Removing Brake Rotor Screws That Won’t Come Out – EricTheCarGuy I think the title covers this one. Honda’s are famous for this so I made this little video to…
Removing Brake Rotor Screws That Won’t Come Out – EricTheCarGuy
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I’ve seen boobs at work strip out these screws using a 3/8ths” pneumatic
impact wrench and the socket for the hand held jobber. Then they don’t
understand why it stripped out!
thank you eric that little ending advice made my night. had a bad day and
then had even a worse day when i got home from school and tried to work on
my car
Heat them up with an acetylene torch!
eric thanks for the tip. I had the same problem on a import rotor.
finally got it off , but ruined the snap-on impact driver head.
If it doesn’t come loose in 2 hits it gets drilled out. only take 30
seconds with the right size (and type) drill bit. If you don’t abuse your
drill bits they will stay sharp for almost ever. I got a set from the
snap-on guy that goes to 1/2″ for $180. he says that if they ever get dull
put them in vise and break it off and i’ll get a new one (lifetime warranty
against breakage 3/16″ and up). granted i still use lube and go slow as to
not burn out the bits.
Man I have a VW GTI 2009 and it took a blow torch to get the rotor screw
off and a whole lot of hammering to get the rusted rotor off the hub. Best
part is that I have it on video o my channel. Sometimes this pars get
annoying but patience is all you need in order to get the job done.
1st, you could have “heated” it some,… 2nd,.. using a standard
screwdriver to hammer on is dumb! They make a tool which has flat or cross
tip bits, and when you hammer on the back it “turns” the tips at the same
time. It’s an inexpensive tool available at places like Harbor Freight.
get the bigger hammer, dude.
For god sake, i dont want nay car manutention technician to toutch in my
car.
and only use a JIS ( Japanese industrial standard ) driver eric, google it
JIS drivers, they are made for these screws. and that tool man that hates
you. he will have those JIS drivers on his tool truck, a (non) JIS every
day phillips head will SLIP off every time eric and your a teacher of ???
Great tip Eric. 🙂 another tip for these screws is to install the lug nuts
with backing washers. This helps to take pressure off the rotor to
screw-seal/pressure. Has worked for me 9 out of 10 times. 🙂 I lived in
the north all my life and rust sucks.Your method plus mine would work 10
out of 10 times :)
Hey Eric, so I should replace the screws if I destroy them getting them
out? What good are they anyway? Thanks. Great videos as always!
these screws has pissed me off so much…
i’m just glad my car doesn’t use them
better and faster method, if its stuck, drill the fucking head off and
never put the screw back in.
I just drill the head out if they don’t move and, if time permits, use some
kroil or PB Blaster to loosen it. Then just slot the shank with grinder and
remove. If theyre tight enough to fight the impact screw driver, then the
head always breaks off.
Those screws are the worst thing ever…like ever.
Where can I get those screws? What is the size of it? My rotor making
shaking noise and it was missing the screw
Thank you, Eric! This worked great for my ’07 Odyssey with 72k on it.
Cheers!
Have you ever used “Kroil”? If so what do you think about it. Enjoy your
videos.
heat to 300 degrees
nice…”have great day… you. if you are having a bad day, don’t worry
tomorrow willl be better”
When putting them back on, my wheel when it’s still jacked up, no longer
turns freely. Is that normal? If I loosen them just a touch, then the wheel
turns. Should they remain tight?
Just buy the Craftsman Impact Driver set (about 28 bucks). Heavy duty bits
come with it, and four whacks later I was unscrewing the damn screws with
no ill effects.
just use a heat
Lol this guy is too funny! I was laughing at the end. Thanks for the
helpful information!
Hi Eric.
When I replaced the 4 brake rotors on my ’03 Corolla, I didn’t use those
screws (wheren’t there on the old rotors). In my opinion they are not
necessary, because the wheel and wheelnuts keeps them in place. Smart or
stupid, what’s your opinion?
thanks Eric the car guy help me accomplish another tesk I couldnt do on my
own.impact driver took a minute to get used to,but boy was I relieved when
I saw one of those screws finally move.I’m sure the ball peen hammer
Shirley helped.been watching your videos for almost 3 years and you have
help me fix many Hondas.my new one is a 2003 Honda Element:)
After trying only the impact screwdriver for a while with no success on my
05 Accord, I found this and used the ball peen trick and it worked like a
charm. A couple whacks on each bolt was enough to loosen them for the
impact screwdriver. Thanks a million
I put a torch to them for a minute or so when they won’t come out. Heat
will break them EVERY TIME!
Eric, big fan. Try the Wivco “Shak-n-break” amazing tool my Snap On rep
gave me years ago. L8er
Use a cordless impact driver or cordless drill with torque settings on it
and they will come right out in seconds and you never risk screwing up the
screw heads.
Are you kidding me. Drill those fuckers out 1-2-3. The wheel and lug nut
hold it all together fine. Stop it, come on are you really serious.
i have one question why would any one want to reinstall a screw that serves
no purpose other than for a person putting the brake assembly together in
the factory also the after market parts guy giving you a funny look when he
can’t find them in his parts computer because the only place that has them
is the dealer at $10.00 a screw
yeah, I work as a journeyman mechanic, I just use heat, works better
you fucked the disc now drill thar screw
Do the screws need to be replaced? A little lapping compound on the tip of
the screwdriver will make it bite much better than dry with less chance of
rounding it out. Works well on allen bolts and regular bolt heads also.
Agree totally
Eric!! Your Sir are a Fool, No mechanic worth a pinch will EVER hit 2
hammer’s together, NEVER!! My method for this is :- 1 Drill centre out of
retaining screw (you going to have to replace it anyway) with about 3 mm
drill bit inject a little light oil or diesel, allow to sit for a time. 2
Impact the head with a soft drift to deform the head of the screw and shock
the thread. 3 Return in an hour and remove with regular screwdriver with a
couple of clouts with a soft mallet.
I have an older impact driver that, for the life of me, I can’t tell which
way to set it so it “impacts” (loosens) the screw the right way. How do you
tell?
You only need to hold the tool so that your pre-loading the socket or bit
in the direction you want. There are a series of internal ramps that will
transfer the inward blow of a mallet into rotative force when struck. Due
to blow and the internal ramp it shocks the screw or nut into letting go,
usually in the direction your loading or attempting to twist the tool. Only
ever use a Copper dead blow mallet or similar and NEVER a Hammer unless
there is no alternative.
Engineer. I do this day in and day out when things go wrong
Rumen is right, The Wheel Studs support the internal shoulders of the rotor
or drum and the only reason that screws are used is to retain the disk or
drum during assembly, they serve no other purpose. Why some so called
mechanics do the the bloody things up is beyond me. If you are
reassembeling – apply some “Never-seize” (COPPER ONLY) to the threads of
the retaining screw and lightly hand tighten them is ALL that is needed.
When you fit wheel and Nuts they hold everything tight.
PS. You could also soak the bolts in thin oil (WD40/Rusteze, Rust
prevention fluid such as SuperSHEILD by Peirce and Wilkinson is the best)