How to change the AC/alternator belt in your 4th gen Maxima. As said, this applies to 5th (’00-’01), 5.5 (’02-’03), and 6th (’04-08) gens. Access to the main…
1995-2008 Nissan Maxima: AC/Alternator belt replacement
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19952008, AC/Alternator, Belt, Maxima, Nissan, Replacement
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I hope you still look at this. The new belts are to big. I have tried two
different belts and replace the tensioner. Still when I put the belt on and
tighten it, slack slack slack.. What could be the problem..
Yes, I put the link in the description.
Just to make it possible to film. Removing the wheel, or even jacking the
car up just adds unneeded complexity to the job.
For a beginner like me, I will be using a torque wrench. How would one use
a torque since there is no space for a socket torque wrench to tighten the
pulley nut? Thanks.
Do u have Any instructions on how to replace the power steering belt?
Great video. Do you have a video on replacing the AC compressor? I believe
mine is shot and could be the reason that my Alternator belt has
disappeared…
did you take off the tire to make it easier???
I replaced the alternator, battery, battery terminals, and the ignition
switch but occasionally the battery light and the brake light and the
headlights flicker when I start it. Any idea what is wrong?
my belt completely popped off the battery light came on in the car, and the
coolant in the radiator started to boil, is that also connected with the
alternator belt some how?
gtot a video on removing/installing the alternator
No, the water pump on the VQ is chain driven, a thrown belt should not
affect your cooling system at all. However, if you drove with no alternator
for a while and your battery could not supply the current necessary to
drive both cooling fans, it’s possible you could see an overheat condition.
I would think the engine would die first, but it’s possible.
Not yet, but it’s on the list.
Wait so this isnt the serpentine belt?
@Ruef23 Could be faulty brand new parts, or more likely a wiring problem.
Best thing to do is have the charging system tested. When you have concrete
numbers on how it’s performing, that can give a clue as to what’s wrong.
@tank7500sw Just a 14mm wrench for the nut itself, then another wrench for
more leverage.
A torque adapter or crowsfoot would be required, but I really wouldn’t
worry about torquing it to spec.
hello all. i still cant manage to put the damn belt on my alternator, the
compressor, and between the tightener pulley and a pulley that is connected
to an internal belt. Now i tried disconnecting all the parts one by one to
see if the belt will give any slack, but it doesnt. i also tried to loosen
the belt bolt, as mentioned in the video, and it doesnt really help. So
basically i replaced the alternator and now i cant seem to put the belt
back on…. Help please.
how tight should all three belts be?
There are only 2 belts. The specs for both belts are in the FSM, in MA.
Assuming new belts, the AC/alt belt should have 3.8-4.1 mm deflection
between the compressor and crank pulley. PS belt should have 5.8-6.2 mm
deflection on the bottom side.
@plamster You could call it that if you’d like. I don’t just because it
doesn’t drive all the accessories…personal preference, really.
Yes, compressor video here – watch?v=UKulYTlhfeA
What tool combination did you use when releasing the idler pulley nut.?
@theejock What is this ‘internal belt’ pulley you’re talking about? Compare
the pulley sizes between the old and new alternators. Some can be close
enough in size to not be a noticeable difference at a glance, but enough so
that the belt will no longer fit.