Oxygen sensors (Air fuel ratio sensors) are a common problem on many vehicles. A P1155 or P1135 code indicates you have a bad sensor. This is common in Toyota and Lexus cars and trucks. Learn…
Oxygen sensors (Air fuel ratio sensors) are a common problem on many vehicles. A P1155 or P1135 code indicates you have a bad sensor. This is common in Toyota and Lexus cars and trucks. Learn…
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Learn to test and replace an Air Fuel Ratio Sensor.
Thanx again…
One of the better channels as regards camera techniques and
presentation.Very clear diction and makes the
viewer feel that he is part of the action.Plenty of resources supplied and
a willing attitude to share wisdom.12 out of 10.
if only its this easy on german cars
How to Check and Replace an Oxygen Sensor (Air Fuel Ratio Sensor):
https://youtu.be/_Kr-c8eBl5E
Also called a O2 sensor right?
Doesn’t this also go by Oxygen Sensor? I recently had to replace mine on an
04 Civic
I too had to change O2 sensor on my V6 ES300 engine and the original one
was super tight and I ended up cross threading .. So took it to dealer and
they fixed it right up and even torqued the new sensor
I don’t know if you remember my sticking starter question, but it could be
related now. So, I went to school and park my truck like I normally do and
I turn it off and step out. Then the truck turns itself on and runs while
the keys are in my hand. I wasn’t able to turn it off until I put it in
drive and drove into the shop at my school (learning to be an auto tech).
After that i put it in park and I turned it off. It stayed off that time. I
don’t know if it was still related to the starter or if I have some wiring
problem. What do you think? Its an 06 tundra no remote start. Plus my
instructor had no idea what it was, he had never run across anything like
that.
again Chris, Thanks for another great video .You should have your own T.V.
show.
What is the model of that code reader? I see the link below for the
wireless one but I like the one you are using here, thanks!
what can I say about chris fix another grate video hey chris you mean
to tell me that you did not have a sensor socket LOL the rent a tool
program is a grate thing
since I watching your video.
just great help.
have nice day
Hi Chris thank you so much for your video
oh man! doing my o2 sensors were a pain in the ass! NIGHTMARE lol had to
use pb blaster and some heat
Hey Chris I just replaced the two belts on my 94 Geo Tracker and it solved
a problem I was having, but now I have another annoying problem, my car
starts to squeal only when I accelerate, what do you think could cause
this?
thanks man, i have the same code on the same SUV, im gonna test the
continuity in the week to see if it is the sensor or and electrical
problem. one question whats the part number of the sensor?
Please do replace fuel injectors. Does those things really cost atleast 60$
each
Short and sweet…..straight to the point
no need now but when we need these will be valuable how to videos
I touch myself when i hear your voice
2 Quick unrelated questions, lol: can replacing the camshaft (along with
valve springs) bring back some performance to decent mileage engine? I’m
thinking of upgrading the camshaft (as well as pushrods and valve spring)
for higher performance ones in my truck (it has a chevrolet 4.8L gen 3 lr4
with a hydraulic roller cam) and was also wondering if replacing lifters is
just recommended or mandatory (it only has 90k miles)?
Seems like the wire on that sensor is slightly too short. Thats the correct
part of course but I dont care for how tight the angle is on the wire
coming out of the sensor, seems like it is binding the wire.
Denso, good choice since Denso makes OEM Toyota parts.
Another tip, for removing the old one, you can just cut the wiring off as
short as possible so you can use a regular socket to get the old one off.
It doesn’t help with installing the new one mind you ;-)
+ChrisFix I can’t wait till you post the seafoam for a car test!
By the way, it is a bad idea to clear any codes using an OBD2 reader…
Just leave it after you make your repair and the light will automatically
turn off if the fix is done properly.
Sometimes the new sensors are bad too,it happened to me I bought one and
was bad so I return it,i knew was bad cause I deleted the code and some
days later come up again.
Hey Chris, thanks for another informative video. As is your pattern, your
vid has some gems some might miss; like renting that specialty socket; a
simple breaker bar extension for a socket handle, use of anti seize…
I would love a ChrisFix website or page. You’ve helped me many times.
Oh, BTW, one day, while all of us know what your ARMS look like; one day
you should show your face…
Hi Chris, I have a problem. My car’s Air Conditioner is hot, even though I
set it cold. It releases hot air instead, how do I fix this?
Awesome video Chris your the best man, I was wondering if you could do a
video testing Zmax engine formula. Highly suggested by my car guru buddies
and before I buy it for $20 I’d like to see how it will work for an engine.
Plus I like how your in depth and very clear on explaining every step and
detail you will always be my favorite mechanic and go to guy for all of my
automotive needs. :)
hey i was wondering what machine you use to check for codes and where i can
get one. Thanks
If you have tested and confirmed that you have a bad sensor, cut the wires
off and use a regular deep socket. Applying too much force to an O2 socket
will spread it open and make it useless. It is really just an installation
tool.
Cheater bars shouldn’t be used by a professional like yourself :). You know
it is bad for the tool and you risk breaking the structural integrity of
the tool each time you over torque it…. but jealous the RAV4 has O2
sensors up front mine are below the bay :(.
Hey Chris Fix, do you recommend warming the engine up first to remove the
AFR/Oxygen sensors, or leaving the engine cold and spraying them with a
good penetrating oil? Your channel is awesome, I have learned a lot from
watching your videos! Thanks!
Aww the good ole cheater pipe, has to be in the top 10 best “mechanic
tricks of trade”
Chris,
I would love to see you do a video review/explanation of blow by and
prevention/fixes. I have a 2001 Ford F150 with 290,000 miles on it. It
recently started using oil. NOT leaking or blowing blue smoke just using a
quart or 2 between each oil change (7,500 miles using synthetic blend) I
would love to find a fix other than ring job or rebuild. Keep up the
great videos. they are great training tools for young folks as well as us
old timers.
Nice learning to me,great video chris!
Smashing and snappy video :-))
Your video shows where the sensor is, thats often a stumbling block for
people that dont know the engine very well, and you showed a typical
problem, even if it was the actual sensor itself then the viewer still
knows where to look 😀
Never forget to touch the probes together for the stray resistance in the
meter, then subtract from the test reading for as accurate as possible
result, i say this for times you wish to test wires/connectors.
The cheap multimeters do work very well considering that they have just a
handfull of parts, i have two of the bright yellow 830B types for outside
use, handy for any toolkit 🙂
Sorry i waffle chris :(
Other than the OBD code, what are some symptoms of a bad sensor?
You were right to take the sensor OUT of a warm engine, as this expands the
manifold threads slightly and aids removal. Once you had condemned the
sensor you could have cut off the pigtail to help removal. That slit in the
socket is for installation. You can also use a box end 7/8″ wrench. Thanks
for the video.
Fantastic video. Thanks.