Great slow and thorough explanation of the front end parts their function and diagnostic job as well– I think people with much less knowledge than you work on vehicles– I have a 96 ZJ 5.2 and replaced ALL front end parts including steering box and iron man fixed control arms excluding ball joints– Everything nice and tight now with no squeaks — gotta love to turn wrenches and figure things out
Passing the torch, in so thorough a way. Kudos to you. And many thanks. This is a small nit pick of a suggestion that may not be needed, since, anyone who pays attention to your fine contribution will see that at 8:52, you said Drag Link and meant, I believe, Tie Rod. A small annotation may prevent the small “Huh?” moment. Or maybe you were just testing us.
Excellent video. I found that my draglink on the axel end is worn out. So I figured as soon as I can I would upgrade to synergy. But I also saw that you commented about have a 3.5″ lift with a dropped pitman arm. I’m not sure if I have the relocation bracket that you are talking about but I should go back to stock pitman arm and adjustable trackbar along with synergy draglink?
Generally, I suggest that people upgrade the entire drag link to something like the Synergy High Steer Drag Link, Part #8001, for around $200. It can be run either in the stock position or flipped to the top of the knuckle.
To replace the long end side, the part number is 52060048AD. You can buy them from the dealer, Quadratec, and other places for maybe $70.
great vid ! Just have to know, Where did you find the LONG drag link end part ? The part that goes from the steering knuckle back to the collar or did you replace the whole drag link ? Thx u
Gary, if your rod ends are bad, you would likely see it in a dry steering test. Bad tie rod ends would not clank on braking. More likely, you either have loose or worn front upper or lower control arm bolts or bushings–particularly the front upper axle side bushings and/or front lower cambolts if you have cambolts.
Great Video Both Parts. I have a WJ grand cherokee and I noticed you mentioned the straight tube that has tie rod ends on each side (lower portion) and that the play is normal (you were moving by hand). I have that same play on my WJ, but it seems when i drive and come to a stop, it clanks downward and i can easily hear it with the window down driving around town. I was thinking of new tie rod and and the steering tube, but not now before i run through your list. Any thoughts about the clanking.
Regarding the drag link and tie rod ends, you can replace ends, but it is better to upgrade (Rock Krawler, Currie, Synergy). If you are on a budget, you can usually find take-off parts from people who have upgraded.
No reputable shop would do an alignment with worn ends.
Most shops will only adjust your toe spec anyway–which takes about 15 minutes max to do by yourself with the help of a friend, a measuring tape, some chalk or a marker, basic tools and a pair of jack stands.
A 3.5″ lift that uses a drop pitman arm, plus a front trackbar relocation bracket is asking for trouble. The drop pitman arm puts too much leverage on the steering box, and a frame side trackbar drop bracket puts too much leverage on the stock bracket. I’ve seen many bad failures with this inferior, cost cutting design. If this is what you have, remove the drop bracket, go back to the stock pitman arm, and buy an adjustable front trackbar (JKS, Teraflex, Synergy, Rock Krawler, Currie, etc.).
Hi, i have a 2007 jk unlimited rubicon and I just put a 3.5 inch lift on it. i put coils shocks, sway bar links, sterring stabilizer relocation bracket,and trackbar relocation brackets in the back and front. i have never had deathwobble until i messed with the front end. i have not gotten an alignment yet but when i do this test i do se that the ends of the drag link and tie rod has up and down movement. also i have had my tires balanced and there is no movement in the track bar. what do i do?
You have more going on. A speed dependent, easily repeatable wobble every time you reach that speed is usually tire-wheel related. What you are describing is more than that.
To summarize I’m curious if what you outlined in this video is the tire/wheel related issues that cause speed dependent wobble or if tire/wheel related specifically specifically deals with tire/ wheel issues. Thank you again for the informative videos.
Awesome vids. I’m excited to look at this on my jeep in the morning. I’m curious if the tire/wheel related shimmy/wobble would also be the cause I have been experiencing. I was having the issue when traveling at over 55mph when I hit a bump at speed causing a pretty extreme wobble and shimmy in the driver side/front wheel. I recently had my tires balanced and now notice it when braking from around 40mph, which goes away by pressing more firmly on the brakes. What do you think?
Thanks for the great informative video! Suggestion, Next time back the jeep into the garage and leave the door open, so the sun will light things better.
I have a slight steering whelk vibration at 50mph goes away when I speed up or slow down..is this the DW or just a jeep being a jeep? I tighten the track bar 14mm (should be 9/16) bolts to 125 ft lbs every oil change
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whew,must have dozed off for a second
Thanks for taking the time to post these. I had my first DW experience two days ago on a TJ I just bought. This will help a lot to diagnose!
Great slow and thorough explanation of the front end parts their function and diagnostic job as well– I think people with much less knowledge than you work on vehicles– I have a 96 ZJ 5.2 and replaced ALL front end parts including steering box and iron man fixed control arms excluding ball joints– Everything nice and tight now with no squeaks — gotta love to turn wrenches and figure things out
Thumbs up man … great job!!
I only wish the Dodge dealer mechanics were this thorough … your friend is fortunate.
Good catch. I meant that you would use the channel locks to check for up and down movement in the tie rod ends and in the drag link ends.
