How to replace the belt tensioner pulley in a 2012 Mazda 3 2.0L. This can be applied to most cars – tensioner design is slightly different but fundamentally the same.
My Mazda 3 is at 80,000 miles, and the drive belts looked in good shape – no fraying, cracks, or irregularities. There is a bit of idle noise that does not go away when water is applied to the belt, which indicates tensioner pulley bearing degradation. After removing the belt from the tensioner and spinning the pulley, you can hear grinding, and the pulley has lots of play – as predicted, time to replace.
I bought a new pulley from Autozone, unfortunately it is plastic and the OEM one was metal, but it fit perfectly and the bearing was smooth and without play.
Tools & Items needed for the job:
-1.5′ Torque wrench w/ 14mm socket
-New Pulley
-Recommend a 14mm box wrench for better tool clearance – my torque wrench was wide enough that I had to remove a belt clip and shove my coolant line out of the way; would not have had to do this with a box wrench
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You replaced a metal pulley, with what looks to be a plastic one. How is it working out for you so far?
What would you describe the sound that notified you? Did it get louder then you revved the engine, I am thinking that is the problems I having right now.
Hey what torque spec did you use when tightening the 14mm bolt back on? Thanks
Is this the same size engine as a 2010 Mazda 3?
and you did this why mate, got a 2011 Mazda 3 thats been chirping while AC is on and driving over 40mph
Thanks! Mine is being pretty noisy, just ordered the same pulley as you did for my 2011 mazda 3. Here is the link if anyone is looking for it. It's only $15.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C0WOXY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
yeah thanks a lot, man. you probably saved me about 200 bucks!