so much wrong with this one. – blow crud away around the wells before removing coils – use spark plug magnetic socket to remove and to place plugs back in. DON'T just drop it in – don't use anti seize on plug threads but use dielectric grease on where porcelain meets plug 'nut' and on inside end of coil – tighten the plug to spec, not just 'snug' video was a pain to watch
Thanks for this, I'm about to replace the coils and spark plugs on my wifes 13' Soul within the next couple days. The dealer was trying to charge her $500 to do just one set, lol.
I think that nowadays plugs need changed way before the end of the plug life only due to the fact that engines run hotter than they used to, and they are normally aluminum; and if you leave them for the recommended 100K miles, the risk is greater that they'll seize. I'm at 51K. Thanks for the video. I'm not going to worry about a vacuum, but I'm also not going to just drop them in, however, I doubt that the gap was moved in this video; possible but not likely. If you're deliberate and careful, you'll know right away if you've cross threaded anything unless it's plastic threads.
You should have used a vacuum hose too gently insert that plug in there and thread it in. Doing it like that and possibly (probably did)change the Gap. And they're not regapable. You can try but there never the same, the tip will be damaged. always use anti-seize for aluminum heads like that. The threads will rust to the Head threads and tear the threads out, or blow the plug out under pressure from the damaged threads I've seen it happen. All could have been avoided by using a good aluminum anti-seize compound for aluminum heads why take the chance. And that ratchet is too big and powerful for those spark plugs. Lots of rookie mistakes going on here I wouldn't advise taking this advice at all.
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so much wrong with this one.
– blow crud away around the wells before removing coils
– use spark plug magnetic socket to remove and to place plugs back in. DON'T just drop it in
– don't use anti seize on plug threads but use dielectric grease on where porcelain meets plug 'nut' and on inside end of coil
– tighten the plug to spec, not just 'snug'
video was a pain to watch
Did you disconnect the battery? Great video!
Is the procedure for the 2.0L engine on the same year similar?
Thanks for this, I'm about to replace the coils and spark plugs on my wifes 13' Soul within the next couple days. The dealer was trying to charge her $500 to do just one set, lol.
This was perfect. Thanks for the video. First time diy spark plug job easily done.
I think that nowadays plugs need changed way before the end of the plug life only due to the fact that engines run hotter than they used to, and they are normally aluminum; and if you leave them for the recommended 100K miles, the risk is greater that they'll seize. I'm at 51K. Thanks for the video. I'm not going to worry about a vacuum, but I'm also not going to just drop them in, however, I doubt that the gap was moved in this video; possible but not likely. If you're deliberate and careful, you'll know right away if you've cross threaded anything unless it's plastic threads.
I have a 2013 Kia soul 1.6, I'm losing oil , but can't find or see oil leaks. Someone help.
Hi am a girl 26 years old and I need to know exactly what tools u sea lol please please
You should have used a vacuum hose too gently insert that plug in there and thread it in. Doing it like that and possibly (probably did)change the Gap. And they're not regapable. You can try but there never the same, the tip will be damaged. always use anti-seize for aluminum heads like that. The threads will rust to the Head threads and tear the threads out, or blow the plug out under pressure from the damaged threads I've seen it happen. All could have been avoided by using a good aluminum anti-seize compound for aluminum heads why take the chance. And that ratchet is too big and powerful for those spark plugs. Lots of rookie mistakes going on here I wouldn't advise taking this advice at all.