Part 1: Parts Cannon!! Can it be saved? 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/XGx5cooQLQY
Part 2: Frustrating Diagnosis! It LIVES AGAIN! Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/ZPBWAGcc-8M
Part 3: Old Jeeps Die HARD! Thermostatic Switch and Water Pump! 95 Wrangler 4.0
Part 4: Razor Sharp Gears!! NOT Good! Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/Q5irXiktUbI
Part 5: Smallest Shaft Ever! FRIED Flywheel! | Project JEEP! 1995 Wrangler YJ https://youtu.be/p7x3vBUR-RQ
Part 6: Exhausting! Project Jeep YJ 4.0 Wrangler https://youtu.be/NHKetNC9LFs
Part 7: COST ME BIGTIME! OOPS! Limited Slip Differential! DANA 35 Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 YJ https://youtu.be/n1MQSX3uepM
New “Wife unit” T-Shirts & Designs for the Season! https://youtu.be/6T_32dnOgTg
Customer States: Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I’ve found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake temp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
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Why no SnapOn FAR72?
I know Ray doesn't talk about prices, but I wonder what neighborhood this job is in. Must be into 5 figures by now, no?
Catter pins in the axel
Rambling Wrangler Ray
U are pressing against the thearon beaering tool
Are those welcome back kotter pins? Lol
You should be able to take the HF tool back for replacement. 2 is 1, and 1 is none.
You are brilliant! Continue doing you bro!
Hello Ray, I'm a Truck Driver in Germany, not a mechanic and know next to nothing about mechanics, so i Love your videos, it shows me what a EXPERT Mechanic has to do. Keep your Brilliant work up, Thank you, Malcolm
I did not see a clamp on the right side tie rod end. Did you take it apart again to install it?
Ray love the stuff you do. I know you have Wife unit in the office but I'm missing the phone ringing…doodley doodley doo's. Regards Mark in the UK
Rowdy Yates would be proud of you….
Where was the front sway bar? I seen the loops on the frame didn’t I?
Ray, review the video. HF ball joint tool would have worked if you had the pivot set up properly. You had it set up for a longer joint, so you ran out of threads when screwing it down. That is why it got bent and failed. If you look at your other tool that did work, it was set up in the proper joint. So if you had moved the adjustable joint down on the HF tool, it too would have worked.
Very impressive Ray. Congratulations. Thanks for the video as well.
Well, sir, we're scanning your last three videos on our quest to eradicate YouTube Comment Section Parasite Spammer/scammers. and here goes:
— Scanning —
Scanning 1/3: Data Junkie DURAMAX! Better than a scan Tool! iDash @bankspower 2007 Silverado LBZ 6.6 Diesel
Scanning 2/3: All about Tone
Scanning 3/3: Project Jeep is ALIVE! Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0
Total: [1104/1107] (100%) | Comments Scanned: 912 | Replies Scanned: 192 | Matches Found So Far: 0
No matched comments or users found!
Well THAT's a first. Love it! You're clean. Now go and sin no more. lol
This is a great series. I noticed one thing that you must have done off camera. The front driveshaft was not installed. Am I wrong or was that intentional?
To get that debris out of the axle tube just clean it like a shotgun barrel.
Pass side seals after cad
Question, were you supposed to leave the cover on the driver-side tie rod bushing? looks like passenger side was different. Also the rod attached to the pitman arm.
What fuel tank that have? 16(.5) or 20? We have one in the shop, the big 4.2L YJ and it had the 20 gal in it. My Googlefu found the 4.2 didn't come with 20 gal tank. Only 2.4 and 4.0 did. We had a hard time removing the tank Jerry rigged mounted already had holes / damage in tank. The prybar added more.. As it wouldn't drop as a unit tank/plate per service guide. Couldnt find replacement based from VIN. Its a 88 Jeep YJ 4.0L L-6.
Hi, nice video. I thought the plastic caps at the ball joints are used for protection only during transport and have to be removed before installation ?!?!? (i.e. the cap that fell off (automatically ,-)) mounting the tie rod.)
Wouldn't it have been better to clean the rust off those parts before reinstalling them?