Scotty Kilmer, mechanic for the last 46 years, shows how to use a set of AC gauges to fix non working car air conditioning systems. And, If you like my car h…
Scotty Kilmer, mechanic for the last 46 years, shows how to use a set of AC gauges to fix non working car air conditioning systems. And, If you like my car h…
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Thank you Scotty for this information.
Thanks Scotty just curious what has the outside humidity have anything to
do with the AC pressure.
Scotty please help me! My AC is acting weird it hard to explain but here I
go! Couple months back my AC didn’t want to turn on (note AC light wasn’t
flashing) it did all the sounds but didnt blow air when I selected any
speed. after a couple minutes later it started working again (didn’t take
it to diagnose) couple month later yesterday it did it again almost all day
(it was a rainy cold humid day ) it did all the sounds AC didn’t flash but
it didn’t blow air! Then today it did turn on and blew air BUT it smelled
funny like humidity? Please tell me your guess on what u think it is and
the price for everything (a guess) thank you its a Toyota Solara from 2006
Hi Scotty.
I really need some good advice. My friend bought a Land Rover Discovery 1
as the quality of the provision is not a car that impresses me. Right now I
am about to repair the backlight and side lights at the front, both on the
right side of the car. I have a suspicion that the two errors is related to
an error somewhere else in the car. There has previously been mounted some
kind of extra lights, Multi plug in the rear has one wire clipped (the red
/ orange wire) It is left. The right side is the same wire cut and mounted
on a connector on the headlight for a reason I do not know. The cast metal
circuit on the right rear light is placed through the plastic, as well as
on the back of the lamp is melted. Despite I fit two new lights in the back
I still can not measure the current in the right taillight and position.
Flashers and brake lights are working as it should, the problem is as I
said can not be measured current in the entire right side of the car
headlight Anyone here who have experienced similar problems? And how did
you get them resolved?
Sincerely, one resigned bolts and nuts mechanic.
PS. In the old days there was shown a rumor or a truth about American and
some British cars often had lamp failure front and rear on the same side of
the car
Hey Scotty, any chance you could do a video on how to best reclaim r134
refrigerant without spending a fortune to buy a recovery machine for us
DIYers?
Hi scotty,
I checked the live data for my car. I noticed something weird. The ambient
temperature is 0 C all the time. Never change at all. My AC blows cool air,
but not cold enough. Could it be bad ambient temperature causing the AC not
working properly? or there is no connection between the ambient temperature
sensor and the AC?
thanks in advance.
My honda civic 1995 shakes really bad when its high tempereture what could
be????:-(
Scotty, your videos are great! Maybe you can answer a question for me. My
a/c system was empty for a very long time due to a hose fitting breaking
loose. I just replaced the hose after flushing the system, changing the
accumulator, orifice tube, and so forth. I filled the system, and was very
proud of myself for a couple of days being as it worked perfectly.
BUT THEN: I stopped at a red light, and the engine revs climbed up to about
3000 and hung there. When I switched the a/c off, the revs returned to
normal idle speed. It does this constantly when the a/c is on, so I’m
without cold air at the moment. What did I do wrong?
I really need some advice. I evacuated my system on my Honda Civic.
Everything went well. After adding 22oz of refridge, my low side gauge
reads 0 with the clutch engaged and when the clutch is off the pressure
will climb upwards of 150-170 psi. With the car off the pressure will max
out at 350psi.
Why is it doing this? I’m at my wits end and I can’t afford for a shop to
do it. Please help.
Hey Scotty, i have a 92 Toyota Camry where the ac compressor clutch just
constantly runs. The clutch never cycles off even on a 65 degree rainy
morning it just constantly runs. I replaced the hi/low pressure switch but
it stills just constantly runs. Is there a adjustment for this switch or
what?
Hey Scotty. What do I do when I hook up a gauged refrigerant can while
everything is running to the Low side and the needle shoots to about 65 and
when I squeeze the trigger to fill it, it goes to 0 and stays there? I’ve
even let out all the air while the car was off and it still didn’t fix the
problem. I let go of the trigger and it just shoots back up to 65 or 75.
