Well here you are after many requests for this one it’s finally here. I shot this last spring but I’ve been saving it for you as a special present. In this e…
Front Disc Brakes and How to Replace Them – EricTheCarGuy
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent and this video saved me 350$. Local big name
shop wanted 400$ to do my front brakes. 50$ in parts and grease and I was
able to do them myself. Thanks Eric!
@EricTheCarGuy I have a similar Taurus, 2004 SES with Duratec. I’ve been
having disc brake problems since this past winter. My brakes squeak when
they are cold, or at low speed/pressure. I didn’t have this problem last
year. Currently, my car has 71,000 miles on it. What is the problem? Do I
need to service them?
thanks eric it was very helpful and different fr other method i’ve seen…
Hey EricTheCarGuy,
I had my 2010 Ford Edge (44000km) front rotors and brakes replaced on July
24 at a repair shop, and couple of days later I noticed some noise came
from front of the car. The humming noise was getting louder and louder
especially step on gas or brake. I took back to the repair shop on 16
September they told me that the left font wheel bearing was broken and
going to charge me $350 to replace a new one. My question is what the
chance is that their installation of rotors and brakes damaged my wheel
bearing?
I did this to my 99 Civic SiR, main problem is the piston which is a
quarter pushed inside the caliper. I didn’t try the vice grips method, was
afraid that it’ll bust the hose. Is there any method/ thing to do before
you park the car for the piston to be fully inside so as not to have the
trouble to push it in when you disassemble the calipers?
When you write “I do it this way to protect the master cylinder” do you
mean opening up the bleeder and sending the fluid to the bottle? What bad
thing will happen to the master cylinder if you just send the brake fluid
back where it came from?
I don’t know what it is about brakes, but they always look fun to me. But
maybe I’m only saying this due to my relative lack of experience. I’m
really looking forward to taking my brakes class this semester, especially
since my pads are getting a little low and I’m sure the fluid is nearing
the end of it’s life.
As for removing stuck rotors, the few times I had to do it I just whacked
the back of the rotor with a rubber mallet and worked just fine. But then
again, rust isn’t really an issue here since I live in southern CA. And as
for pushing back in the pistons, I used a C-clamp instead using giant
channel locks. :)
I’ve seen tens of mechanics service the pads and rotors but none did it
this way, i even worked at a hyundai stealers for a while. All the do is
squeeze the living shit out of the piston, and never seen anyoneuse any
lube in that area ! i love your method
Just did mine, thanks to this guide (and like 2 others) everything went
well! Thanks Eric
My caliper doesn’t slide out easy enough to just take off. Plz help
Eric knows lots about lube.
Somebody buy this man a steak and a cold beer.
And also Q73 if we wanted your opinion we’d ask you for it we are not
watching your channel we’re watching Erics so please keep your amateur
chatter to a minimum thanks. I believe he’s (eric) is saying this is what
he does for maximum proformence and you do not have to use what he uses but
it’s the way he does it and feel free to try his method. Jeezus Christmas
people just have to run they’re mouths everywhere just so they can be
heard. People use to talk she-ite about movie stars now people try to even
talk shit on YouTube videos????? Stop being jealous of people and be your
own person already
I don’t fully agree with Eric’s approach. 1. Resurfacing rotors, really? So
what even if they are bent a few micrometers if the pins move in and out
with it? Think! 2. Bleed only if you have no c-clamp handy. Be careful how
you tighten the valve-they brake easily. 3. Make sure the giuding pins have
not seized. Most of the service stations don’t check them and just slam the
new pads, get the money and kick you out. Pins are essential for well
working brakes. I don’t know what is this silicon paste. I used regular
high-temp resistant grease. I didn’t know grease eats the boot. Then how
the cv-joint boots stay “uneaten” for about 10 years? I’d simply clean out
the holes for them from the old grease. 4. Make sure your pads match the
okd ones and have the shims on them and the pad with the sound spring goes
on the outside part of the rotor. Provided you have such pads of course. 5.
Don’t overtighten, better use non-permanent soft thread locker. 6. Measure
the thikness of the rotors each brake pad change and keep it in check. When
too thin, replace. Forget about resurfacing and cleaning it. 7. Don’t just
change anything because you think you can. Brakes that need changing squeal
a lot and are still good for many more miles. Of course, once the mid line
is gone, they have to be replaced.
+EricTheCarGuy I did this exact procedure on the front, and I now have a
spongey pedal that goes to floor.. should I bleed them?
I plan to do this replacement soon. But do I really need to bleed out the
brakefluid? What can happen if I just push inn the piston without bleeding?
Quick questions. I know my brakes are horrible and I’m about to replace
them. Now if my steering wheel shakes is it definitely the rotors? Or could
really bad brakes cause this? And also if I change the brakes can I go back
and change the rotors in a week or two? Thanks dude.
