How To Fix A Car That Idles Poorly

How To Fix A Car That Idles Poorly

This shows you how to potentially fix a high idle, low idle, and or rough idle. Most modern cars have an idler air control valve (IAC) that can get gummed-up…

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DJDevon3 says:

In my experience I’ve found it much easier to use a pick tool to get the
dry carbon out first. It just cracks off and falls out so much easier.
For the remnant carbon then use throttle body cleaner (or other aerosol
cleaner). Makes for a more efficient use of time and more thorough
cleaning. You definitely know your stuff just have that tip to share.

Roger B. says:

I have 1985 Toyota tercel with a carbureted 4 cylinder,and 5-speed
transmission.the problem is when I push in the clutch,the engine revs up
like crazy,and soon as I let the clutch out,it goes back fine,what’s the
problem?thanks. 

Corey Morgan says:

Chris fix i have 2001 Pontiac grand am 2.4. the idle is about 400 RPM. and
put new IAC not diff. is there anything else u mite think of. or is there
special way to install new one? let me know what u thinking on this car
thanks 

zx8401ztv says:

My mate had the same problem with his ford Ka (small uk car), and the valve
you just cleaned looked identical to the one on the Ka.
It just didnt want to move, after saturating the spring bit with wd40 and
using a kids toothbrush to scrub it, it worked again 🙂

And we didnt even use mouthwash after the brush :-P

Octavio Rodriguez says:

Hey man i have a 2000 gmc sierra. In the morning when its cold it
accelerates to like 1-2 rmp then goes down then up again on its own and
down and shakes. Then it idles poorly. Then starts warming up and runs
good. What could it be?

WilliamNealyMusic says:

I’m hoping this is the problem with my s-10 chevy pick-up truck, it
sputter’s like the engine wants to cut off whenever i stop at a light or
stop sign. it’s usually when i’m idling, also my car tries to move by
itself when i’m idling, do you think this has to do with a dirty IAC Valve?

Danny Andrea Loza says:

I did what you showed me and now my 1999 ford explorer sport is whistling
what did do wrong

pbrahana1 says:

Ahh alright I see, thanks!!!

Gigglin bahena says:

96 Toyota corolla thanks but engine / steering wheel still shakes a lot
when in drive/reserve damn!!

pbrahana1 says:

I have a Ford Ranger and the airbag light flashed code 4-6 and I thought
that was the driver side seatbelt pretensioner. The check engine light came
on too, but I cleared the computer and it went off. Would the airbag light
code have anything to do with idle air?

ktm2212 says:

I own a Focus 2001 1.4 (Europe) and my weird problem is when I start with
cold engine (not frozen though I mean out of operation for more than 12
hours) everything fine in the beginning but then after about 1 minute when
I brake and stop to the lights the idle fall too low the car shaking and
before it stall the engine it brings up the rpm without do anything. That
may happen one more time and then when the temp gauge goes to the middle
and the car seem hot doesn’t do it again… Any suggestions

ChrisFix says:

It could be the IACV being dirty. The only way to see is to take it off and
clean it. It could also be a vacuum leak. Any whistling or sucking noises
under the hood? When you press the clutch, doe the RPMs change? What if you
press it, then let go without going into gear? What about your power
steering? When you are at idle, turn your wheel all the way to the right
then immediately to the left. Do the RPMs change?

MrJimmyAinsley says:

I have a Focus ZX5 2004, when I start the car it idles at ~ 1800-2000 RPM.
When shifting up, when pressing the clutch the RPM stays high until I
release the clutch onto the next gear instead of dropping when I initially
press the clutch. Then, every stop, still idling at around 2000 RPM but
then goes under 1000, then back up to 2000, and vice versa No check engine
light. Is it more likely to be the IACV or a vacuum leak? Or I’ve heard it
could even be my power steering line? Kind of confused!

ChrisFix says:

What for an Olds Cutless?

sharon fuehrer says:

For Oldsmobile cut less

ChrisFix says:

Is there a check engine light on? Sounds like a potential vacuum leak. Is
there any hissing or sucking noises under the hood?

Jorge Daniel says:

I have a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder that accelerates a lot when I start it
while it’s cold. I mean that when it has been off during the entire night.
What problem can be this? It takes too long to decelerate and the
performance is very poor.

ChrisFix says:

Might be a vacuum leak… Hear any sucking noises under the hood or see any
hoses that arent connected? Any check engine lights?