Thanks pal! By the way its a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer ES
Hi Scotty…minute 1:26 You spit right on my face 😛
My AC is cool (when moving) not cold. I bought the gauges and read about
190 on the high (red) and about 86 low (blue). So my thought was expansion
valve. Paid $35 to have a mechanic verify. He vacuumed and charged. No
colder. He said its compressor leaking and so it doesn’t have enough
pressure. He wants to change compressor and accumulator for $850. I didn’t
get the warm fuzzy that he was totally competent on his diagnosis. Any
thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi Scotty, my ac works good but sweat a lot the Receiver Drier Air
Conditioning filter. Whats do u think the problem? thanks
Scotty how about if my low pressure is normal and my high side is up to
300, could I have a clogged receiver dryer or could I have a clogged
expansion valve? Temperature is 90ºF (34ºC) about 30% humidity.
When I touch the low side hose is not even cold the high side is hot to the
touch. Why when I drive the car when the wind blow trough the condenser it
gets a bit cooler?
I do appreciate your video and response. I couldn’t bare the $850 for
compressor so I did some more looking. My 2006 Ford Freestyle along with
some other older Fords and Chevys use a scroll type compressor. A common
problem with them is a $35 scroll valve located on back of compressor. 30
min fix. Symptom was ” warm at idol and cold while driving. Thanks again
for the video and input what got interested in doing it myself and not
spending the money on the whole compressor.
Mr. Scotty,
Replaced Compressor, Evaporator and Dryer a year ago on 04 Pacifica.
Heading home from a road trip heard odd roar for about 20 sec. and than
again a minute later then the AC stopped blowing cold. now compressor wont
engage. check pressures with device like yours by professional and said
that it has charge, replaced pressure/transducer switch, checked fuses and
relays not luck getting compressor to come on. also cooling fans not coming
on when AC is on. Please advise. cant afford another $1,000. But really
feel that it may be something simple. Also they don’t just sell a clutch
anymore you gotta buy whole compressor! Is there a relay Im missing or a
switch anything like that?!
I have a Nippondenso air conditioning system in a motorhome. I had to
replace the compressor, which is an A6 GM unit. I have replaced the
expansion valve, the tri-level pressure switch in the expander compartment
and the dryer. The system takes a nominal 4.2 lbs of R134. I charged with
about 4.4 lbs. The cooling works fine, with about 43°F air coming out of
the ducts with outdoor temp of about 76°F. The low pressure side is about
28 PSI but the high side only climbs to about 140 PSI, with the compressor
running at about 1500 RPM. All the literature I find indicates that it
should be higher, like 190+PSI. Occasionally the compressor cycles off/on
for about 10 seconds. Any suggestions?
Scotty – like everyone else that’s subscribed… love the videos you are a
great teacher. – ’06 1500 suburban – I believe I have a leak. I was having
an issue where my front ac wasn’t cooling well, but my rear was still cold.
Before watching all of your videos, I would add r134a and the front would
get cold again for a week. I recently checked with the gauges I bought from
Harbor Freight (you should get commission from them) and i had 0 low and 50
high. I added the correct amount of r134a and my gauges show 36 low and 175
high (75 degrees low humidity). But my compressor stays engaged now. It
doesn’t cycle. Any thoughts? I still think I have a leak. I can’t find the
dye in the engine area or underneath along the lines to the rear air, but
this doesn’t explain the compressor staying engaged.
What does oil charge added to the system mean? and does to the compressor?
Hey Scotty, I have 2009 Honda Fit with air conditioning that runs normally
within the first few minutes of starting the car, but after the car has ran
for a while (regardless of the air conditioner being on or not during that
time) it loses effectiveness until the car has ran for about 20min, at this
point it’s blowing air at outside air temp. I should also note that as it’s
losing effectiveness, you can hear and feel the air coming from the vents
becoming more restricted, and when running the air conditioner, even for a
short time, there is always a larger puddle of water underneath compared to
how much it used to drain. I would greatly appreciate any help!
