1995-2003 Nissan Maxima: Lower control arm replacement

1995-2003 Nissan Maxima: Lower control arm replacement

How to remove and replace the lower control arm in your 4th/5th/5.5 gen Maxima. 6th gen+ use a subframe, so different procedure. I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me while filming, but you…

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boredmder says:

A pickle fork is fine, if you’re replacing the LBJ (and have enough room to
get both it and a hammer in there). If you’re dropping the LCA for bushing
replacement, you wouldn’t want to use a pickle fork as you’ll damage the
balljoint boot, which will lead to premature joint failure. FWIW I’ve never
had a problem using this method, nor has anyone I’ve worked with. Maybe
you’re missing the word ‘temporarily’, as it quickly returns to its
original shape.

jsimsagin says:

omg never bang on any part of your car ” temporarily miss shape”.. no
good..pickle fork man come on..other wise good video…never missshape a
part u are putting back on, setting yourself up for problems.

boredmder says:

Engine, suspension, brakes, interior, or what? Yes to all 4.

boredmder says:

Change out the entire end link, if the bushings are worn or gone the ball
joint on the end link probably isn’t all that great, either. Those are the
only two ways to really get the KS out without removing the UIM/LIM. It’s
much easier if you do, but that’s a job in and of itself.

boredmder says:

Yes, I’ve got a few waiting for me to edit, render, and upload, just have
to get around to it.

boredmder says:

Get a longer breaker bar. If you just can’t get it out, it might be time to
apply some heat.

gtown03boy says:

As you still making videos on you maxima. All of them are really helpful…

tuch2244 says:

How much would it cost to have this job done on a 2000 Dodge Stratus.
Replace the lower control arm with ball joint.

deezomaxima says:

I have a bad ball joint but I think i’m going just going to get more
control arms and replace them.

omer pasha says:

bro wanted to ask is it better to change the bushings on the sway bar link
or change the whole unit plz respond urgently. by the way love ur channel
have a maxima as well learned a lot from ur videos. if u dont mind the
video on knock sensor can u plz show an easier way of accessing it

boredmder says:

@ctl46 14mm socket and wrench for the end links, 22mm socket or wrench for
LCA bolts and ball joint nut. And of course a hammer, floor jack,
jackstands, pry bar, side cutters, typical stuff. Air tools (or any power
tool) save a lot of time here. If you’re looking to swap out the bushings,
you’ll also need a 27mm socket for the link bushing pin nut.

boredmder says:

I used an open ended wrench to break loose the balljoint nut just prior to
the video. I also got the ball joint stud loose with a hammer before
filming, just to make the filming easier. Also I was lucky enough to be
working with two vehicles that had zero rust, so it’s definitely a YMMV
situation.

boredmder says:

Should be all but identical.

boredmder says:

Are you sure it isn’t just the ball joint stud spinning with the nut? Worst
case scenario, you may have to cut it off. Generally if you can get a grip
with some vice grips on the stud itself, you can get the bolt off. That, or
try an impact (though you’d need to remove the axle to get on there).

boredmder says:

Many do that instead of replacing the ball joints themselves, if your LCA
bushings are worn out it’s probably cheaper overall, if you include labor.

peanutfallacy says:

Yeah been banging on that spindle for hours ball join aint coming out at all

Jgizzy -redacted- says:

It looks like you already broke that ball joint nut loose prior to the
video — using an open ended socket?? When I tried this, I rounded off the
nut because it was too tight. After cutting the nut off, I pried on the
ball joint like you did (in your video it comes out like butter with
minimal effort) yet when I did it, the pry bar bent before it would finally
pop the joint out which required me prying with my body weight while
smacking the knuckle with a hammer. Disappointing

macseven74 says:

my bolt on the ball joint wont come off at all. im afraid if i keep trying
to turn it I will strip it..any advice??????

chad t says:

Hey man im in the middle of the job and one of the 22mm headbolts wont come
out on the silver metal part that fastens the control arm in. tried air
tools, breaker bar and socket, wont come out. Any advice??

2008Flyboy says:

Are there any major differences between the 4th and 5th gen?

joseppi2219 says:

Is this the same procedure for a 2000 maxima? Or 5th gen? I’m getting loud
hard thumping or clunking over bumps in series… Or multiple bumps in rd..

boredmder says:

Not familiar with the job myself, but I show 1.4 for R&R, and OE price on
the LCA to be ~$320. Assuming $80/hr labor rate and a dealer part, you’d be
looking at ~$450.

ctl46 says:

Can you post a list of the minimum tools needs to complete this job?

boredmder says:

If you’re replacing the LBJ, a pickle fork will come in handy for
separation.

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