Mazda 3 Air Conditioning troubleshooting and clutch coil replacement

Mazda 3 Air Conditioning troubleshooting and clutch coil replacement

I recently had a problem with my 2008 Mazda 3 where the compressor clutch would not engage so there was no air conditioning at all in the car. Most garages and dealers don’t troubleshoot down to the AC clutch coil and would just replace the entire compressor which requires an expensive compressor, system flush, evaporator valve (sometimes), vacuum and refrigerant charge. A repair like that can easily run over $1000 in this car. By replacing the coil only, my total cost was $52.

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Jonathan Bishop says:

Super thankful for this video. Well done! I'm attempting this soon on my 2004 2.3. Will report back.

thewolfstuff says:

2007 Mazda 3s 2.3L question. 104k miles. Noisy grinding from compressor that continually got worse over 2 weeks or so until it smoked. After idling for 10 min or so, smoke coming from clutch assembly. Clutch does not engage with AC button on and max AC setting. Engine off, I can turn clutch assembly by hand. Cut the belt, it's OK. No noise or smoke. Can I just replace the clutch without removing entire compressor? I can turn it by hand but it smokes when running for a bit. Is clutch semi-engaged?

Ozzy turk says:

great video thanks

davecc0000 says:

Good solder job. So many folks don't get the "heat the wire, not the solder" concept.

That electrical tape will unwrap (the adhesive on electrical tape isn't meant to withstand engine temps) and the solder joint will short to ground and blow the fuse.

Get a piece of shrink tubing that will fit over the connector (doesn't have to be small)–about 3 inches long. Uncouple the connector, slide it on the wire and over the solder joint. You don't even have to heat/shrink it if you don't want to. It will outlast the car.

Chuck G says:

Our's makes a knock like noise with the clutch disengaged. Turn the ac on, clutch kicks in, and the air works … and the noise disappears. Once it turns off/disengages, the noise come back. Sort of like a light rod knocking type noise. 100% certain its coming from the ac compressor. Will the clutch make a noise like that??? I'd say it wasn't the compressor, since it works when the clutch engages.

Rebekah Fontenot says:

I am unable to find the clutch coil for purchase.  Do you happen to know where I can find one?  All the auto parts stores say that I must purchase the entire compressor.  Thank you for your help!

Jorge says:

I wanted to say thanks! I was able to do this fix on my 2005 mazda3 2.3L and my AC finally works again. It died out of nowhere, still pushing cold air until that last time. I knew it couldn't be an issue with freon since the air was not gradually getting warmer, the AC just stopped working. I found your video and for my car the compressor connects to a cable that is shared by another that goes towards the top. If you're looking at all three cable it looks like a 'Y'. The compressor cable is wrapped around the compressor, and is clipped onto the engine block on the side and then disappears towards the driver side, maybe 6 inches long altogether. Another cable it shares a connection with goes towards the top of the engine, which you don't have to do anything with.

Pulling off the clutch plate was exactly as you described in the video and it pulled off without a problem. Removing the pulley needed some soft taps with a hammer from behind. When I got the pulley off I knew for sure that the coil was bad. The inside ring of the coil was no longer a solid black ring, it was yellow and deformed. Putting everything back together was the same, except I forgot a snap ring and had to take everything apart again lol. My advice to everyone is to go slow and take your time, because removing the clutch plate was pretty much impossible after everything was reinstalled already. Im guessing the new coil was the cause for the difficulty in removal. This is definitely doable for any DIY mechanic however, and 50.00 dollars is a lot cheaper than a new compressor. Good luck!

Tools used: car jack, tire wrench, Internal snap ring pliers, socket wrench, 12mm socket, 21mm socket, 14mm socket, 5mm allen tool/socket, heat shrink to water proof wiring, zip ties (installing new ac belt), thread lock for the 5mm bolt.

Les Ordway says:

Very nice video, thanks! I'm replacing the compressor with a new one ($324)on my kid's 2006 Mazda 3. So far (before charging the system) the new compressor clutch isn't engaging. I'm told it could be because the system isn't yet charged (low pressure) or a faulty relay switch. Had the same electrical connection issue as you. Also, I used the same trick to get the belt on. Unfortunately the belt is off 1 rib on the compressor pulley. Does anyone know if the belt can be adjusted or will I have to cut this one and start over??

Rob Horton says:

My stretch belt came apart and pulled the clutch cover off. I lost the 5mm bolt and the shimms. I can get the bolt, but any idea where to get the shims? I have 2008 Mazda3, 2.0 i.

Ken Colwell says:

wow … wish I could get mine working 🙁

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