So if I have a low pressure of 0 and I charged it with about 10oz of freon
and the pressure stays at zero, does that mean I have a leak? Also the car
will start up blowing fairly cool air but then blows warm after about 10 to
15min. Does that also indicate a leak somewhere?
Scotty – when I turn on the ac on my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee the compressor
doesn’t come on. When i put a socket wrench on the compressor it turns
normally (as you showed on another one of your videos). This seems to me to
be more of an electrical issue, like maybe a short in the electrical
system. I also am thinking that the cycling switch could be faulty.
Scotty, I have a 2004 Kia Sorento ,Of witch I just replaced the air
compressure twice. T e first time I replaced the expansion valve and
something that looked like a tampon, from the condenser. I then ran a flush
through the lines (not the condenser) ,I then ran a vacuum for 30 min. I
put 6 oz of oil in the compressor before installing. I then put 22 oz of
Freon in the system. Work good for about ten min. then the clutch started
slipping and burned up. I had to replace the compressor again. I pulled a
vacuum again the slowly refilled the system, This time when it started to
squeal I checked the pressure and it was around 100. Why is it increasing.
What am I doing wrong. Could the new expansion valve be bad. HELP
Help
Scotty
First thanks for all the Help and Knowledge you Share.
I have a 92 honda civic Vx
two years ago I changed everything in A/C system short of Compressor, Evap,
Exp Valve, Dryer, Condenser, and Flushed all lines Changed all o rings and
converted to 134a I did not change compressor due to $$$…I got good cold
air for last two years
(I live in Florida ) recently in AM drive to work temps 82-85 the A/C
blows Cold down to 56 at vent. However on way home when its 92 the
compressor kicks out and will not engage. So I checked the pressures and
35- 45 on low side and 195 on High side. However the pressure builds with
increased rpm until high side pressure get to 250 and the compressor Kicks
out….the low side pressure also decreases to around 25-30 as the rpms
increase. The car has 250 k on it and so I am thinking this old R 12
compressor is prob seen its better day. the High side needle has little
vibration at Idle however needle on gauge smooths out as RPM increases.
Love to hear any suggestions you have.
My car is 2003 Buick Century. Every time i drive i feel warm coming out and
the AC is not even turn on. When i turn on the AC just warm air comes out
hi. wanted your input. have an 02 pontiac trans am w/ ac issue. stopped
cooling bout 3 months ago. the compressor was making some clunking noises
when cooling quit. finally got around to hooking up a gauge set. am
gettting low side pegged on the gauge (350psi or ~ 17bars), high side is @
175psi or ~12 bars engine off. same results engine on. clutch is engaging..
no change on pressures. so pretty sure compressor is shot. my questions for
you are.. why would the low side show such a high pressure when havent used
the ac for several months? what are possible other components i need to
look at as faulty when i start repairs? i was puzzled by the high pressure
on the low side.. am thinking it should equalize. but to me indicates a
blockage somewhere. on the plus side im fairly certain theres no leaks.
thanks for any guidance in advance.
Where do you find the charts for temperature variations in the gauge
readings?
Hey Scotty, I have an 04 Mustang GT, and the AC tends to run hot for a few
seconds after idling at a red light for a lengthy amount of time. After it
turns green and I’m driving around 40-45 MPH, it starts to blow cold again.
Frankly, the AC doesn’t entirely blow ICE cold to begin with. When it’s
~100 degrees outside, there is no doubt there will be a lot of sweat going
on. If I had to guess, it feels like it’s only blowing 60 degrees
Fahrenheit, which doesn’t exactly compensate for the very high temperatures
outside. I rented a set of gauges, and my high side reads 61, while my low
side reads about 50. Does that mean my compressor is shot? I’ve replaced
the thing twice already, and within the last year or so I’ve bought a brand
new one. I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong or not, but – I guess
I’ll just replace the compressor. Would that be the correct step to take?
Hey Scotty, the air works in my 09 accord but only on the drivers side. the
gauges say I’m fine..any thoughts? Thanks!