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P0325 Knock Sensor Diagnosis – EricTheCarGuy
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Hi I have a 1999 acura rl 3.5, my cadillac converter was clogged, the guy
that was working on it, said he loosened something under the hood to help
the car until the Cadillac converter got cleaned out. Now that the
converter is cleaned, I can’t find the guy who worked on my car, MIA. So
that thing is still loose and is making a knocking noise. Does anybody know
what I’m talking about. Please help
Will those votlage numbers in the Test Procedure be the same on a different
car or would they be unique to each car?
Dielectric grease under the new one?
i have a 1996 subaru legacy 2.2 with 290,000 miles that has the same
problem. from a dead stop, my acceleration is dreadful. Long term, did
replacing the knock sensor work??? i already tried replacing my tpi and it
helped a little, but not much.
Mastergx1’s suggestion is valid….. I’m an engineer and a mechanic. You
could try an analog meter (the one with a needle), or do what I’m able to
do. I use an oscilloscope to see the output of the suspect knock sensor.
It is a crystal (piezo) device that generates an electrical output when
stressed mechanically. Some phono and microphone pickups use this tech. A
crystal pickup is high resistance…. 700K ohms is high and typical. By
connecting the scope probe to the sensor, you only need to tap it lightly
to see the scope trace dance in response. This way you are sure of the
initial fault, and the value of your repair. I’ve done this on the EJ22
engine.
Dude, great job on the video and not giving up and assuming it was fixed.
KNOCK
Hi, I have a 2004 kia rio and my engine light came on. I was told the code
was for my knock sensor. Do you know where this is located? I have looked
online and seen several different places. I’m not very car savvy so any
help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance
Hi car guys I have a 03 subaru forester dashboard brake light is on how can
I fix
I have a question about this topic but since i notice Eric isn’t answering
any ones questions, I’ll just hold my breath..
Maybe a test on the new sensor would have been helpful too before you put
it in…
I was wondering if you can figure out what’s wrong with my car when the
engine is cold the RPMs go up-and-down and when it warms up it stops but
then I turn the AC on the RPMs go up and down again when I turn the AC off
it’s normal again and also jerks when you’re driving it I put in a new
knock sensor/ throttle positioning/ sensor and a idol air control valve
hey Eric. i was wondering what kind of scan tool you would recommend. i am
on a budget and saw this actron cp 9575. would this do the same as the one
you have?
I have a question about this topic but since i notice Eric isn’t answering
any ones questions, I’ll just hold my breath..
Really like how you post your failures too..makes me feel like youre
genuine.
+EricTheCarGuy 1990 na vg30e to vg30dett Frankenstein motor, took about 12
months and allot of blood sweat and money but in the end it is well worth
it! thanks again for the free lessons brotha
A good multimeter will help in accurate measurement.
Was that multimeter you used in the right place to read high resistance
700k ohms because normally the beeper only works on low resistance test.
Common issue with the late 90’s EJ25 Subaru engines. My local parts dealers
wanted anywhere from $69-$144 for a replacement sensor. After reading
Subaru Blogs and found may successful installs of a $14 Ebay replacement
part, I thought what the heck. Installed the new sensor cleared the OBDII
code P0325 and wow no more engine shaking and no more “check engine light”.
Since floored at the price via ebay vs traditional parts retailers.The
knock sensor is not that complex and cost <$20 IMO. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the overview Eric. Are you sure your meter was set properly?
Just tested a new Nissan sensor and came out 568k.
+EricTheCarGuy its funny that “in essence” reasson you made this video (
to teach people the mindset of learning to trouble shoot items) is
something you actually had to you yourself in this video when im sure you
figures you were just doing another quick everyday test on a knock sensor
circut, simple enough lol.. life man its awesome how it can keep on our
toes, keeps things interesting. well enough babble thanks for making the
video ive learned a few different test methods from you which helped me fix
my TTz32. thanks man keep doing what your doing!!
Help. My daughters 1997 Nissan Pathfinder doesn’t have any codes. And my
father in law done something to the knock sensor. Why want codes show up or
can’t be find?
When re-bolting the Knock Sensor to the engine block, make DAMN sure you
don’t start the bolt in crooked and cross thread it, then force drive it in
wrecking the female threads in the engine block. It WILL ruin your whole
day (and the one next to it, ha ha).
One more thing i didn’t see Eric do, is to lube the bolt threads with oil
or anti-seize.
I have the same 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback SW… with only 109K miles on
it. Engine light is on. Does that car has a OBD II plug? I look under
the steering wheel column and I don’t seem to see any where I can plug in
the code scanner.
Chances are that multi-meter (as with most multi-meters) hasn’t got the
ability to test a resistance range as high as 700,000 Ohms. The test
current just won’t flow. For that you would probably have to use an
Insulation Resistance Tester. A typical multi-meter tests at 5 or 12 volts.
An insulation resistance tester however, can typically test at between 100
and 1000 volts – enough to overcome the resistance and complete the circuit
to get a reading. -HOWEVER- Testing electronics such as a knock sensor at
those voltages would probably ~FRY~ the part so resistance testing is a
dead end there. A voltage drop test is a good work-around as it gives you
an INDICATION of the resistance.
Hey Eric, good video. The original factory test would have worked to
diagnose the bad sensor as well. You essentially did the same test two
different ways. The knock sensor is not grounded through the block like
other sensors. The ground comes through the wire from the computer, so when
you disconnected the sensor, it was no longer grounded. When the service
manual stated to test the resistance to ground, it wanted you to test the
resistance through the sensor itself. You would use one prong for negative
and the other for positive and measure the resistance through the sensor. I
suspect, based on your voltage test, that the resistance would have been
very high and proved the sensor to be bad. The voltage drop test is more
comprehensive, but also slightly more time consuming. You could start with
the resistance test and if that proved the sensor to be bad you would know
to replace the sensor. If the resistance test was inconclusive you could
move on to the voltage test and get more answers.
we keep learning every day..
good work, videos like this saves time and money when looking for a problem.
and how to solve it
Great video. you were extremely informative. Detailed researcher!
I knew machines had brains! They stop messing up when there is a witness.
You sure timing is supposed to be retarted at IDLE? Or under load only…
There would be zero need to retard anything if there was a zero load
condition. Check your service manual for the proper knock sensor testing
procedures first.
Hello Sir,
I am your student and always trying to learn some thing from you and i am
thankful for that. Most of your videos you teach us are based on old models
while i am dealing with most of new model cars so please Sir try to teach
us on some new models too.
Thanks best regards.
whats the price range for this job ?