Installing aftermarket door lock actuator on G35 coupe Part 1

Installing aftermarket door lock actuator on G35 coupe Part 1

The door lock actuators on many G35’s are garbage. The dealer charges $150 for the oem actuator, plus $120/hr to install which can take 90 minutes! I sell th…

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Dustin Kineman says:

thank god i wiuld in a sheetmetal shop to make my own bracket

Dustin Kineman says:

this video helped me save hundreds of dollars.. thanks so much

Sunny Mann says:

Do you still sell the kit???

Cooper Gould says:

This would be due to improper wiring of your door pin.

pythonjosh says:

The cars I work on fit perfectly. There has never been a complaint about my work. If your’s don’t fit perfectly, you’re doing something wrong.

mike honcho says:

notice how he wont show you the part where the door panel wont go back on right.

Dustin Kineman says:

i just installed this, every time i open my door my alarm goes off.. plz help me out asap!

Patrick Nguyen says:

where’s part 2?


markj says:

Ignorant.. and you apparently didn’t even read the description, either.

Matt Torres says:

Thank you!

pythonjosh says:

They are not as I am out of town for a few months. Driver has deleted all of my threads about it except the tutorial thread. There are always actuators available, however you will need to make your own bracket to mount the new actuator. The measurements for the bracket are a 10″ bar, 1″ bent to 90 degrees on each end, making the actual width 8″. Drill holes for mounting screws and mounting the actuator using 5mm drill bit.

Matt Torres says:

Any word on if these kits are still sold

ruebear199 says:

hey pythonjosh – are you still selling these kits? the link below the video doesn’t seem to work anymore

fkobama1 says:

how cheap of infinity no to add factory door locks

jameswoodsist says:

fuck the shirt. thats a pretty knife.

cwizzy13 says:

I just got mine install and it works! Now I have an issue with the door handle on the outside not opening the door. I’m hoping that it’s the cable and not the actual door handle itself. What is with G35 and doors?? sheesh!

pythonjosh says:

I installed mine in May of 2010 and still running even without needing adjustment or re-tightening.

cwizzy13 says:

Eh no worries, I will just follow your video and I should be good to go. Have your actuators gone bad yet or you still have the same ones from your first install?

piddypaddyo says:

Hello, cwizzy. Sorry, I don’t have pics, I was hoping Joe Bishop would have some to share. I still have not done mine yet, although I have the actuators.

cwizzy13 says:

Hi were you able to send the pictures? I am going to install these actuators soon and would like to have a peek 🙂

ironkong26 says:

these things work on the v35 sedan?

phouthavong9 says:

What size wiring do you use for the extension?

DFKnightmare says:

That doesn’t look like a 10″ sub in the door. o_O

Andy Yu says:

Hi, I was wondering if you were still offering this service. I pmed you and replied on the forum, but no response…

synnikalTV says:

your g35driver thread is dead, how much for a kit?

piddypaddyo says:

Hello, Joe. Have you opened things back up yet, and if so, do you have some pictures you can share? Thanks for your suggestions.

pythonjosh says:

I’ve heard recent quotes of up to $1100 for the dealer to do both doors. For these manufacturer related problems. Like it’s OUR fault as the customer to foot that bill. I wouldn’t care if these $5 actuators died every year, the car would die before it would be not worth it. Of course, longer they last, the longer it’ll take to be not worth it.
Did you still have to cut the rod a bit to get it to fit? I think it’s like 10″ long and I cut it to 8″, but you may need up to 9″ for the bend. Wondering

Joe Bishop says:

Good points. I will be happy to send you some pictures when I open up my door panels, so you can see exactly how I did it. Thanks again for posting this video. Without it, I would have spent hundreds at the dealership having them put new JUNK actuators in, that would surely fail again in a few years. Cheers!

pythonjosh says:

My favorite comment. You just brightened up my day lol

pythonjosh says:

Sorry for the late response, but it sounds like your actuator is dead, and you should save some money and pick up a kit either from me, or from parts-express(dot)com and DIY. I’m here to help either way you choose.

pythonjosh says:

I’m actually thinking your method is optimal for these reasons.
1) the upper tab does not need to be removed, meaning less modification of parts, and if the owner goes and swaps the OEM actuator, some modification (or replacement) will not be needed for the door handle housing.
2) The clamp uses screws to secure to the rod and the lock cable. In 2 years they have not loosened up in my car, but it is theoretically possible. And for the ppl I send kits out to, could be a place of adjustment.

Joe Bishop says:

Yeah I got a pretty straight 90-degree hole in the part without popping it out, and haven’t had any trouble with either door. I may pop off the panels in the next couple weeks to have a look at it for any signs of wear, and I’ll get pictures at the same time. I think in the long run, the way you have it with the right size clamp is the correct way to do it, but I wasn’t able to track down the clamps at the time. Improvise 🙂 If there are signs of premature wear, I can always revert to clamps.

pythonjosh says:

Ohhhh I see now! You left the cable, and i’m assuming the plastic upper tab of the moving part that keeps the cable in that hole, and also your bent rod too.
That is awesome! I think I may give that a try next time I do another install. However, how did you get a good enough angle to drill another hole in the moving part? Did you pop it out?

Joe Bishop says:

I’m travelling so unfortunately I can’t get you a picture, but if I can describe: in the actual moving part of the door lock (the piece that is the actual moving part where you can manually lock/unlock the door inside the car), the OEM cable attaches to that with a hole; I drilled a hole right next to that one, just large enough for the pushrod diameter. the pushrod I bent the end a sharp 90-degrees, so that pushrod from the actuator attaches directly to the door lock piece.

pythonjosh says:

Great thinking! How did you connect that rod with the door lock cable?

Joe Bishop says:

Thanks for getting back to me. What I ended up doing was putting a hard 90-degree in the pushrod from the actuator, drilled a hole in the housing to pass through, and a hole for the pushrod in the moving part of the door lock, so I did not need to clamp it on to the existing pushrod. I did this about 4 months ago on both the drivers and passengers door locks, they are working flawlessly! Thanks for doing this video!

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