Changing out warped front rotors on my Mazda 3

Changing out warped front rotors on my Mazda 3

For those of you who have never done this, I thought you might like to get a look at how to change out warped rotors. The symptom of warped rotors are that t…

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RonPaultwoofer says:

wow i was going to ask a question but im not trying to have my car apart
waiting for an answer for 5 months lol

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Thanks Ivyspikes, I am glad you found it useful!

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

That’s really cool that you showed this around and got the skinny on it
for yourself! Sure there is a risk of slicing the seal around the brake
piston, but it is very small as I first put the screw driver in between the
rotor and pad, then carefully in the space between the pad and piston. I am
;more concerned with scoring the rotors. You can do it the right way, the
way I show in “RSX brake job. I have been doing this for over 20 years
without a single problem. Thanks for your comment!

Frank Fuentes says:

I dont care if you have 100 years of experience I have never opened a
bleeder valve to compress a piston and I do brake jobs everyday. Nor do I
stick screwdrivers in between anything,,, what?????

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Agreed!

BrokenRRT says:

I get ya! Funny thing is I have always just compressed the caliper and been
fine on every vehicle I’ve done it to. Well the day I watched this my
father was working on a 06 Mazda 3. He called me to tell me he couldn’t use
any of his break tools on these rear calipers. I took a look and he was
right. Anyhow I watch your video beforehand and just used a pair of heavy
needlenose while pushing and turning. Afterwards for the first time ever
the pedal was “soft”. We had to bleed them! Thanks

Greg Ramey says:

First you helped me replace the struts on my 3. Now you’ve helped me
replace my rotors and pads. I’ve done pads before, and I didn’t do it
exactly like you did, but you still helped me feel comfortable going in
(and helped confirm my diagnosis as to why my steering wheel was all
shaky). I appreciate it. Thank you again. (next you’ll be helping me with
my back pads/rotors)

NETWizzJbirk says:

True, but the good thing is that typically the very worst brake fluid is
right near the bleeder screw in each caliper, so the reality is just a few
brake pedal presses gets the majority of the nastiness out of the system…
Moreover the dirtiest fluid near the calipers won’t likely make it all the
way up to the master… it will just move further up the line. Regardless,
most people won’t have any problems regardless of which method they use, so
it should be fine.

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Endersftd, That is cool that you have the confidence to do what you need.
Not only is it cheaper for us all, but helps us with a sense of
accomplishment I think! Maybe when I blow up the engine in mine, I will
decide to rebuild it, and put a video up about that… HE HE. It does have
160,000 miles on it now… Mark 😉

tm001359 says:

I have never been taught to touch brake lines and bleeder screws because of
its supposed to be a closed system. and in order to bust a caliper piston
you really have to not know what you’re doing to mess up that bad. use a
C-clamp with the brake pad to push it back, slowly. simple as that

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Newizzjbirk, Thanks for the comment! However that brake fluid is rarely
ever clean in my experience.

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Ronpaultwoofer, I stopped getting notices from Youtube about questions. I
believe on my channel somewhere my email is placed, so you can answer a
question. If not there on my webpage, that I know is listed. I am not
running some service here you know… I am just doing stuff myself and
putting videos up to help people. Of course I am glad to answer questions
if I can, and YOUTUBE NOTIFIES ME! Grrr.

raphz1428 says:

Hey i took off the entire assembly all at once and not in two parts and now
i am trying to take off the rotor and it is not coming off. Any ideas on
how to remedy my situation?

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

That sucks about that soft pedal! Might just be a coinsidence.

iamro0t says:

I feel like this is a much more difficult way to replace pads and rotors

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

I said more than one way to skin a cat didn’t I?

ivyspikes16 says:

good video man =]

NETWizzJbirk says:

It is not a bad idea at all to open the bleeder screw when compressing the
caliper because it gives the fluid somewhere to go besides up to the master
cylinder and ABS control module. If the fluid is clean and you compress it
slowly, it shouldn’t be a problem though. The only thing that would be bad
would be clamping off the high-pressure brake hose because it is probably
steel braided inside the rubber.

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

However, last time I did the breaks on the front of my wifes car, I was in
a hurry and just compressed them, and of course everything was fine. I
thought maybe next time, I would do that procedure and post that. The way I
show, also flushes the nasty fluid out of the calipers

BrokenRRT says:

Why would you drain the fluid in this day and age? You can just compress
those calipers.

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Okay here you are going too far. I jacked the car up with the scissor jack,
then I placed a jack stand underneath the front suspension. That means the
primary lift point is under the front suspension, and is a jack stand, not
the scissor jack. Two points. Scissor jack, and jack stand. Yes, I am not
worried aboutg risking a line. 20 years….. I set it on top when I can,
but have left it hand before without a problem. Those high pressure brake
lines are tough! >20 years….

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Sorry. I don’t think I read your comment well. On the back, I never open up
the bleed valve. I just push and turn. Are you saying you just pushed and
turned and had to bleed them? Or that you cracked upen the bleed valves
before hand? I’m sure pliers work fine to turn down the piston, I am too
lazy to not use that little tool

Believe6 says:

….I showed this not only in my auto class, but a to a couple of master
mechanics at a conference and they couldn’t help but smile at how you did
the job. First of there is now tremendous amount of force on the puck
(brake piston) that prevents the caliper from just being removed. Also,
using a screw driver like that can actually increase the risk of slicing
your seal around the Brake Piston. A large set of channel locks or that
specialty tool you can buy do the job just fine.

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

I’m sorry, I really didn’t look at how to remove the rear rotors when I
took the back brake calipers off. Sorry about that! I would have liked to
have been able to help you out

Mike Ulderich says:

I might have missed it, but do you know if the rear rotors are any
different? Seems pretty straight-forward and typical, but I’m ready to
tackle the back rotors and am reading some interesting things. Any insight
would be greatly appreciated. Great work, dude!

The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist says:

Sorry, I never saw this as for some reason, Youtube stopped notifying me of
comments. 🙁

Believe6 says:

You are also not promoting automotive repair safety because who in their
right mind would place a scissor jack as their primary lift point? The jack
stand should have been placed where the scissor jack was to ensure safety.
Problem with were you place it, is if something happens it can A) slip and
damage your vehicle, B) slip and hurt you or kill you. Finally why would
you EVER hang your caliper from the brake line? you are so concerned with
not BLOWING a SEAL but dont mind risking a line tear?

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