ChrisFix says:

That codes is “no fuel volume with engine running” which means you may have
a fuel pressure issue. Do you have a remote start by any chance? Did you
try doing a fuel pressure test? The gauge is only $15 and can be used on
most vehicles. Connects right to the fuel rail…

Monroe McCollins says:

I have experienced as well on/off last year and this year my engine light
coming on, then turning off? I was given the code of U1411 back in March
2012. Chrysler parts dept suggested it meant it could possibly be a code of
maybe a screw/stud ground wire maybe loose. Suggested I could locate this
issue on left hand kick panel? Many family n friends reply it made no
sense?

Monroe McCollins says:

I have a 06 Jeep Liberty,yesterday my jeep did not start.Neighbor gave me a
jump.Stopped by Autozone 2get the battery checked meter showed battery
fully charged,but bad battery. So they replaced my battery under the 2yr
warranty. However,after replacing my new battery & driving off. Within the
hour as I was driving my jeep stalled.It has increased stalling several
times so far. Approaching a stop light,slowing down. It idles very low then
comes 2a complete stall.What could this possible be?

ChrisFix says:

Could be a lot of stuff… Are your exhaust manafolds glowing red at all?
Do you have a vacuum leak? Are there any check engine lights? Is your air
filter clean?

ChrisFix says:

Yea, you are mistaken. OBD1 is for all cars 1995 and older (depends when
they started implementing it on cars). OBD1 was pretty much a test for the
govt required OBD2 system which was mandatory on all vehicles built in 1996
and earlier.

Chris Rocha says:

I may be mistaken but I think your Ford and Chrysler codes are OBDI codes

Anthony Q says:

No, don’t think they turn red. As far as vacuum leak goes, i’m not too sure
but messed around with it (sprayed carb cleaner around) so leaning towards
that not being it. Replaced air filter with a new one. I have been messing
around with the MAF and noticed the truck runs better without it so I just
ordered a new one after doing some tests. Hopefully this is the problem

gruntz53 says:

i have a 1986 ford mustang 5.0 and it idles okay when its not warmed up but
as soon as i let the engine warm up it idles rough and it idles below 1k
rpm and at times the car turns off on me. i try turning the car back on and
it turns off agian.can i use this same method on this vehicle make and
model? by the way when i come to a complete stop the car wont turn off
unless i accelerate until i can move i again.

Lois Lane says:

ALSO THE IDLE SURGE SEEMS TO START AFTER I RAN THE (AC) FOR A WEEK. THE
NEXT WEEK, WITH (AC) OFF , I WARM UP THE 92 IZUSU & PUT IT IN DRIVE, THEN
HERE COMES THE SURGE UP DOWN, BUT DOES NOT CUT OFF. WHAT DO YOU THINK?

ChrisFix says:

no prob… make sure you find a place to do it for free (the chain part
stores like autozone will do that)… Let me know what you find out!

Cho Walk says:

I will go go have it checked today. Thank you for the great information.

ChrisFix says:

well go get that checked and let me know what it says. They do it for free
at a lot of places, just ask. That will give you the answer.

ChrisFix says:

It can be a lot of things. I would first check for a vacuum leak (listen
for a whistling/sucking sound while the engine is running). Next thing i
would check is your mass airflow sensor. Since it stops happening when the
car goes into closed loop (it warms up), it is a problem during open loop.
In open loop, the MAF sensor and computer fuel tables are used. Do you have
a check engine light on?

akulabite says:

Thanks for the reply on the other video. Ive bough a new IAC valve and my
truck idles like yours. The vaccum lines are most likely the culprit in my
RPM dip. Ive seen a video and this guy was spraying cab cleaner on
different sections of the car until it hits the spot. might try that.
Thanks again.

squintdrummerjosh says:

Man, he rattled off those codes like nobody’s business. Good vid.

gruntz53 says:

hey you know what i just fixed the problem today thanks anyway! the screw
on the throttle was lose .I screwed it in a bit more to open my trohttle
now the car idles at 1k rpm and the engine doesnt turn off any more .but
thanks any way..

GeoMan498 says:

Ya when in neutral; and i press the gas it starts to rev down. What does
that mean? And im not that good with alll this techie stuff!

ChrisFix says:

Well you are gonna have to be more descriptive. There are a lot of problems
that can be wrong with your car. When does it shut off? Can you run it
without driving? Does it make any whistling noises? etc

Lois Lane says:

GREAT INFO, BUT I HAVE A 92 IZUSU, DOES IT HAVE FAST CONTROL VALVE OR
THE(IAC) ON THE CAR ON IN VIDEO, STANDARD ? @surge idle issues

ThePariss333 says:

So if my idle speed is on 1k rpm; is normal? It just drop a little when I
depress brake pedal and put gear. Is all this normal? mine is a 2008 and
55.000 miles only.

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