The 190E is now starting and running great but Kent has a W126 300SE that now won’t start. Seems like an epidemic. Listen to the engine crank and see if you can guess what the problem is. …
Part 6 – How to Fix a Mercedes 190E 300E 300SE That Won’t Start – Another M103 Will Not Fire!
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Clogged fuel lines or injectors, thats my guess.
What does se stand for?
EHA (electro hydraulic actuator) for the fuel distributer may be stuck in
the closed position. It’s used to cut fuel supply during decel or when ign
is off. Could be gummed up from sitting.
The air metering flap flopping freely around like that while cranking tells
me fuel pressure is low
Am going to think EHA valve, and low fuel pressure?
wow, my 190 stood for 9 months on grass, wasnt a good idea at all, but it
fired right up when i got back to it. i was kinda lucky, i guess. i even
left all the ignition parts in the engine bay, and it’s still fine 6 months
after reviving. :)
The ecu fuse is blown. In my case there was no fuse in the slot at all and
after replacing it, everything worked fine.
I think thet the valve getting fuel back to the tank might got struck
open…
When pressing on the air metering flap, it should squirt fuel – absence of
that would be a fuel related issue (pump, filter, line).
I would start at the injectors, remove one, keep it connected and crank and
if they spray – then work backwards.
Next I would measure pressure of fuel getting o the fuel metering block.
But before you continue to crank it, remove a spark plug and smell/verify
of no fuel/or excessive fuel condition.
of course I cant remember what you call it….but it might be that coil
module thing on the side.I hate when I forget the name of things.
Idk.. I’m used to the engine in the 1970’s-1980’s VW Rabbit. Air metering
unit sometimes needs the disc adjusted because it’s slightly off center.
If (system) pressure is good at the distributor then it can’t be the lines
or injectors. All 6 injectors don’t get blocked at the same time.
If it’s a 300 then it will be a KE-Jetronic. I’m not sure about the
electronics. Issue might be because of a faulty warm up regulator is
causing wrong regulating pressure. Wasn’t that air meter flap moving too
easily?
What’s that buzzer in the US cars anyway? I have never heard it in European
ones.
faulty fuel gauge, tank is empty
Fuel Relay module
Clogged EHA or fuel distributor. The engine clearly is not getting enough
fuel.
1. Add 1 gallon of E85 ethanol or isopropyl alcohol to fuel tank to remove
moisture in fuel tank.
2. Test fuel relay (swap with another relay to verify fuel relay is good).
3. If relay good, fuel pump good, and fuel filter not plugged/obstructed;
fuel is being delivered to the fuel distributor. Ken said fuel is arriving
at fuel distributor.
4. At this point, fuel is in gas tank; fuel relay, fuel pump operate. No
fuel restriction (fuel pump not plugged). Measure fuel pressure at fuel
rail (we should now see fuel pressure). If no fuel at fuel rail, fuel line
between fuel distributor and fuel rail is plugged. Poor small amount of
fuel down fuel distributor and try to start.
5. If no start, and fuel line between fuel distributor and fuel rail is
unplugged; then remove distributor cap to see if any moisture inside
distributor cap. Dry as necessary. Are all electrical contact points look
un-burned (should be yes). If burned, replace the cap.
6. Is rotor still attached and contacts not burned( should be yes). If
burned replace it.
7. Is the distributor cap O ring/seal flexible (keeps water out; it should
be yes). If no, replace it.
8. Remove spark plug wires. If rusty/corroded; all spark plug wires
should be replaced. Use di-electric grease on inside of boots.
9. Remove spark plugs and examine. If corroded, replace spark plugs.
stuck feulpump or no power to it (corroded fuse) or the pin in the feul
distributor stuck (bad modern feul) ??