The re are 3 wires or electrodes on all starters. One is the large bolt that is attached to the main positive battery cable. One is the small wire that is so…
The re are 3 wires or electrodes on all starters. One is the large bolt that is attached to the main positive battery cable. One is the small wire that is so…
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I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, the only noise it makes is a soft humming
sound when I turn the key. (Fuel Pump Engaging) Then after trying over &
over it eventually turns over & starts. Then it runs great from there! Done
this for the past week, turned it on about 10 times, check engine light
just came on today saying “Crank Shaft Sensor”, but I was told the car
would turn & run like sh*t. So we’ve bought a new starter & we’re gonna put
that in. What do you think? Our local mechanics said there is no way it’s
the sensor if it’s running fine. If it was the crankshaft sensor then the
car wouldn’t turn over, but it’d crank. But it doesn’t even do that so I
assume it’s the starter right? Replaced the Clutch switch, started 30 times
consecutively, then failed later that night. So assume it was just a lucky
part of the starter. Suggestions?
have a 99 5 spd cavalier 2.2, when i push my clutch in, also in neutral, i
turn my key over and nothing. no turn over. new starter, battery is fine,
have been having to push jump it lately, im thinking neutral safety switch,
but not completely sure. any ideas?
I have an exytra bolt, its an unloader wire and everthing else you have
there. ground, unloader wire, ignition wire, and big red wire. how do you
dianose that one?
ImRamro,…. Ok….I got the no start today and I did as you said and tried
to start it in Neutral……It WORKED!! I was shocked! So…..I’m
guessing it is the neutral safety switch! Is that a difficult and/or
costly fix for this old 97 F150?
Thank you. I think I can show this to my mechanic tomorrow and it will save
us a trip to have Autozone check it for us.
ok the principles are there and i agree with most of the steps but try back
probing the connection with a pin instead of making the female plug too
big to make a connection or there is my favorite superglue and a sowing
needle- to pierce the the wire cheek for power cover the hole with glue to
seal less parts to take off
I have a 96 Nissan Sentra that i had a cranking problem with, i would turn
the key and nothing! I changed the neutral saftey switch first and still
nothing, so then i bought battery cables and same story nothing lol when i
came across this video is when i bought a tester light and tested the
ignition wire as shown in the vid, i had no power going to the wire so i
purchased a new tumbler/ign switch installed it and she fired right up!!!
Thanks for the help…
OK,….I will try that. Thanks.
I’m ready to give up on my ol’ 97 F150. It will give me a no-start/no crank
about every 2 weeks and I can only get it started by using a screw driver
on the Solenoid,….then after that it’s fine for 2 weeks or so. I have
replaced the starter, the solenoid and the battery to no avail. Now I’m
stuck with a truck that I can’t trust. I will say that once in awhile I
have noticed that you can actually take the key out of the ignition even
while it’s running. What a weird truck!
It could be something in the ignition? Next time it refuses to start, try
starting it in neutral. It could just be the neutral safety switch?
I would also suggest doing one of the most reliable and surefire ways to
check this system but you have to master the techniqe it’s not hard to do
once you know how is to first check that all of the components are
recieving power.then go through the process of iliminitation AKA -how about
performimg a volatage dorp test First, Voltage drop test
Wow, the starter would stay engaged and keep spinning after the key was
released? If it was not in the keyed ignition and not a physical part like
the cylinder, I would guess the starter? I know you already replaced it.
Did you notice any unusual wear on the star gear of the starter? I guess
the starter gear could be getting hung up on the flywheel and keeping it
engaged, but this sounds more like an electrical problem? Check the
ignition switch next, this is likely the prob. I would start by
I have a 95 Chevy Pickup…it seems that the starter stays engaged with the
key in the on position. I changed the ignition cylinder first, because in
the past, the truck would crank to start when the key was turned back to
the accessory position. That didn’t eliminate the constant crank. Replaced
the starter and solenoid(bench test failed) but the condition remains the
same. I’m guessing the Ignition Switch would be next, but would hate to go
through that trouble for nothing. Any ideas? Thx
yes the solenoid would be the easiest for me ha i will have them test it
more than once
Mine tested fine a few times, but failed on the third try. If they test it
and say it is good, just please have them test it 3 times. Most people just
buy the whole starter, but you could just replace the solenoid if you
wanted? I would replace the whole unit, just to be safe. Good luck.
ok so i put new startrer and ignitin switch still nothing no roll start no
start when i cross solenoid leads i cant get power to ign side of solenoid
any ideas im super stumped. thanks
thank you much!!! i got it out yesterday and i am on the way to autozone.
thank again for the quick reply
When you say crossed, I am assuming you are bridging the gap on the starter
and solenoid with a screw driver? Well is the engine turning over at all?
