Jeepster Removing Intake Manifold on a 96 Jeep Cherokee Country. This is the first video of me replacing the exhaust manifold on my Jeep.
Jeepster Removing Intake Manifold on a 96 Jeep Cherokee Country. This is the first video of me replacing the exhaust manifold on my Jeep.
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Thanks for the video, Helpful hint take belt of Power Steering pump first
and use the holes in the pully wheel to remove the bolts holding pump on.
Still a mystery on how to find the two bolts on the underside of the intake
on a 2000 Jeep Wrangler.
I just wanted to say what a great job you did on your video. It helped me
change my manifold out much fast than it would have otherwise taken. I also
wanted to compliment how you explained most of it step by step. I just
wanted to add a few things. First, how to take off the accelerator cable,
cruise control cable, and throttle valve (transmission) cable. I broke my
throttle valve cable since I couldn’t really tell how you took it off. The
accel cable has a metal attachment so it just pops off with a screwdriver.
Just push it perpendicular from the throttle body bracket toward the back
of the Jeep. The other two cables have plastic attachments which can break
if you try to pull them off which is what I did. To take them off, you have
to slide each one off to the right (driver’s) side. Second, your sheet has
different torque specs for the bolts than I have found at other places. My
manifold didn’t come with any instructions so I had to refer to my
Chilton’s manual. My Chilton’s manual has 23ft-lbs, 17ft-lbs, 23ft-lbs.
Your sheet has 24ft-lbs for all bolts. Jeeps Unlimited ”
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?496460-ZJ-Torque-Specs-from-A-to-Z!” shows
24ft-lbs, 23ft-lbs, 24ft-lbs. I’m not sure why there are so many different
specs for the same thing, but I ended up doing 24, 23, 24 since it was not
much different than your sheet. The link I added also has all of the torque
specs for all of the other bolts. Thanks again and I look forward to
watching all of your other videos.
Hey, thanks a lot for the removing and installing exhaust manifold videos.I
just did the job today.It took me 7 hours to complete it.Just one question,
like you when i fired the Jeep after all reinstalled , i had a lot os smoke
coming from the engine bay (i respected the torque specs) is it normal ?
Will this smoke go away after a few miles ? Thanks for your answer.
thans for answering, i bought a Crown exhaust manifold (cherokee XJ 4.0L).
That would be Stanley. Thanks for watching!
the tool to take off the line to the fuel rail would of heled so much took
me forever to figure out how to get that off great video
helps alot thanks
Thanks for the great video!!!
got a 1 direction ratchet wrench stuck on the watter pump bolt behind the
pully …….. 30 sec mistake …… 3 hour fix
It’s not too bad. 🙂 The new APN is great. Thanks for watching!
thanks for actually showing the removal of each thing not just suddenly
things gone. also is there a certain tightness for the belt or just make it
as tight as you can?
Yeah, Thanks for watching and posting your comment! The belt I do by feel,
but there is a “proper “way. You can use a tension gauge (if you are lucky
enough to own one) or use a straight edge and a ruler to measure the travel
when you push on the belt between pulleys. Should be 1/4 of an inch if the
pulleys are 7-11 in. apart. Hope that helps!
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching!
how did you find all the bolts below the manifold, also how did you reach
them? i can only see two bottom bolts and the manifold itsself was pretty
much in the way of the rachet
So true, Thanks for posting.
much easier on a 96, my 01 is being a massive cunt.
Oh man! Lucky here, mine came off with the bracket. Thanks for the comment!
Yeah, I’m not sure how you could do it without the tool! Thanks for
watching!
thats a neat ratchet, who makes it?
That diagram, I show on my next (install) video, show where they all are. I
think I was able to use a deep well socket with a long extension for most
of the bottom ones. There was one ( I think on top) all I could get on it
was an open end wrench because of the fuel rail. Thanks for watching!!
Header/Manifold Crack Issues All 4.0Ls will crack The exhaust system of a
4.0L Jeep has to deal with very high temperatures due to the 4.0L’s lean
air/fuel calibration that, when coupled with a long and inflexible
intermediate tube that leverages the tubular header, is a perfect recipe
for cracking. In fact, even some aftermarket steel and stainless steel
headers may not prove immune. jpmagazine
Seems like a pain! Awesome video. Maybe I’ll get to doing mine one day