Hi, At highway speed (45-55 MPH) on level ground the car rides fine, but
with a little grade and the car starts bucking, i give it more fuel and it
goes away. Could this be the spark plugs needing to be changed. Its a 2008
Ford Taurus X. with 98,000miles thanks
Another great video, i wish i had seen it before doing this job 4 years
ago! I was wondering if i need to remove the rear bank valve cover to
replace the vct seal? Mine is starting to leak oil and i want to fix it
soon. If i want to remove the vct solenoid at the same time is it possible
with the valve cover on? There is no leak on the valve cover gasket except
where there is the vct seal on the rear bank cylinders. Thank you so much
for this wealth of informations you are sharing with us, i truly appreciate
it!
Outstanding videos. We just bought a ’12 Taurus with 60,000 miles,runs like
a top but will be changing the plugs myself.
I also have a ’13 Edge so the vids are very handy.
I put 287,000 miles on a ’02 F-150 with the 5.4 (sold it recently) and
changed the plugs on it many times.
That thing was a royal PITA when it came time to change spark plugs.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
My 2008 Taurus is sputtering at highway speeds. This does not happen aften,
but it is concerning. This is a replacement engine also. Could this be a
spark plug issue, or ccould it be something more expensive?
I’ve done this repair a few times and every time at least one of those
little black release levers breaks and the connector will not click. Some
comeback with a misfire and one of those back connectors is off.
I have a 2010 Taurus SHO and the #3 ignition coil needs to be replaced, can
you tell me exactly which one that is? I dont want to take off that upper
intake if I dont have too
sure looks like a walk in the park but when compare to changing the plugs
on 1997 5.4L Triton, it’s a nightmare. Especially the Driver side. Worse of
all, the number 6 spark plug blew out a couple years ago, so a Mechanic
installed Timsert kit.$300. I use blue locktite on these plugs on my 97′
expedition with 5.4l V8 to keep from blowing out while driving.
If you have any tips of how to keep these spark plugs from blowing out,
Please let me know. thanks
I see that the PCV valve was moved to the valve cover, good. In the 3.0
Duratec it was in a difficult spot, as I am sure you know.
Do you only recommend Motorcraft spark plugs? I was told that in the DOHC
engines that those are the only brand that should be used.
Hello FordTechMakuloco. Is the PCV a serviceable item? And if so, any
specifics to removal/ cleaning/ install? Thanks in advance for your
response.
Hi, At highway speed (45-55 MPH) on level ground the car rides fine, but
with a little grade and the car starts bucking, i give it more fuel and it
goes away. Could this be the spark plugs needing to be changed. Its a 2008
Ford Taurus X. with 98,000miles thanks
Great video! Though I prefer a warm engine, because everything frees up
easier with some heat in it.
Another great video, i wish i had seen it before doing this job 4 years
ago! I was wondering if i need to remove the rear bank valve cover to
replace the vct seal? Mine is starting to leak oil and i want to fix it
soon. If i want to remove the vct solenoid at the same time is it possible
with the valve cover on? There is no leak on the valve cover gasket except
where there is the vct seal on the rear bank cylinders. Thank you so much
for this wealth of informations you are sharing with us, i truly appreciate
it!
Would this also be the same on the explorer? I assume so being the same
engine.
Outstanding videos. We just bought a ’12 Taurus with 60,000 miles,runs like
a top but will be changing the plugs myself.
I also have a ’13 Edge so the vids are very handy.
I put 287,000 miles on a ’02 F-150 with the 5.4 (sold it recently) and
changed the plugs on it many times.
That thing was a royal PITA when it came time to change spark plugs.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
My 2008 Taurus is sputtering at highway speeds. This does not happen aften,
but it is concerning. This is a replacement engine also. Could this be a
spark plug issue, or ccould it be something more expensive?
I hate that intake design. Wish they could design them, so you can change
the rears, without removing the intake.
What are the ignition coil number on the banks?
Great job on the vid & intake removal. Just did my 10′ fusion sport plugs.
Sight redisign on the routing of evap but spot on!
I’ve done this repair a few times and every time at least one of those
little black release levers breaks and the connector will not click. Some
comeback with a misfire and one of those back connectors is off.
I have a 2010 Taurus SHO and the #3 ignition coil needs to be replaced, can
you tell me exactly which one that is? I dont want to take off that upper
intake if I dont have too
Another excellent video, thanks. Out of curiosity, is this a Ford Flex?
have you seen many turbo failures on these? mines in the shop right now
waiting on a new passenger side turbo, only 36,000 km on it
Is that the PCV next to the first plug you remove?
sure looks like a walk in the park but when compare to changing the plugs
on 1997 5.4L Triton, it’s a nightmare. Especially the Driver side. Worse of
all, the number 6 spark plug blew out a couple years ago, so a Mechanic
installed Timsert kit.$300. I use blue locktite on these plugs on my 97′
expedition with 5.4l V8 to keep from blowing out while driving.
If you have any tips of how to keep these spark plugs from blowing out,
Please let me know. thanks
If this is a f150, I’ve read that when running custom tunes that it’s best
to gap at 0.0030. Thoughts?
I see that the PCV valve was moved to the valve cover, good. In the 3.0
Duratec it was in a difficult spot, as I am sure you know.
Do you only recommend Motorcraft spark plugs? I was told that in the DOHC
engines that those are the only brand that should be used.