How often do you replace the calipers? I just purchased some discs for the
front, but the calipers are a lot more pricey.
Super helpful! Just replaced my rear brake cylinder (curse you drum
brakes!) just to realize the problem was my rotors. Didn’t realize it was
this easy, will be changing them soon, thanks!
How do i measure the rotors to know it they need to be replaced? Reading a
micrometer is confusing. Can’t America just embrace the metric system
already.
are those brake rotors sold on ebay a good buy
or should i stick with local autoparts?
thanks
Pretty clear and easy to understand; good video. Even if you can’t D-I-Y,
it’s nice to know the right way it’s to be done. Thanks.
That Pantera at the end.
Seeing how a metal chunk flew out of my brake assembly today, I will be
changing my rotors/pads very very soon.
When cleaning parts it is best to use a grinder with a wire brush to clean
everything ,, works great for cleaning threads
You should remove labels on Soft drinks bottles that you use for storing
other liquids, got some of the guys in the shop drinking paint thinner. No
label, no drinking. Safety first
Thank you again, Eric! I was in the middle of a brake job and I couldn’t
remember if I had skipped a step (thankfully I hadn’t XD) but the video was
a helpful refresher
Thanks for the video Eric, do you need to clamp the brake hose for all
types of cars, also should you do it closer to the master cylinder or at
the brake mechanism itself?
as always, great video! i need to get the balls (and funds, of course) to
do this operation on my vic!
Another gem, thanks Eric!
this was just a giant mystery to me until you revealed your wisdom! so
grateful.
I do not like the brake hose with vise grip method, if you want to avoid
the old fluid from the caliper to go back to the master cylinder, then just
crack the bleeder valve open then compress piston into caliper. Old fluid
will leave the caliper so in sense you do a partial bleed.
Did I see you clamping a rubber brake line with a vise grips?Are you
kidding? I wouldn’t let you work on my car.
you are the man..
Why must you replace the pads if you are replacing the rotors if the pads
are not worn out? If they are not worn out one would think there is enough
pad material to build up on the rotor.
No one at whole Youtube explains these points better than You. Your are
real expert in this field.
*The Best. Excellent. Superb*.– It is one kind of philanthropy to provide
USEFUL knowledge to people free of charge. And when we read all scriptures
of mankind history, Core message of all scriptures is none but philanthropy
followed under Divine Laws.
God bless U in abundance always. U are an excellent human being. If every
one is like U, this planet will be a paradise
might as well replace the wheel bearings while you at it
I just finished changing rotors & brake pads on my 82 Buick. Passagers side
went fine. Driver side was a little harder. When I went to tighten the
bottom bolt that holds the brake caliper on it was alot harder to get on
compared the top one. Also when I spun the wheel I can hear the pads
rubbing on the rotor a bit. NOT alot, wheel still was easy to spin BUT more
rubbing than the passager side. Im I worrying too much?
Yes, I know what Eric is saying, and that WILL protect the Master Cylinder,
but it is a bad idea to clamp off (or kink) a brake line. They are VERY
high-pressure (i.e. 5000 Pounds Per Square Inch or so). If you weaken the
line, it may fail where you clamped it under that extreme pressure. Opening
the bleed screw is totally fine. Other than that, pushing the caliper in
slowly is a good idea, too.
smoke and a noise like your pads are warn out.
@EricTheCarGuy It seems some mechanics have ran into instances of the
pads(perhaps of inferior quality) leave deposits when the rotor is hot.
Some of those folks have said sometimes in such scenarios, the deposits
give a false positive of a rotor warping which can be ‘helped’ by braking
hard to encourage the deposits to leave, then seeing if the ‘wobbling’
remains present. I suppose its more of an issue with inferior pad
quality(thus more deposits from inferior pad material) on certain apps.
big o wanted $500 for new rotors and pads did it myself after watching your
video for $105 thanks!!
you only turn rotors when you replace the pads. usually you can only do
this once maybe twice during the life of the rotor. a rotor can only be
turned if there will be enough material left at or above the minimum
thickness required. that means when you take it to the shop, they will
measure the thickness 1st before recommending turning or not. turning can
save you a few bucks but if you can budget it, it’s recommended you just
replace them.
maybe alot of air entrapment throughout your vehicle’s brake system
There is no such thing as warped rotors, its a case where pad material
unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces – sometimes visible and more
often not.
great video eric . the front drivers side caliper on my 1990 honda crx
sticks alot should i just replace it with a reman? its very rusty .
1) Is it ok to use brake grease instead of other pastes you used 2) not
sure why you bleed brakes because when you push back the calliper piston
the brake fluid goes back to it’s reservoir.
Great video, really helped me out, thanks