benefits of slightly more power (that we may not be able to use) vs. high cost of stainless fabled headers, we kept the manifolds.
We chose this route because of several factors. First, the factory manifolds lent themselves to this design rather nicely, and we wanted to avoid expensive custom stainless headers if we could. This is an Olds engine, so everything would have to be custom. The manifolds are iron, so they will last, and the work is already done. And they package really tightly in the car, which is nice. Also keep in mind..
ah well then its a great looking setup BUT the use of the original manifold with that looong that goes backwards then 180`s back up some parts dosent really promote flow why no headers?
Talking to you, of course!
We made a steel inner fender using a piece from a Chevelle… you’ll see it in the next video.