![Replacing Brake Lines, Will NEVER Rust Again! [Land Rover Part 3]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/L7x3VnGflF0/hqdefault.jpg "Replacing Brake Lines, Will NEVER Rust Again! [Land Rover Part 3]")
I replace the brake lines on my 2005 Land Rover Discovery LR3 with copper-nickel lines that won’t rust unlike the steel lines that come from the factory.
OTC Master Brake Flaring Tool Kit: https://amzn.to/3d1sTsp
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on the rusty bolts, my personal recipe is get stainless bolts whenever possible. 304 will not rust even if the bit it's screwed into is pig-iron. It's a trick I learned on chem industry: stainless bolt + iron nut = easier to loose and the bolt will be reusable.
Nice work! as i'm putting in my Suncore coil springs I'm noticing the rusty brake lines! Next job and this will be my go to video, and of course Christian and Vera at LRTime, I had one nasty nut finally give in today, so just one corner left to get undone, its nearly sawn through but that means nothing to these nuts, we'll see tomorrow, a full size less socket levered onto the nut with a prybar and penetrating oil soaking for days then my 3/8 craftsman flex bar from the back finally broke the back nut, of course it still fights every turn but cranking the socket down on it held
Just had my rear brake line start to leak in my LR3. Not sure if I have the ability to do this in my driveway during the New England winter, but I may try it to save money. Otherwise it would be very expensive to fix. I've done other repairs like the front brakes and steering shaft before.
You now have another fan !
You seem surprised a Land Rover can go off road!! It’s what they were designed to do. That wasn’t a challenge for one!! Fun though.
After many a cold winter's night outside, wind and snow howling, car on jack stands, my feet sticking out from under and my hands warming by a work light while neighbors drive by and shake their heads, I totally respect and enjoy this video. Thanks for validating all of us home mechanics who can only dream of standing upright while working in a warm garage in the winter.
The most pressing question is: Where are you buying parts and from whom are you sourcing parts?
Man good for you for repairing the air system. Interested to see if you continue to have issues with that. I had air suspension on my 2013 V8 Grand Cherokee, but after 130k miles the hydraulic part of the front struts was pretty much blown. The rear bags were also starting to crack and the pump was significantly noisier than when new. So I just fit 2.5" OME springs/shocks and was able to fit 33" tires. It's basically in high mode all the time.
Not sure if its the same with these, but a common leak point is the swivel elbow at the top of each front strut where the air line attaches. The O rings inside dry out due to engine heat and start to leak.
Also, a really good treatment for that body seam rust is cosmoline spray. Its like a wax coating, and you don't need to degrease and sand stuff for it to work. I buy it by the case in aerosol cans from cosmoline direct.
Oh and when doing a complete line replacement, I found getting pre bent stainless lines from a company like inline tube to be the easiest. And I always change the hoses to braided stainless at the same time. Full kit is like $250 and the the fittings are all installed. My wifes 1990 Volvo has factory copper lines, still perfect after over 250k miles. I dont get why every car does not have them, has to be like $50 more overall.
Binge watching Waldo while Ian is blowing thru NC atm (Life is good). Southerners would hate to work on cars like you do in the snow. We can take the heat and humidity, I can tolerate the cold. Snow in NC means the state comes to a screeching halt. Keep up the great work Waldo.
Respect! In the snow and cold too 🙂