It’s wrong from about 5:47. You try hard but sorry-you’re just an amateur.
You should clean the surface after removing disc to look as a new one. I
work for Continental Teves ATE Braking Center and as a pro I see couple of
faults from the time mentioned. You avoided few things that need to be
done. At last at the end you should use a special plasti lube pasta for the
pads to remove noises and better leading..
first of all… check any leak around the hose, caliper…if no leak, then
bleed the air out of the system completely… did you compress the caliper
piston hard? you probably flip the master cyl. seal…if so, then you need
to replace the master….
Thanks for the video-you’ll save me more than $1000.00 in replacement Just
want to know the torque on the lugs and the bolts on the caliper. Thank
you!!!
Great Video! Very informative. What area of Germany our you from. I’m from
the Stuttgart area live they make the Benz. We has a 1980 280E, a 1988
500SEL, currently have a 2001 E-320, waiting the 2012 E-350 Bluetech in
US-specs. Also you english is very good.
why oh why at 2:40 and after is the caliper wobbling as you struggle to
remove the pads? You had not even removed the mounting bolts till after
4:00? Did you edit this incorrectly? Hopefully? Or were you driving around
like that lol.
I guess it is a bad idea to spray WD-40 all over the place. This is light
greasing and penetrating agent. It can solve dense grease of wheel bearing
when it penetrates under the bearing’s cover. The other thing is that you
sprayed it close to brake pads and let some residues on brake disc. We
should avoid grease on a break pads and disk.
Can you show where you placed the jack stand exactly? Hard to see, and
don’t you have to replace the brake pad wear sensor? And which bolts were
you talking about having locktite on the tips that must be replaced?
@Chippychap Hi, The bots you have to buy seperately, This is essential to
replace them since they have locktite on the tips. I dont know the Torque
value but no – one is strong enough to break them with normal tools. there
are German manuals available on the net.
excellent, you gave me the confidence to do this myself. my pads look
thick. but the discs are heavy worn the lip around the edge is very large,
Im also getting break judder that is starting to get worse.
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Dead brake fluid, the bane of many a sunken pedal. eh? eh?
thx
الفرامل
It’s wrong from about 5:47. You try hard but sorry-you’re just an amateur.
You should clean the surface after removing disc to look as a new one. I
work for Continental Teves ATE Braking Center and as a pro I see couple of
faults from the time mentioned. You avoided few things that need to be
done. At last at the end you should use a special plasti lube pasta for the
pads to remove noises and better leading..
first of all… check any leak around the hose, caliper…if no leak, then
bleed the air out of the system completely… did you compress the caliper
piston hard? you probably flip the master cyl. seal…if so, then you need
to replace the master….
Looks like there is a problem with your brake fluid, maybe you should
replace it.
Thanks for the video-you’ll save me more than $1000.00 in replacement Just
want to know the torque on the lugs and the bolts on the caliper. Thank
you!!!
Great Video! Very informative. What area of Germany our you from. I’m from
the Stuttgart area live they make the Benz. We has a 1980 280E, a 1988
500SEL, currently have a 2001 E-320, waiting the 2012 E-350 Bluetech in
US-specs. Also you english is very good.
a coat hanger works beter to hold the caliper
why oh why at 2:40 and after is the caliper wobbling as you struggle to
remove the pads? You had not even removed the mounting bolts till after
4:00? Did you edit this incorrectly? Hopefully? Or were you driving around
like that lol.
i wish cars in Lithuania woukd have such clean brakes XD
thanks
what is the size of the tool needed to take that one screw off the brake
disc? also, what is it called?
Great info, it is exactly what I needed to see, thank you very much.
so are those brembo or not?
@sundaygolfer3 Yes I always use new caliper bolts because i don’t have
loctite. These are 18volt battery tools and very powerful. 🙂
leuk filmpje, alleen vind ik de wd40 in de buurt van remschijven niet zo’n
prettig idee. zou hier zelf speciale remreiniger voor gebruiken.
I guess it is a bad idea to spray WD-40 all over the place. This is light
greasing and penetrating agent. It can solve dense grease of wheel bearing
when it penetrates under the bearing’s cover. The other thing is that you
sprayed it close to brake pads and let some residues on brake disc. We
should avoid grease on a break pads and disk.
Thank you very much man
Homie, always wear a mask when working around brake dust. Make kiddies do
the same.
Can you show where you placed the jack stand exactly? Hard to see, and
don’t you have to replace the brake pad wear sensor? And which bolts were
you talking about having locktite on the tips that must be replaced?
Good idea, thanks for your advice
Cool vid, Did mine in about 45 minutes on the rear.
What type of tip did you use? Regular star?
@Chippychap Hi, The bots you have to buy seperately, This is essential to
replace them since they have locktite on the tips. I dont know the Torque
value but no – one is strong enough to break them with normal tools. there
are German manuals available on the net.
That was nice… Thanks… but how different is it with a S500? That is
what i have… are you Greek?
Very useful, great tips thanks!
excellent, you gave me the confidence to do this myself. my pads look
thick. but the discs are heavy worn the lip around the edge is very large,
Im also getting break judder that is starting to get worse.