Passing the torch, in so thorough a way. Kudos to you. And many thanks. This is a small nit pick of a suggestion that may not be needed, since, anyone who pays attention to your fine contribution will see that at 8:52, you said Drag Link and meant, I believe, Tie Rod. A small annotation may prevent the small “Huh?” moment. Or maybe you were just testing us.
You should go back to a stock pitman arm, remove the front trackbar bracket, and upgrade to an adjustable front trackbar.
Actually I do have the track bar relocation bracket. What are your suggestions?
Excellent video. I found that my draglink on the axel end is worn out. So I figured as soon as I can I would upgrade to synergy. But I also saw that you commented about have a 3.5″ lift with a dropped pitman arm. I’m not sure if I have the relocation bracket that you are talking about but I should go back to stock pitman arm and adjustable trackbar along with synergy draglink?
Generally, I suggest that people upgrade the entire drag link to something like the Synergy High Steer Drag Link, Part #8001, for around $200. It can be run either in the stock position or flipped to the top of the knuckle.
To replace the long end side, the part number is 52060048AD. You can buy them from the dealer, Quadratec, and other places for maybe $70.
great vid ! Just have to know, Where did you find the LONG drag link end part ? The part that goes from the steering knuckle back to the collar or did you replace the whole drag link ? Thx u
Gary, if your rod ends are bad, you would likely see it in a dry steering test. Bad tie rod ends would not clank on braking. More likely, you either have loose or worn front upper or lower control arm bolts or bushings–particularly the front upper axle side bushings and/or front lower cambolts if you have cambolts.
Great Video Both Parts. I have a WJ grand cherokee and I noticed you mentioned the straight tube that has tie rod ends on each side (lower portion) and that the play is normal (you were moving by hand). I have that same play on my WJ, but it seems when i drive and come to a stop, it clanks downward and i can easily hear it with the window down driving around town. I was thinking of new tie rod and and the steering tube, but not now before i run through your list. Any thoughts about the clanking.
very thorough, truly appreciate the detailed rundown
Regarding the drag link and tie rod ends, you can replace ends, but it is better to upgrade (Rock Krawler, Currie, Synergy). If you are on a budget, you can usually find take-off parts from people who have upgraded.
No reputable shop would do an alignment with worn ends.
Most shops will only adjust your toe spec anyway–which takes about 15 minutes max to do by yourself with the help of a friend, a measuring tape, some chalk or a marker, basic tools and a pair of jack stands.
A 3.5″ lift that uses a drop pitman arm, plus a front trackbar relocation bracket is asking for trouble. The drop pitman arm puts too much leverage on the steering box, and a frame side trackbar drop bracket puts too much leverage on the stock bracket. I’ve seen many bad failures with this inferior, cost cutting design. If this is what you have, remove the drop bracket, go back to the stock pitman arm, and buy an adjustable front trackbar (JKS, Teraflex, Synergy, Rock Krawler, Currie, etc.).
do i have to replace the entire bars or can i just replaced the ends? or will the alignment fix everything. thank you
Hi, i have a 2007 jk unlimited rubicon and I just put a 3.5 inch lift on it. i put coils shocks, sway bar links, sterring stabilizer relocation bracket,and trackbar relocation brackets in the back and front. i have never had deathwobble until i messed with the front end. i have not gotten an alignment yet but when i do this test i do se that the ends of the drag link and tie rod has up and down movement. also i have had my tires balanced and there is no movement in the track bar. what do i do?
Thanks, Great Video!
You have more going on. A speed dependent, easily repeatable wobble every time you reach that speed is usually tire-wheel related. What you are describing is more than that.
To summarize I’m curious if what you outlined in this video is the tire/wheel related issues that cause speed dependent wobble or if tire/wheel related specifically specifically deals with tire/ wheel issues. Thank you again for the informative videos.
Awesome vids. I’m excited to look at this on my jeep in the morning. I’m curious if the tire/wheel related shimmy/wobble would also be the cause I have been experiencing. I was having the issue when traveling at over 55mph when I hit a bump at speed causing a pretty extreme wobble and shimmy in the driver side/front wheel. I recently had my tires balanced and now notice it when braking from around 40mph, which goes away by pressing more firmly on the brakes. What do you think?
Thanks planman. I used your videos to diagnose my issue. Track bar…
Thanks for the great informative video! Suggestion, Next time back the jeep into the garage and leave the door open, so the sun will light things better.
Great set of videos! Thanks for the education…
Thank you kind Sir for sharing your knowledge. This will save me hundreds. With 3 kids, every dollar counts!
A speed dependent, easily repeatable wobble or shimmy is not Death Wobble.
A speed dependent wobble that you can drive out of by going faster is tire/wheel related.
I have a slight steering whelk vibration at 50mph goes away when I speed up or slow down..is this the DW or just a jeep being a jeep? I tighten the track bar 14mm (should be 9/16) bolts to 125 ft lbs every oil change
Super video. Thanks for taking the time. Looks like my same drag link has play in it!
Other solid axle vehicles with 4 control arms and a trackbar are similar (jeeps and dodges).
The torque specs are different, and the brackets are different, but the principles are the same.
Glad the videos helped.
great video by the way hopefully I find my problem tomorow, thank you
Does this work for 97 zj cause trackbar and everything look the same
good stuff planman. well done sir! a great contribute to the JK community.