1996 RL Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement -EricTheCarGuy

1996 RL Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement -EricTheCarGuy

Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ I get lots of requests to just do straight up repair videos like this all the time and I’m always happy when I can…

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Jeff H. says:

I have a 2005 Mustang and when I drive I hear a speed-dependent “whoop
whoop whoop” sound. Is that the wheel bearings?

Daniel Perry says:

Great start to this, as soon as you asked if we can hear an airplane sound
a damn f-16 took off. Now back to the video…

Xproject187 says:

Richard Petty said his biggest adversary on the track was “Heat,The Great
Destroyer” & I hypothesize it’s possible that repeated exposure to
prolonged heat is key in this instance. As such, I offer that even after
the bearing started moaning, it was still repeatedly exposed to extremely
high temps, resulting in its seizing to the spindle.
For instance, the owner probably drove the car at 60mph or higher for
20miles or longer, resulting in repeated prolonged exposure to extremely
high temps. However, I’d think that even a 20 mile trip at low speeds could
cause a faulty bearing to get hot & possibly seize its race, especially if
done repeatedly!

That being said, it’s my opinion that if one were to keep their speed under
40mph & drive just around town, they’d be ok for awhile, till they can
raise the $100. for the “Hub Assembly”, but even 20 mile trips @ 40mph is
more than enough to cause a bad bearing to get way too hot.

MrAdoh2010 says:

I don’t get the brake system on that car, does it have rear drums for the
hand brake and rear disk brakes for the brake pedal?

Donna Turner says:

I have a 1998 Acura rl and while driving it just shut down on me
The dash was still light up as normal and it cranks but doesn’t run
Can you help me please?

mysock351C says:

Cant believe they use BALL BEARINGS in those things. No wonder they always
go bad on Hondas. Hardly ever have to replace those in US cars since
they’re usually a proper set of sealed roller bearings in a cartridge. That
hub looks like it came off a Huffy.

Davon Dezurn says:

ok so i have a 2000 Acura RL and something metal is scraping on the drivers
rear side as i drive, it goes away as i speed up but as a let the car coast
you hear it and when i apply the brakes its sounds away worse. i am aware i
need pads on the back but i noticed the other rear wheel brake pads isnt as
worn as this one. im not sure if its the wheel bearing or something is up
with the pads or rotor

theoboldt007 says:

love your videos mate 🙂 Am a new mechanic, and looking at some of your
videos are really helpful for getting some tips! Thanks!

no name says:

That race got hot

cougar10ag says:

Lol every wheel bearing I’ve done I’ve had to cut the race off the spindle.

THATCRAZYGUY says:

when ever you hear an airplane in your car, that means your wheel bearing
is bad….lol

MrAdoh2010 says:

Nevermind, I figured it out “drum-in-disk” brakes. Guess they were too
cheap to make the hand brake mechanism in the piston caliper, or maybe it’s
more reliable this way because I remember having a leak from the hand brake
connection in the rear caliper of my 99 Acura CL.

JD Senior says:

Good video, very educational. Will be watching more if I have a problem.
Thanks

richie mack says:

need a video on ford f350 rear bearing and seal

Harold Holguin says:

Very helpful thank you!

brenton freeman says:

If you flip the rotor and bolt it to the hub just a few turns you can use
the rotor as a slid hammer. 

Nick says:

My driver side left wheel was squeaking like mad I noticed today. The
brakes are already done. Could it be the wheel bearings?

newtekie1 says:

Videos like these are what I like about watching Ericthecarguy. He doesn’t
just show best case scenarios, if things don’t go perfectly, he takes us
along on the adventure.

justinsvidz says:

You have the same 1/2″ gun that I do.

Autofanatic28 says:

What about changing front wheel bearing? similar method?

Samsgarden says:

Seems a bit superfluous.

ohtari says:

When I had trouble getting the hub off of my ford for a bearing
replacement, I bolted the wheel back on. You can then get under the car and
give the wheel a good kick to break the bearing free from the axle stub.
Hope it helps 🙂

Aggtown1 says:

Thanks for this vid I have a 98 TL with the same problem I will be doing my
own work now thanks again.

David Chau says:

“there’s a torque spec,……. I’ve never used it” hahaha love the brutal
honesty

2koolforyou88 says:

My 91 mitsubishi galant has over 253,522 miles on it never had big problems
with any kind of stuff like this

forgotmylogininfo says:

Possibly, but it’s reliable. my 2001 silverado is made the same way. I
don’t know if getting a disc brake style parking brake to work is difficult
or just more expensive.

ThatManitobaGuy says:

Safety glasses?! Hell no! Safety squint!

turtle2448thomas says:

idiot he has a 2000 Honda civic you are talking about a 2003 Mazda
completely different

playstation2bigs says:

yesterday i can’t view this video, it was blocked !!!!!!

February says:

I unstaked the nut with a flathead screwdriver, and used a long cheaterbar
to tighten it until the stakemark lined up with the cutout in the spindle,
and it worked great. I think I achieved the required 150 ft/lb… I only
had one bearing fail after 145k miles. Now if only I could do my timing
belt which is 45k miles overdue… :DD

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