how to remove and replace the center steering link and tie rods on a w202 chassis Mercedes Benz.
how to replace the steering center link and tie rods, Mercedes w202
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shouldn’t be too loose..but a bit of difference between the 2 sides wouldn’t be unusual..do they flop down loosely when you pick up the whole assembly? new ones should be stiff enough to stay straight on their own (not rock hard ,but should require a bit of effort to move)…if one side is really floppy and loose I would suspect maybe the part was dropped or possibly faulty from the factory
just recieved my entire center drag/tie rod and one side seems to be looser than the other side. is that bad?
Thank you. This help me %100. Keep on doing this type of videos
Cheers to Sapporo 🙂
Really helpful and amazing camera control under the vehicle.
Sapporo. Excellent suds.
mine was a Moog part from Rockauto…around 60k km on it since I installed and still good…
What brand did you go with on your centre link and is it still working at top performance as when you put it in? If you don’t mind me asking, Im not sure to get the OEM or not.
the centre link is the entire inner/outer tie rod assembly and steering linkage…the one I replace in the video is the centre link
i need to replace tie rod assembly inner left/right outer left/right USA version w202 what is a center link??
the centre link comes with the outer tie rods attached/included…best bet is to change them all at the same time since you get a better deal buying the whole unit at once anyway…you can get the centre separate from the outer tie rods but it almost isn’t worth the difference in price
On rockauto.com under steering is the center link nd the in and putter tie rod pretty much the same part because they look identical thankless let me know great vid btw
if you aren’t sure that the bushing is good,there is no better time to replace it than while the centre link is replaced..so yes 🙂
would you recommend changing the idler arm bushing while doing this job?
Did you found out what is causing the sound?
I would think a shop would charge around 2 hours in case anything is seized…plus alignment..should be able to be done in an hour before alignment,but I doubt most garages would bill under 2
How much labour should a mechanic quote for? Is an hour maximum? Trying to save as much as possible, this is a bit out of my league for a DIY! thanks
the pop on the passenger side may be the upper bolt that goes through the upper ball joint mount..the one that runs front to back through the strut tower..may be loose…make sure you loosen it first then re-tighten ..do both with all4 wheels on the ground or you could pre-load the upper balljoint bushing…they could possibly be too tight as well….mt front end was knocking when I turned the wheel side to side lightly..I could feel the slop in it
Was your 202 making funny noises in the front end? Mine has a pop on the passenger side. Replaced front shocks and brake rotors and pads. I even went as far as changing the wheel bearing. And the pop still persists. Is their a test onther than having someone rotate the steering wheel and hold onto the said parts? Thanks
the horns should be on the outer side of the radiator…not sure if the relay sends ground to each horn separately or they are wired together..the relay may have 2 contacts one for each horn if they are not wired together
My bad on the delay, just saw this message in my box. THe horn had stopped working but I managed to get it working be messing with the relay. Right now the horn works but only the low side. I was just wondering where the horns are? I’ve looked everywhere besides under the car and browsed the web with no info. I’d want to replace but horns but can’t find the placement. Assuming their underneath as their not in the engine compartment.
yeah sometimes they don’t like to come off..they can be hellish 🙂
I’ve just done mine and had the same problem, so I eventually bought a cup/bolt type Ball Joint Separator and it came off, but it certainly held on till the very last moment.
mine came off with a few whacks on the ball joint fork from underneath…you could try loctite “freeze and release” on the inner tie rod..should shrink it enough to come loose with a couple whacks
thank fupabox. This is a huge help, but I have a question. You say you used a fork to remove the inner tie rods. I can’t get a good position to whack on it. I’m trying pullers but not enough room to get a ratchet or wrench in the engine bay. Tried the extensions down through the bay but the puller keeps slipping off. Any details on how you did the left side inner rod? thanks!
yes the nylon bushing in the window track needs to be replaced..they are only a few $…it takes longer to remove the door panel than to replace the bushing
yes the nylon bushing in the window track needs to be replaced..they are only a few dollars…it takes longer to remove the door panel than to replace the bushing
yes the nylon bushing in the window track needs to be replaced..they are only a few dollars…it takes longer to remove the door panel than to replace the bushing
The upper A arm (LHS) has a little rattle when push by foot. Will find parts and wrench for repair soon. The window regulator (nylon bearing) is broken apart, hard to repair w/o a complete new lifter. Now just seize up with nylon fastener.
60k km is a long way for a small place like HK. Since the past 2-3 years, items broken down and replaced includes gearbox oil pan seal, adapter socket plug seal, fuel pump, fuel filter clogged, small fuel hose to filter, a/c outer condenser, a/c hose, cabinet roof frabic, water pump to thermostat short hose, main beam bulb, vacuum hose connector for beam angle controller, front shock absorber… keeping me busy. Less and less people in HKG like to take care of their cars in detail.
I was saying you got a good price..better than in the USA :)…60k km…wow that’s low…the car will last forever…I have 278k km …yes the airflow sensor can get a bit dirty and affect power..good job 🙂
Hi fupabox, I pay HK$180 for a new pc of steering stabilizer as well, now no more free play and firm steering feel all round. Perhaps the drag link was from China, RMB : weak HKD makes the part more expensive in HK than US. Have a nice day! ^o ^ ( I sprayed the Mass Air Flow Sensor, more powerful pick-up after cleaning, first cleaning since car landed in Dec 1999, now only 60k km done)
you are welcome…wow you get a good deal on parts $88 USD nice 🙂
I am in HK, my W202 inner tie rod rocked and failed to go straight. I pay HK$900 (USD11x) for a new part. Thanks for your precious video, I understand how to repair.
Thanks.