If the only thing you get is power to the starter, then the
starter/solenoid is probably going out. You can get an Ohm meter and make
sure that you have 12-14 volts reaching the solenoid just to make sure. I
had a starter that was going out and would only work if I banged it with a
2×4 wood. Sounds like the problem is in the starter or solenoid.
I would check the neutral safety switch first. I am sure you can look it up
on YT for your vehicle. Will the car start in neutral?
ok so i tried to check ignition power with test light and i got no light i
also bridged the gap on solenoid and it tuned motor to act like it was
starting but no start and i also tried to push start it and nothing i cant
figure it out should i take starter off and change it or is it a wore or
fire problem thanks so much
ok so i got a 87 s10 has been starting fine but went to start today nothing
happens no crank nothing just a small click. batt is charged i crossed the
terminals on the solenoid and it acts like it wants to start but wont. any
ideas thanks
Sounds like it is your solenoid. The sound you hear is the solenoid getting
power, but not energizing enough to spin the gear in the flywheel. It is
the classic sound of the solenoid going out. A new starter will have a
solenoid already attached, so replacing the starter should solve the
problem. Oreiley’s and Auto Zone will check the starter for free, but some
stores can only check the starter once it has been removed.
That is pretty dangerous if the car is rolling in park? Sounds like the
transmission linkage is loose or broken. The neutral safety position switch
is there so the car will not start in gear and lunge forward. It sounds
like your transmission linkage is loose or broken because the car should
never roll when in gear. The linkage will be a metal bar that is mounted to
the top or side of the trans. It it what attaches the trans to the shifter
on the floor or steering column by a bar or cable?
The car will not even “crank” when it is too hot or cold? If the car turns
over, but is not starting then I would check the spark plugs for spark
first. You can get a spark plug tester for a few bucks at Harbor Freight,
or just remove a spark plug boot and stick a screw driver inside. Then lay
the screw driver that is inside the boot very close, but not touching to
something metal. Have a friend turn the key and you should see a small
spark jump off the screw driver. Don’t get shocked.
had my battery tested it was good….now when i try to start i get one
click from the starter and thats it. any ideas?
Try installing a different relay that is rated the same like the wiper
motor or fuel pump? If there is no power at all reaching the relay then it
is before the relay, but if power is reaching the relay and not making it
to the starter it could be a fusible link, a ground, or bad wiring?
I have a 2000 Ford Windstar that has a no crank start problem only when
it’s too hit or too cold outside. It has no problems starting when the
weather is warm. what could be the problem?. Thanks.
The intermittent starting problem can be the neutral safety switch? The
easiest way to check it would be to test the wire like we did in the video.
#1 You can try moving the gear shifter rapidly through the gears, then
return to park and turn the key. #2 You can also try and start the car in
neutral? If one of these two things start the car, it may be the neutral
safety switch? It could be something else of course like battery cables or
the ignition? You can make your own shims out of alum can
Hey there I just recently had my starter replaced and now that it’s been
replaced it makes a nasty squeel or it seems to struggle to get a grasp to
roll the engine… It does turn on now but I feel like it shouldn’t be
doing this… I’m not sure if it’s kind of like a break in type thing cause
it’s brand new but yea just wondering if I should be concerned. Also my
remote starter doesn’t seem to work anymore?! Is there something that might
be correlated to that?
It should not squeal like that and needs no break in period. Is it a
grinding sound or a high pitch squeal? Does the sound occur just after the
car starts or does the sound start the instant the key is turned? Sounds
like the problem can be the new starter is faulty which happens often, or
the starter needs to be shimmed? If the sound is grinding then the starter
may be grinding on the flywheel and the starter needs shims? Autozone will
test the starter for free if you want to remove it?