This video outlines a procedure to change the oil and filter on the W126 Mercedes. I also go over some additional maintenance items to look out for while the…
1991 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL Oil and Filter Change
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1991, Change, filter, MercedesBenz
- Categories: Mercedes-Benz
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Hi, really wanted to watch it but the pixels on the video are totally
messed up.
Is it just me?
I’m currently doing a Sea Foam treatment on my oil and gas tank to see if
it gets rid of this pesky motor shaking I’ve been experiencing on my ’85
500SEL W126. Can you recommend a good synthetic oil and weight for southern
climates? Thanks. =)
something suddenly occurred to me, in order to not waste oil, why not soak
it with oil after putting it into the oil filter housing? Cleaner, easier,
and no wasted fresh oil.
hi, could you please post a video of locating thestarter motor on this car
thanks
I use synthetic oils, fluids, and greases in all my vehicles (even lawn
mowers and generators) and I highly recommend them if you want to keep the
vehicle for a long time and have it perform to factory specifications over
its entire life. Since the vehicle used synthetic oil all it’s life, it
wasn’t hard to get the housing clean with a shop towel and paper towel for
the final wipe. I always try to keep things extremely clean when changing
fluids since the system is vulnerable in this state.
I just used a clean paper towel. Nothing fancy.
The used oil on the filter added a gloss to it that made the surface
reflective enough to look like metal. In reality, the perforated surface is
paper just like the filter media itself. The old filter was a genuine
Mercedes part.
Very thorough. Excellent my friend.
Unfortunately, I did the transmission and differential on this W126 before
I started making videos. However, you can watch my 1995 Crown Victoria or
1995 Ford F-250 transmission fluid and filter change videos for the
procedure. The procedure on the W126 is exactly the same as for those two
cars. The W126 has a torque converter drain plug as well, so don’t forget
to drain the converter first to get a complete drain. If the fluid is
extremely dirty or old, flush out cooler and lines as well.
You can use a combination of carburetor or brake cleaner and a large
unfolded paper clip and run that through the hole to clean it out. You
don’t want to use a reamer or drill bit as that may score the bore making
it easier for contaminates to build up in the future.
Hey Great video!!…what did you clean everything with before putting the
new filter in?
Mostly from online sources (search for W126 and component), but I also
utilize local retailers and dealers if I’m in a jam and need something
quick. Bap-Geon is a good European automotive parts retailer around here,
but Advance and Autozone carry some Mercedes parts as well, though you may
have to special order them.
I would suspect a badly worn wheel bearing which should also be noisy
(growling/howling) if it’s so bad that the tire wobbles. I would also check
the ball joints and other suspension components. The fact that the tire
wobbles while turning should be cause for immediate corrective action in
order to maintain safety.
Over here, greasy is okay. However, any end play and the joint fails. There
is some play in these joints, but I’m trying to get as much out of them as
I can before I have to replace them. I’m coming up on 179,000 miles on the
original ball joints.
Where do you buy your parts?
On the 420 sel plz
here a greasy ball joint would cause a failed safety inspection because
they would think its broken and the grease is from inside
Thank you
Again, THANKS for the fabulous videos. How did you clean out the filter
housing? Your housing was spotless. Would you recommend using a synthetic
oil?
when will you attend to the front wheel bearings? I see the grease on your
rims.
Can u show me how to Change transmission fluid and filter
If you get a new car every few years, petroleum oil is just fine. However
if you want to keep your car for a long time and have it perform to
specification, synthetic is the better option. Also, if you have older
engines with flat tappet cam shafts, oils with a higher ZDDP content are
crucial. You should find that the longer drain intervals will offset the
higher cost of the oil. As seen in the ’95 Crown Vic. transmission video,
the oil can actually solve potentially very expensive problems.
Thank you so much! So helpful! Now I won’t be afraid when I try to change
my oil! I want to check that PVC system as well. Just bought the car for
$500, and I’m pretty sure the last owners were very neglectful!
very very good ^_^
Thank you!
I noticed the old oil filter you removed had round perforated metal
surrounding the actual paper/fiber filter media. What brand did you remove
vis. the Mann filter brand?
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the quality of your videos. I’ve
been in the market for a 420 SEL for awhile, and I think you sealed the
deal for me. I’m actually looking at one tomorrow. Wish me luck. Thanks!
I’m glad you’ve found the videos of some use. They are really videos of
things I needed to do anyway. I just documented them. I’ll make more as the
need arises like tune ups, break/fix, etc. The W126’s are designed and
built to last, so if you can find a good one, grab it! Best of luck in your
search.
well…. youve done it… using your dynamic and convincing product
placements, you have converted me to amsoil and their pure synthetics to my
vehicles– and even generator and 2cycle yard equipment. i asked for a
product catalog– they sent me some info, and i like their variety of
product-specific, and product-USE-specific lubes, although i have yet to
see, long term if its worth it. i just cant tell, quantitatively and
qualitatively, for now. im interested in their oil analysis service
That’s actually been bothering me for a while and I’ve been meaning to
investigate the cause. I think I have a bad grease seal. I’ll likely tend
to that when I rotate the tires, which should be fairly soon. I haven’t
decided whether I’ll do the brakes at the same time or not. I’d like to go
with a less dusty pad.