I just did this job on my 2006 XKR. I used zip-ties to connect the tophat to the spring to keep that part together and aligned. And after fighting the shock for an hour, I zip-tied the bottom of the shock to the spring, compressed. That way I didn't have to fight it any more. The second side went in much more quickly. Otherwise it looks very similar to mine. Nice job. Oh, and I never removed the socket from the spring compressor. I figured I'd never get it back on.
I just did this last winter, what a rubbish design lol. On an import its usually 2-3 bolts on top, 1-2 bolts underneath, all accessible.
I didn't remove the rear axles, but I did have to use the spring compressor a LOT more. Ugh and the tiny little shock flats on the top of the shocks, I hated those. Instead of smushing the shocks over the top of the lower arm, I put them in from underneath. Slid them up through the spring into the top hat. Which means you gotta assembly the top bushings inside the car.
I ended up 3D printing myself new spring seats for the tops. 1/2" lower. Ran the numbers and the psi on top of the spring is surprisingly low. I used 100% infill PETG, they haven't exploded yet.
He is Right. They wanted $1600 to replace my 1997 XJ6 rear shocks and rubber Bushing.. I did the jobs for under $500 all parts and took me 2 hours each side raining my time..by the way… I did it at 57yrs by myself… haha
Smart move disconnecting the driveshaft. I took some bad internet advice and left it attached. The only bad internet advice I have for you is to cut an inch or two off the Harbor Freight spring compressor threads so you can cinch the spring down a bit more. This does make getting the spring out and in easier when it’s compressed more. We all knew this wasn’t gonna be hella easy when we saw you were not doing this curbside! What luxury is this empty parking lot…
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I just did this job on my 2006 XKR. I used zip-ties to connect the tophat to the spring to keep that part together and aligned. And after fighting the shock for an hour, I zip-tied the bottom of the shock to the spring, compressed. That way I didn't have to fight it any more. The second side went in much more quickly.
Otherwise it looks very similar to mine. Nice job.
Oh, and I never removed the socket from the spring compressor. I figured I'd never get it back on.
I just did this last winter, what a rubbish design lol. On an import its usually 2-3 bolts on top, 1-2 bolts underneath, all accessible.
I didn't remove the rear axles, but I did have to use the spring compressor a LOT more. Ugh and the tiny little shock flats on the top of the shocks, I hated those. Instead of smushing the shocks over the top of the lower arm, I put them in from underneath. Slid them up through the spring into the top hat. Which means you gotta assembly the top bushings inside the car.
I ended up 3D printing myself new spring seats for the tops. 1/2" lower. Ran the numbers and the psi on top of the spring is surprisingly low. I used 100% infill PETG, they haven't exploded yet.
Man keep doing your thing your the only person showing how to with on the x300
Seems quite a bit more difficult than on the XJ40. No need to remove the drive shaft on the XJ40.
Whoa! It's X300 week with Jesse, Living with a Classic and Furious Driving!
Thanks for doing the video. This is gonna have a lot of people that are scared to do this job..I was.
He is Right. They wanted $1600 to replace my 1997 XJ6 rear shocks and rubber Bushing.. I did the jobs for under $500 all parts and took me 2 hours each side raining my time..by the way… I did it at 57yrs by myself… haha
Smart move disconnecting the driveshaft. I took some bad internet advice and left it attached. The only bad internet advice I have for you is to cut an inch or two off the Harbor Freight spring compressor threads so you can cinch the spring down a bit more. This does make getting the spring out and in easier when it’s compressed more. We all knew this wasn’t gonna be hella easy when we saw you were not doing this curbside! What luxury is this empty parking lot…
that’s a tough job … good instructions though … is “fin” a cali thing ..