@ WhoSaidTyler I know the water pump has seized on my 2000 1.8 petrol auto
and I reckon when it’s jammed up it’s done for the timing belt. it has
90,000 on it so I presumed it would have had a new belt a long time ago but
assuming it’s on its first that does reasonable? this video is excellent
and good chat below, very helpful – thanks.
@moldymac captions are hilarious – I must look for more of their
excellent work.
these engines are listed on Autodata as interference, I emailed telling
them the rest of the world knows they’re not but they couldn’t discuss it
with me “for legal reasons”! I read recently the diesels were interference
but the guy admitted he wasn’t 100% sure.
If you want more info on these cars there’s clubprotege.com and club323f.asthey’re known in the UK.
I used the same trick to get the bolt off my lesabre’s balancer. If you
want a laugh, click on the closed captioning thing and watch it fail to
spell out what your saying.
Well the crank turns regardless of whether the timing belt broke, so it
should still have spark. You can pretty clearly tell when a timing belt
breaks because a couple cylinders will usually have no compression. I would
check the ECM for trouble codes, it should set one if it’s lost CPS signal.
@craig1974 You are right. I try to warn people I know to replace timing
belts and I always get a quizzical look. The flywheel idea is excellent,
and I normally do that but on this car there’s no easy access to the
flywheel.
well, those cams tend to move because of the valve spring pressure, so it’s
not that easy just to rotate them and them stay. If you look ahead in the
videos I made a holding device out of two wrenches and a pair of vicegrips
to hold the cams stationary. Make SURE the marks are exactly in line…take
something like a straightedge to ensure the imaginary line across the cam
marks is perfectly straight.
I bet alot of people do not know what a timing belt is. On my pulley bolt i
removed the flywheel shield, and clamped it with a vice grip while i
loosened the bolt with a large pipe/socket wrench.
@320ibeamer I do love the fact that I don’t have to mess with the flywheel
to get this done. Mazda had made this pretty easy over the years, I’m just
a DIY’er, ever since my 1983 BMW
@320ibeamer what you do is just bump the starter, turn it to start and then
back off quickly, you don’t want the engine to catch and run. Mine took
about 3 tries before it broke loose. I wouldn’t use a torque wrench to get
the harmonic bolt loose because it can get them out of calibration.
Standard, just hold the clutch in. That one is easier to torque the
harmonic bolt down, just put it in 5th and block the car from moving.
I invite you to provide definitive proof that the 2.0L FS-DE is, then. Not
just stating “you read it somewhere”, because I can find enough proof
including pictures of the pistons to make a video about it. Not getting on
your case but this is how people end up getting mis-information.
this is an interference style engine. if the belt broke it would be a blown
motor. pistons would have hit the valves and your motor would have been
locked up
great trick i did the starter bump it worked great. i had to replace the
water pump cause it was leaking really bad, and while i was installing the
new pump my dohc cams moved of their i,e marks now how do i realign them
with the crank i was thinking of turning each cam to their correct marks is
that a good idea
so when you bump the starter, you just do it until it cranks once, right?
Also, would you recommend using a torque wrench to break it loose? It’s the
only thing I have with a 1/2″ drive. My dad’s letting me borrow his tool to
get it back on, it’s like a vice-grip with a bike chain on it, grabs the
harmonic balancer (crank pulley).
@moldymac I actually thought the starter trick wasn’t going to work on this
car at first because I guess the starter is getting worn out and slow. It
took like 6 tries, but it finally broke loose.
cool thanx for the tips. I’ve been trying to torque it back down in 1st,
but good thing I didn’t cuz I forgot to put that little shield back in. 5th
makes more sense though. I must say hats off to anyone who does this
without a mechanic. My hands look like raw hamburg. Getting those marks to
line up is much harder on a DOHC.
It’s not an interference engine. Not only is that verified everywhere you
look, but I show the belt that came off this engine which was clearly
missing teeth. It ran fine afterward.
){kind=link}
@ WhoSaidTyler I know the water pump has seized on my 2000 1.8 petrol auto
and I reckon when it’s jammed up it’s done for the timing belt. it has
90,000 on it so I presumed it would have had a new belt a long time ago but
assuming it’s on its first that does reasonable? this video is excellent
and good chat below, very helpful – thanks.
