Ford Lincoln Mercury 4.6L Intake Manifold Relacement Part 2

Ford Lincoln Mercury 4.6L Intake Manifold Relacement Part 2

http://www.apdty.com/searchitem.epc?lookfor=APD_726289,APD_726286 Click the above link to find the Intake Manifold for your vehicle. In this video we’ll show…

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APDTY says:

According to the standard accepted labor rate book, the intake manifold job itself calls for 4.8 Hours of labor, and the water pump 0.9 hours of labor. So if the shop you use charges $100 per hour for labor, you’d be looking at $570 in labor.

Mario Myers says:

how much labor on this job+water pump replacment

APDTY says:

Yes the gaskets are replaceable, but they are not interchangeable with the original gaskets. Feel free to give us a call and we can help you find the replacement gaskets you would need.

YourePrettyGoood says:

Hello! Thanks for the vid! I am wondering though can the gaskets on this intake manifold be changed if they go bad? I put this intake on about a year ago and my cylinder #1 gasket has apparently failed since it sucks an ungodly amount of air in now.

APDTY says:

Are you getting any warning lights on the dashboard? (check engine, etc..) ? If you are, the first thing you would need to do would be to find out what the trouble codes are that are stored in the computer, this should help point in the right direction to what is wrong.

Revified says:

ive recently done this on my crown vic it has the same engine but now when i try to step on my gas all the way my car wont get up and go it takes off reel slowly and act likes its runnin out of gas any sugestions on what it might be

APDTY says:

You would have to read the trouble codes from the computer to see why the service engine light is on, that should help guide in the direction as to what’s wrong. It could be something as simple as an plug inadvertently being left undone.

Brian Shine says:

just finished replacing the manifold. I hear a light ticking noise from the engine when the hood is up. the service engine light is also on. any ideas? I changed spark plugs. did I get a bad one, possibly?

Brian Shine says:

thanks for taking the time to record this. I also am walking around with my chest stuck out. grunt grunt.

SEVEN MSF says:

Ok I got the manifold off going to put the new one on tomorrow. Pat-n my self on the back and walking around the house with my chest stuck out!!!
You are awesome!!!

APDTY says:

I used a high-speed gasket cleaning tool and some solvent to get it shiny afterwards. 

SEVEN MSF says:

what did you clean the mounting surface with?

APDTY says:

that is odd, the car in this video is a 2000 model year.

lithdoc says:

What year is this car?

I have a 1999 and there’s one issue that drives me nuts! I could swear I had a coolant temperature sensor up in the front, on the passenger side, on the coolant crossover – much like yours does in this video. But now, all I have is a plug, much like on the driver’s side, and for the life of me I cannot find the harness that would potentially connect to it.

Danny B says:

If only it was a blower…

Polish4you says:

Great video. I need to change out the intake manifold gasket out of a V6 Econoline 250. What other preventative maintenance do you recommend? How much on average does a service such as this cost?

W1LLk1LLzYoU says:

i just did this on my 2000 grand marquis, only i knew the manifold was cracked when my car overheated on the freeway because it didnt have any coolant left lol

APDTY says:

Using Teflon tape is a good idea on that sensor, that will insure a good seal and also prevent the sensor from seizing within the intake manifold in case you ever have to take it off in the future. Any kind of teflon tape would work (or paste).

IamTheSmunge says:

Do you need to put teflon tape or something on the temperature water sensor before replacing it? If so, what kind of teflon tape or what do you recommend? Thanks

Tim Butler says:

One other thing I read somewhere, I wish I had read before I did this was to just cut that crash bar in two with a grinder or cutting wheel, so future repairs will be ton easier (also it would sit down better and wouldn’t be in the way of the throttle body…) Of course you do NOT have crash protection…

Tim Butler says:

I had 2 issues! 1. DON’T torque bolts holding the radiator outlet hose, cast iron outlet flange will snap, (cost me another $33). 2. Crash bracket over the drivers fuel rail (which really sucks to take out) sits too high for the throttle body to sit correctly on the NEW manifold!!! ARGH, so had to loosen back bolt, yes pain in the arsse, and let it drop a little, then tighten it AFTER I put throttle body on.. Lastly, engine was locked after doing this, give lot gas and started on 7th try..

APDTY says:

Hi, I think you are talking about on the alternator bracket/brace? There are a couple holes on that part that only get used depending on the specific vehicle application, it is nothing to worry about. Thanks

falcon818 says:

What’s the hole on the brace next to the thermostat about I finger space to the left??
Does it stay open ??

K Man says:

This video helped me threw the whole processes, Thanks!

SmokeRises says:

Before reinstalling the alternator clean the surface to insure a good ground.lack of ground will cause charging problems.

cvbhoustonprez says:

Mines is leakin aroung the thermostat housing

cvbhoustonprez says:

How much u paid of the manifold

APDTY says:

Technically you should torque it, the problem is that the bracket blocks another bolt further back on the intake manifold. you should be okay going out of sequence and skipping this bolt and saving it for the last.

APDTY says:

the most common cause of not starting after a job like this, is missing an electrical connector, I would suggest going back through and verifying that you got every single connector

iioal says:

Do you guys ship this to Canada ?

waco420 says:

no yours should be metal not plastic

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