2006 Hummer H3 3.5 5cyl teardown – Part 8
In this “Autopsy to Pavement” installment, the new clutch goes on, and I complain a little about burning out my fuel injector pulsing tool, (which I DID repair). After getting ahead of myself and putting on the intake, I remembered that I still had to oil prime the engine, and pull the top back off to do so. Really anxious to get this engine back in…… But I have a little fun with it first!
I also messed up the audio a bit when pulling the manifold back off…. I tried to cut down the volume of the impact, but during a trim, the sound edits shifted on me @#%&?! (I have since also serviced the noisy impact) While applying the “comment trigger” the owner’s phone notification tone sounded, coincidentally at the same time, which was pretty funny…..
This is Part 8 of a Multipart Series on a 2006 Hummer H3 with a 5 cyl 3.5L engine and a 5 Speed Manual Transmission. This vehicle refused to start, several years earlier, and just sat where it is, ever since. Total story unknown, the owner reached out to me and asked if I could help figure out why it “wouldn’t turn over, even with a jump pack.” Upon my arrival, he informed me that they had “gotten it to move a bit after working it back and forth with a breaker bar.” (back AND forth is NEVER a good idea, as this can make timing components jump time. Either way, it still couldn’t be rotated more than 270° (degrees of rotation) without, what felt like, a very solid stop. After another hour or so, and removing the spark plugs for visual inspection of the valves, no interference could be found. Being that this engine is a TOTAL PAIN IN THE BACKSIDE to do anything on, while in the vehicle, we opted to pull it and tear it apart to find out why.
Follow along to see how this engine went from “Autopsy to Pavement”.
“You’ve got no more excuses… Pick up those wrenches!”
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Auto repairs for the “Do-it-yourself” mechanic… These “HOW-TO” videos, that help show viewers the details of what is involved in a specific repair… some do’s and don’ts, as well as a variety of tips to make the repair easier. Warning: Some videos may contain material that qualifies as “other than normally accepted”.
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I do most, if not all repairs, with tools that I carry around in my overloaded 1997 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. I perform “On-Site” braking and suspension repairs, amongst other diagnostics and services. My tools consist mostly of Craftsman, a few Stanley, Snap-On, Husky, Pittsburgh, and S&K tools. Scan tools include hand held Actrons, DVOMs, and test lights. I also currently use a Zurich ZR Pro, for advanced and bidirectional diagnostics as well as a Snap-On Verus Pro, for more detailed diagnostics. I’m always expanding my collection, based on need and convenience.
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I don't understand what this torque angle business is all about. Never had any bolts back off with the old fashioned torque values. I guess it's an excuse for the manufacturers to sell more hardware and tool trucks to sell more tools.
About time you put it together! Just changed my rear brakes. Changed one side a week ago. And didn't change the other side. It started leaking. It was a cylinder , was falling apart. Glad autozone had it ,20 bucks. Had no brakes after changing brakes and cylinder. Had to bleed those. But the air never stoped coming. Do you know why ? I was bleeding it for an hour. Brakes are okay. Thank you very much for your advice.