@moldymac captions are hilarious – I must look for more of their
excellent work.
these engines are listed on Autodata as interference, I emailed telling
them the rest of the world knows they’re not but they couldn’t discuss it
with me “for legal reasons”! I read recently the diesels were interference
but the guy admitted he wasn’t 100% sure.
If you want more info on these cars there’s clubprotege.com and club323f.asthey’re known in the UK.
I used the same trick to get the bolt off my lesabre’s balancer. If you
want a laugh, click on the closed captioning thing and watch it fail to
spell out what your saying.
also, is there any difference with a standard transmission, other than you
need to hold the clutch in?
Great job!
@320ibeamer mid-January in NH. Not the ideal setting for working on a car
You’re right, an interference engine is screwed if the belt breaks but be
sure you know which engines are and are not.
great videos
Well the crank turns regardless of whether the timing belt broke, so it
should still have spark. You can pretty clearly tell when a timing belt
breaks because a couple cylinders will usually have no compression. I would
check the ECM for trouble codes, it should set one if it’s lost CPS signal.
Would a broken timing belt give the effect of no spark or would it most
likely be my crankshaft position sensor?
@moldymac HAHAHA, that’s insane. I saw something about Socialists, and what
could be a neat catch-phrase….”incredibly rental”.
@craig1974 You are right. I try to warn people I know to replace timing
belts and I always get a quizzical look. The flywheel idea is excellent,
and I normally do that but on this car there’s no easy access to the
flywheel.
the 2.0 is most definitely an interference engine.
Every 60,000 miles.
well, those cams tend to move because of the valve spring pressure, so it’s
not that easy just to rotate them and them stay. If you look ahead in the
videos I made a holding device out of two wrenches and a pair of vicegrips
to hold the cams stationary. Make SURE the marks are exactly in line…take
something like a straightedge to ensure the imaginary line across the cam
marks is perfectly straight.
I bet alot of people do not know what a timing belt is. On my pulley bolt i
removed the flywheel shield, and clamped it with a vice grip while i
loosened the bolt with a large pipe/socket wrench.
@320ibeamer I do love the fact that I don’t have to mess with the flywheel
to get this done. Mazda had made this pretty easy over the years, I’m just
a DIY’er, ever since my 1983 BMW
@320ibeamer what you do is just bump the starter, turn it to start and then
back off quickly, you don’t want the engine to catch and run. Mine took
about 3 tries before it broke loose. I wouldn’t use a torque wrench to get
the harmonic bolt loose because it can get them out of calibration.
Standard, just hold the clutch in. That one is easier to torque the
harmonic bolt down, just put it in 5th and block the car from moving.
I invite you to provide definitive proof that the 2.0L FS-DE is, then. Not
just stating “you read it somewhere”, because I can find enough proof
including pictures of the pistons to make a video about it. Not getting on
your case but this is how people end up getting mis-information.
this is an interference style engine. if the belt broke it would be a blown
motor. pistons would have hit the valves and your motor would have been
locked up
Keepin my fingers crossed for you!!!
great trick i did the starter bump it worked great. i had to replace the
water pump cause it was leaking really bad, and while i was installing the
new pump my dohc cams moved of their i,e marks now how do i realign them
with the crank i was thinking of turning each cam to their correct marks is
that a good idea
so when you bump the starter, you just do it until it cranks once, right?
Also, would you recommend using a torque wrench to break it loose? It’s the
only thing I have with a 1/2″ drive. My dad’s letting me borrow his tool to
get it back on, it’s like a vice-grip with a bike chain on it, grabs the
harmonic balancer (crank pulley).
@moldymac I actually thought the starter trick wasn’t going to work on this
car at first because I guess the starter is getting worn out and slow. It
took like 6 tries, but it finally broke loose.
I am seriously learning so much from this series. Been waiting this whole
week to see if you get this little gas saver up and running again! Keepin
cool thanx for the tips. I’ve been trying to torque it back down in 1st,
but good thing I didn’t cuz I forgot to put that little shield back in. 5th
makes more sense though. I must say hats off to anyone who does this
without a mechanic. My hands look like raw hamburg. Getting those marks to
line up is much harder on a DOHC.
im sry but is it every 6 year or 60 year .(( IN 11:49 min ))
It’s not an interference engine. Not only is that verified everywhere you
look, but I show the belt that came off this engine which was clearly
missing teeth. It ran fine afterward.
thx i appreciate your work